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wait you dont need all that shit. stock rods good to 120hp deadbeat numbnuts said

im sure that twister is made well. larger diam webs and plenty of material above the pin. for some reason i thought you would try and use stock case but that was a good choice with the matoons

Plenty of engines run the gap through the boost port. Nothing secret about it. Its a better way to do it imo

Dead beat you and n20 must be brothers as both of you put together dont even amount to a parts changer

today i called tdr to find out if their +7 cranks use the same diameter webs as the +4, which might also be the same diam web as a stocker. lady told me yes, but then again she might be clueless as she didnt seem very confident in heranswer. so ill likely pass on the tdr +7 crank, especially if its based on the stocker web diam. funny you should mention stepped pin. anybody thats been around the game for a while knows a step pin is a terrible idea and has risk of failure. tricked if you were planing a steped pin you may want to reconsider. if you one of the lucky few it wont shear in half but if it does youll probly have a big mess to clean up

the ports will be lower but the timing will remain the same with either piston because both pistons are using about the same deck height. .012 on one and .015 on the other

What size piston you plan to use ? Theres probly 5 or 6 choices in 72mm with 18mm pin. Not sure all the options in a smaller size

i dont know anything of the 120 rod. is it a common rod with the same pin diameters on both ends as the 115 ? you could probly look up its dimensions and compare that to the 115 then you would know if youll need any special machining of parts or different width thrust washer and bearing. ive mixed and matched oddball rods to different crankshafts and its like a puzzle to figure out how to make it work

almost looks like a superior sleeve that someone welded on. gots one hell of a reed spacer

millenium plate and american machining is thumbs up in my book but i was just wondering about any other differences. i know some people talked crap on the athena, people that likely never used them. not trying to start a pissing match but figured maybe there was some internal updates not easily seen in the photos

Just looking for a real answer. Besides what I can tell from the photos (inlet looks taller) what sets these apart from athenas ?

Hey doosh go back to the handle bar changing thread

Are these just a slightly tweaked athena or what ? Alittle info what what we're getting for $375 would be good

Anybody with half a ounce of engine experience knows moving the pin 5mm further out on a oem crank is a foolish idea. Gravel whats your excuse ?

What I should have said was: if a person knows how to do it then it wouldnt be a bad idea. Its obvious you and n2o wouldnt even know where to begin

steel basket aint that bad of a idea really

something ive never agreed with is how all the +4 cranks are put together and likely most of the bigger cranks as well. the circumference on the big end of the rod is cut down. this is done purely so any joe blow with vice grips and a hammer can install his own crank and be running again by the end of the day. because the bearing bore has lost some of its strength to maintan a round hole at high rpm it can egg shape and then the bearing skids on the pin. i use uncut rods and trench the cases alittle as this doesnt compromise the rod

thats a weak argument. if your rod crumbles under alittle or even a fair amount of detonation then you may want to source a new manufacturer. thats the problem with the powersports industry today. alot of the products are pure junk with crap materials and poor design but everyones in it for a buck so why not have it brought in from china with your company name. sell it for dirt cheap, make alot of money, who cares if you have to warranty some catastrophic explosions, youll still be well ahead as youve already made a mountain of cash, or hell just make a disclaimer on the product box so your free of any liability.... this is what most companies in this industry do. for fuck sakes some outfits cant even manage to drill the stud holes in the right place. unless the piston is actually contacting the head, blaming the end user is hardly a legitimate excuse for a broken rod anybody involved with automobile racing knows the amount of money and technology that goes into designing conrods for race cars. unfortunatly the atv industry doesnt make a pimple on a flys ass in comparison and as a result we get stuck with alot of poorly designed junk

Why should something have to break ? To me that only suggests the material was inferior or the design was not up to the task.

I dont know anything about the g115 or who makes them Nearly every failure ive ever seen was at the rod. Blame it on the assembler, the tuner, the neighbor, the dog. Blame it on whatever you want. A good rod shouldnt break

i cant keep track of this shit no more. tdr is selling no name cranks. ebay is full of no name cranks. wsm site shows 3 different rods. 2 of which are hotrods and the 3rd is wsm brand which is gold. dont know if its 110 or 115 but its this one. maybe its not king rod but its impossible to say who makes it http://www.ebay.com/itm/WSM-Yamaha-350-Banshee-1987-2006-Connecting-Rod-Kit-ATV-45-520-/201316450758?hash=item2edf6541c6&vxp=mtr

i plan to get a set of LED and ill bet he asks alot more questions than most pipe makers which is normall just window height and compression ratio then try to use the same pipe on 10 different engines

i think those are kingrods. aka wang. theyre being sold on ebay by that guy sstarparts or whatever the hell his name is. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/180897-warning-to-vendors-using-ebay/page-1 http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BANSHEE-YFZ350-2-SET-CONNECTING-ROD-SET-115mm-/250783531903?hash=item3a63dd037f&vxp=mtr at $92 for a pair i would say theyre junk. pretty sure i seen the wsm cranks with those same rods but i might be wrong. either way i wouldnt get within a 100mi of em

Transfers in the low 120's ?

On the +4 cilinders do you know approx what the timings would be with 65MM bore ? Something fairly low would be prefered. At bdc is the piston edge flush with all the trans floors ?