TroyBrock

Recently fixed a TORS delete that previous owner half did. Put the carbs back in, started first kick but after running for a while I shut it off to check if it would start back up first kick, no surprise to me, It didn't. compression is 113 both sides, spark plugs are golden brown like they should be. Any suggestions?

what part are you questioning?

Didn't mean it to sound aggressive. It definitely has a problem, I think it's just bad rings but I won't know until the end of fall when the snow starts to fall. Im picking up a new frame soon, a new swing arm cause my is bent. I'm gonna rebuild the top end in the old frame. Just to make sure everything runs before I put all the time into rebuilding it all on a new frame.

I'm not saying what you guys are saying is wrong I'm just stating what I see. It feels like it has a lack of power compared to the stock pipes. I'm jetted at 280, 400ft above sea level, 91 octane (ethanol free) 32:1 mix.

Tach is reading right at idle through mid just by me listening to it so I can't imagine it starts screwing up in the higher rpm, it reads about 10,500 - 11,000 when I feel it really kick and it breaks the tires loose. basically I'm just wondering if I'm gonna break something by letting it rev this high.

Well unless my tach is really messed up - which I don't think it is - I'm still making a lot of power up into the 11000 rpm area. Stock banshee, 280 main jet. And I took that useless boost bottle off of my banshee cause all it was doing was melting my gas line.

Just wondering what the top of the rpm range was with fmf fatties

I kinda figured it was something someone else had done to it. I've been looking at it closer and this banshee is all sorts of messed up. The frame is bent, the swing arm is bent, one of the J arms is bent. luckily I'm picking up a frame this weekend and I'll be starting the project of getting this Banshee to the way it should be.

I've had the reeds out because it was acting like it had a broken reed (turned out to be a bad tuned carb) and while i had then out I looked inside the cylinder, the intake side of the piston was clean, nice shiny metal and what I could see of the cylinder wall was also nice and clean. I'm not taking the head off until I rebuild the top end which will be in a few weeks, if it hasn't failed in 26 years I doubt another couple weeks is gonna do it.

I'll try to get some when I get home, I'm only looking down the spark plug hole so it might be hard to get a picture.

The top of the pistons are a patchy rust look. There is a local BansheeHQ member who is willing to help so I'll have some proper guidance as I go along.

I got it running, it was a half done TORS delete causing the problem. I adjusted the air screw and finally got it to stop sucking air through the exhaust. I still have no idea what that noise inside the motor is and yes I got 104 on both sides.

Compression is low (104) but that doesn't explain why one side isn't firing. Reed is fine, carbs were out of sync but syncing them didn't do anything. Pick up gap is fine. Tried a whole new ignition coil, nothing changed.

Bump

pm sent

Hey everyone. I've ran into alittle bit of a problem and I have no idea what it is. My banshee starts hard (low compression) I have to kick it several times until it wants to start and then I have hold the throttle open to get it started. Once it's started only the left side actually seems to be firing, it smokes like it should but the right side shows no signs of smoke and it doesn't seem to fire and it sometimes sounds like it is sucking air back through the exhaust. I don't think it is a piston problem but that's why I'm asking. Attached is a video to give you more of an idea of what I'm talking about. Stock 1987 banshee, moose racing slides and boost bottle.

how much for frame with a-arms and spindles?

It's an 87 and from the look of if, it hasn't been torn down in it's lifetime. I plan on doing a top end rebuild this winter but I want to get the most out of it before then.

Hello everyone, I recently ordered an adjustable timing plate for my bashee, I wanted to do the +4 advance that everyone says to do but I was wondering if my banshee can handle it. I have 105psi compression on the left and 103psi on the right and I'm currently running 91 octane with no ethanol with a 32:1 mix of supertechniplate. The engine is stock as far as I know.

Thanks, I appreciate the help

Thanks for the help guys

It was a bad ground for the coil pack. No one ever sanded the powder coat of the little prongs that hold it.

I was planning on doing a tear down of the top end this winter, and replacing whatever needs to be replaced, from what I can see looking down the spark plug holes the pistons are blackened but there is no major indications that anything is wrong with them.

Yeah it is, I straightened it alittle but there is only so much I can do. I got an OEM grab bar for it, you can really tell how bad it is when it's on. As far as I know it doesn't affect the performance of it.

I recently installed a trail tech vapor on my banshee. While I was installing the temperature gauge I noticed one of those billet cooler things already in my line, so I decided to remove this and place the gauge in it's place. I was wondering whether it was reading the temperature after being cooled by the radiator or before, it is on the line that runs from the bottom of the radiator to the inlet for the coolant pump.