Power_Man

bump. offers?

I bought it this winter and only just installed it. $12 Shipped image is for reference only, but they look identical.

can directly answer your questions about stator but, have you tested compression? what jets are you running?

Pm'd.

Will come with stock water pump impeller and plastic cover. Will need a new bearing, seal and gasket. Billet inset is powder coated. $50 shipped.

Nobody got anything?

It wouldn't hurt to get the oil burnt off for paint. For me, I go by: If the powder needs 350* bake. I'll pre-bake the part at 400* for 30min to an hour. Better safe than sorry. Powder is a bitch to get off, unless you have a really good chemical stripper.

I'm not a full time powder guy, but was told if you sandblast after baking, you strip down to new material and can cause opportunity for it to out-gas on your powder bake. thats why i suggested a bake after your second sandblast.

All aluminium needs to be pre baked. Especially if it has been in contacts with oil. May turn black after baked, sand blast again and bake again. It will "fish-eye" as the oil/air escape the metal.

Text me. 613-885-6737 I'm in Ontario and will trade your legs.

let me know what you got. shipped up to Canada.

can one buy this plug/oring and use it without modding a banshee engine?

Okay, I was going to make a list and check prices. Just didn't know if someone had a baseline table somewhere. I know at the end of the day demand tells all.

Well no, maybe not. But I'm just looking for a baseline. I also haven't seen a bone stock bike in a while.

just wondering if anyone has sat and made a list of potential value (BHQ market value) of a bone stock bike being parted out.

maybe in your neck of Ontario, over here i can ride roads for 10 minutes and jump on the old rail beds.

i wish you could. up here in Canada, nothing comes out of USA in two days, unless ya'll trying to come get some of our Canadian Bacon. thank you No, its not worth the risk, but if there is NO risk, then why not. Thanks for info guys

Rebuilding a motor, I had the cylinders on and ready to go and realized I needed to take back off. In the process I ripped the far corner of the gasket. Outside edge outside of the bolt. Not being cheap as I have no problem buying a $30 .012" gasket, how ever i don't want to wait 7-14 days for it to arrive in the mail up here in the north if it won't make a difference. Will that rip matter?

take your hub off the banshee, and the rims you want to run, take them to a machine center and have em re-drilled to match. they will have 8 holes, and can run on new hubs. i had a buddy do a set of rims for me. if they are a decent machine center they will be perfectly centered. EDIT: i just seen the picture and your post, they may not be re-drillable. sorry i didn't read further down first. nice build thus far.

chances of making that same bracket into a key relocation switch as well. kinda like a 2 in 1?

Okay, thanks for the info. I will try the removing shocks and see how low I want it and go from eye to eye then find the shock that best suits my needs

I want to lower it to ride the roads. I have lonestar +2+1 a-arms that I was going to run on it. The blocks that you mount to the lower a-arm won't work, or so I have read. Any other options out there? This will be just for the roads and no jumping.

If it ran good, i probably would not be rebuilding it. lol I think it had detonation. The reason i think it had that is because the motor vibrated at certain RPM/loads and it backed out on a WOT plug chop and started to seize the left cylinder. The timing was at +4 and i was running 94 octane fuel.

Cylinders are off being re-plated. Before i order new parts/gaskets i need to know how to attack this. The previous work order states that it had a .012 cub gasket with a .047 squish. Here are the details on it. 421 cub 24CC domes wiesco 573M06800 pistons 39 PWK shearer in-frames i guess what i need to know is, is that squish good? if i use a .012 gasket again will i get same squish. i want to get most out of this engine on 94OCT Pump gas, while still being safe.

When he jumped off the bike after it started shutting down on him, the left plug was loose. The guy was a neighbor and he was just in the middle of a plug chop run. He was about to hit the kill switch when it just started getting tight. For sure, I'm not sure why he didn't right after it happened, but he was pretty sure it was due to the one spark plug. After its all re-assembled i will make sure it passes will no drop in PSI. Thanks for all your input. I'll grab a couple pistons and do it right.