hoppedupandcutdown

COULD HAVE BEEN RIDING A WEEK AGO

pics of mess, check the stinger and silencer too. Run a straightened metal clothes hanger in everywhere. Or put some misc. hardware in there and shake.

I still bet your exhaust has shit in it.

No, different screws

Someone in his feedback said that they peeled in a week and that they are copies. He does list the yellow ones as OEM, but I don't think that they ever came as a set, just individual.

Last year at this time, my group all stood around a fire under an EZ-up, as it rained all weekend. I drank beer, my shoes melted and water drizzled down the crack of my ass. I only started my Banshee to load it back in the trailer. And even that ride didn't suck.

triple check that your entire right exhaust system is cleaned out, no critter just stored 1 acorn.

It would be easier for us to just help you fix it.

Did you have both carbs apart at the same time when you put the cables on? Or one at a time?

The hose from the overflow tank goes up the steering stem and back down and dumps on your pipe. They are known to hold some liquid if you ride up and down steep hills, and drain when not expecting it. or just puke a little when it gets hot. Look for that hose and keep an eye on it and your fluid levels.

The banshee cases have a hole clear through the center, fuel should hit the ground, not pool up.

are your slides in the right carbs? look through the air filter side for the cut outs.

COUNTDOWN WIDGET

I just cleaned the contacts on a buddy's on/off switch last weekend, (on a YFZ450, same I think) it would shut off bouncing on the dunes,and when you wiggled it "just right"

Getting lost is half the fun. But yes, easy to figure out.

I ran both my Banshee's same place, same weekend, no problems. My purple bike has 280mains, K&N no lid, 21cc cool head, billet impeller, and just installed PT mids. I run 91 octane straight gas (no ethanol) from a trusted station, and my white one with the mods below. AND, my fuel was left over from Memorial Day, the 110 was bought from LSPS and the 91 from a local station on the way to our lake, so there is a high turn around on the premium fuel.

just find the loose end up by the radiator. As for pulling the cover, just have to drain oil and coolant, just no need to if you don't have leak from that area.

If you do have a leak, before you go to the trouble to remove the clutch side cover, just put the vent hoses in a glass of water and see if it bubbles. That will test the right crank seal.

It heat wasn't that bad, the park provided these cool down areas at the base of several dunes.

Just got home from LS. It was 105 degrees Saturday, but had a blast. Can't wait to go back in a week and a half.

that would be proper.

I prefer 50/50, that way you don't have to worry if your water has crap in it.

actually, that link always goes to fuel tank, it's under "side cover"... OR, go the auto parts store and get some black door edge guard, or CHROME door edge guard, oooh, or GOLD door edge guard...

I would think if it has given you this problem for years, it might be low on freon, but if it was leaking it would have certainly leaked out enough by now to keep the pressure switch from turning on the compressor clutch at all. therefor only blowing hot air and never cooling. try rinsing out the condenser coil in front of the radiator- very well, from the back forward. Might even run the a/c with water running on the condenser and see if that helps to blow cooler air inside. I've got a lot of Cottonwood trees in my yard and I pull my radiators to back flush my condensers every other year. Same as your home outside unit, that shit needs to be clean to cool properly.

The 2 wire plugs would have went to the TORS tops on the carbs, leave them also. try fresh spark plugs now that the box is unplugged, if they were wet.