hoppedupandcutdown

You can also take a piece of straight stock, about 1" by 6" and drill two holes in it corresponding to the two lower left screws in the side cover, then when the cover is off, bolt that piece on to mimic the spot on the side cover that usually hold the shift shaft in. That way you can shift it and see what is going on. Not running of course, and will need to be spinning the back tires.

Get a Clymers manual for a Banshee, money very well spent.

No need to split cases, all that is behind the clutch cover. Nothing that you put pressure on by holding the lever "in" touches the forks.

Thanks, look for wear grooves in both. Also for wobble in the shift shaft claw pivot. The shaft shouldn't move when you put pressure on it. If it does the shaft could be worn and the white bushing that holds it from sliding to the left, the cover has a bung on it that holds it from sliding to the right. All things to look at.

I would look first at the eccentric screw and the spring that rides on it then.

It's probably one of those things listed above inside the clutch cover, but first check that the shift lever is tight to the shaft and has good splines.

In from the top of frame (in order)- bearing, retainer nut, large seal. In from the bottom- small seal, bushing, washer, nut, cotter pin.

I've also had just old spark plugs do that.

My specs are below, I rode at 1500ft all summer, and never ran out of fuel at WOT (for as long as I cared to hold it there in the dunes) with a stock petcock and tee.

I use a cheap parts store vacuum gauge as it also has an easy to read 0-10 psi side.

and what Sandking said

make sure they close at the same time, lift at the same time and the dots are in the little windows in the sides of the carbs at the same time.

knob or large screw on top of TORS box under seat adjusts idle

It easy to get the cables twisted up when you pull a topend. make sure the slides drop completely at the same time or straighten out the cables. gas overflow is a sign of float adjustment or needle valves not sealing. black on slides is normal.

Well that should be a plenty, even without a fancy online calculator.

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/chainlength.html

spray it on, hose it off. But will leave it clean and white.

You should see if the guy you bought it from might still have a copy of the invoice from F.A.S.T. for the motor work, it will come in handy. Or at least give you a list from memory to give you a better idea of what you bought. You eventually will need to know.

I'd say you're due for a top end. The next time it doesn't want to kick start hot, try pouring a little premix oil in the spark plug holes. If it fires right up, its your rings. Or worse.

They will wear a notch in each other.

The biggest problem in helping to diagnose a problem, on here or anywhere.

Did I read somewhere that just bigger pilots fixed all the OP's problems?

might also check that the vent hole in the top of the slide isn't covered by the screwed on clip

I'll be there that weekend.