Pastrykiller

Holy shit....proof that we are smarter than the average bear. Glad it worked out for you.

I got 20.00 on the cool head. Honestly it takes 30 minutes to pull the motor. Another 30 to disassemble it (maybe longer if you don't have thumbs). Take the crank and have it welded. Your out a few hours of time and I think that's worth the cost of repairs if you separate it under a load.

The bright side of things...the theif showed you that it needed to be rebuilt and possibly rejetted. Sorry bout your luck but at least you got it back. I'm still looking for my motorcycle that was stolen. Them bastards were even kind enough to unload it off the trailer and just took the bike.

I bought that bike and expect delivery.

Possibly it hitting the clutch cover? Not enough clearance.

+4 timing is great for pump gas

Call Brandon at wildcard or Cameron at redline Both are top notch.

Don't read so much into it. This was the possible outcome with the t-5's. the cub should have cpi's or shearers and has been proven to be a good running bike with these pipe combos. It really has to do with the tuned length of the chamber. The t-5's have a shorter length that the cpi's and shearers and will cause heat to build up hotter at the exhaust port. Throw pump gas into the equation and you have a recipe for a possible meltdown. Domes also play a huge role in what a motor can do. There really isn't a wrong answer to your question. We have offered up some pretty decent and dyno proven info. Build it how you want to and report back how it turns out.

Heat and deep creep and patience

This gets my vote.

Stock length rod is 110mm. long rod is 115 mm for the 4mm. The 4mm stroker is simply the crank pin being moved 2mm on the crank webs. 2mm up and 2 mm down give you the 4mm stroker. the long rod used a different piston that has the piston pin relocated higher on the piston. the 110 rod uses a different type piston. 29l is the marking on the side of the stock rod. Aftermarket will read Y29l for stock length. hotrods stock length markings are ck 121 and ck 158 for the 115 length. Other brands will show g-115 and y29l/r. Do not get the l/r unless you want to buy new cases after your first run. Plenty of reviews on these. Side to side wiggle needs to be addressed and checked for proper tolerances. Any play up and down is a no brainer. Shits about to self destruct. Most would recommend the 115 long rod. Your stock cylinders with the corrected port timing for a 4mm crank is your best bet.

Power valves

I have a stock cub that pulled 86hp on race gas. 20cc domes. Shearer pipes and pwk35's. It was a stout motor but as all of the members have preached....it's good for a while and then u want more. I was told by a few members and builders that my original setup of t-5's and pump gas on the cub would contribute to high exhaust gas temps at the exhaust ports. This would ultimately result in a motor that would exhibit a lean condition regardless of what I changed. I know that sprinkler man has a ported serval so maybe he will chime in with his first hand knowledge. Cubs will give u light switch power. It's flat then u gotta hold the Fuck on. The serval "from what I hear" is smooth and plenty powerful on the power. Just not a desired drag motor for topend due to the flat 9500 rpm drop. Both motors are good for a specific application out of the box. Throw both in a builders hands and they can make magic happen. It's just hard to stretch higher rpms from a serval. A serval will run great on pump gas. A cub....not so great. Yes finch they will run but I had a huge increase in power when I went to race gas on the cub.

The serval falls flat around 9500 rpms. My cub will run between 10500 and 11500. No reason to discredit anyone's input.

Any site sponsor should be able to help you. I have my preferences and have used a lot of them over the last year. Talk to them and explain what you want and give them a budget. Chances are that you will get what you are looking for.

True statement but bottom end will be less than desirable with the cub on anything less than race gas. Been there done that. Great idea but will end up costing you more in another set of domes and pipes after you realize the downfall of a cub on pump gas. Get a serval and enjoy it with a port job. On the other hand, your goal for a non trail bike will defeat the purpose of a serval and a pump gas cub also defeats itself. So just do a 4 mil stocker with the port work you desire. Either way its your money and your time....

Www.sudco.com

L/r is the 5mm longer rod that snaps

29 l/r is the one to stay away from. 29l is stock yamaha Y29l is similar to the stockers Y29 l/r is the famous banana rods Correct me if I'm wrong.

Good oil but it wil leave a black coating on the bottom of you rings. Doesn't hurt anything....just a heads up

Bronze rods and he now has shearer pipes.

Une thru for shit be smuuuuuuve

If you buy the tto one, save some coin and contact Bay Area Powersports in Virginia. Not a site sponsor but its 42.00 shipped and make sure to get the 19mm size.

Picked up one thanks

Back the fuck off guys. This is mine and I bid 21.00 shipped.