salmon_slayer06

Old thread here I know, but is it okay to use the MSD boots even though it doesn't have the built in resistor? I'm about to put a new coil on with these boots.

mix 1 part acetone and 1 part trans fluid together and soak the area you are trying to work on with it. Shouldn't have to let it soak for more than 5 minutes and it should do wonders. I'm thinking of replacing my swinger bearings also.

I been able to fix the threads on the swing arm bolt using a file. It was a triangle shaped file.

welcome

Tricked carbines list does work for that. Helped me out on stator problem. Stator has two sets of coils on it. I believe one is for lights and such, other is for spark. Mine I could see the spark coils went bad. Think it got too hot and failed. Lights worked when I kicked it over. A cheap multimeter from Lowes, home depot or menards shouldn't cost more than 20 bucks.

Are the plugs dry even when holding WOT? When starting a cold motor I turn gas on, twist open throttle couple times, slowly kick motor over about 5-6 times, maybe twist throttle once more, use the choke and kick over with no throttle. Starts on first kick. Really if pilot jetting is on the fat side, it will start without choke. But if pilot jetting is on the lean side it will not start very easy when its cold and will stall easy. Compression is there, plugs are dry, has spark.... not enough fuel.

thanks for the info. I think I'll have to get new tires for next season. Do you run any kind of nerf bar or wider pegs? I'm looking at getting some wider pegs also.

What tires did you find to your liking? How did you improve roll and brakes?

The longer swinger will hurt performance on the trail. They do make high end rear swingers made for long travel but do not extend the length by much. I been tweaking mine for 3 years now and biggest things were correct jetting to have throttle crispness, new stage three dual rate elkas and lots of power. You don't want too much traction just enough but some slide to whip around the turns. I'm thinking of getting some bead locks because of how hard I ran it last trip I could see a possible tire problem when its gets technical. I think it runs good, but I'll be damned if there wasn't a 4 stroke dirtbike trying to pass me.

sucks screw broke off. I would center punch it as mentioned but make sure you help support that part of the case so it doesn't flex when you start hammering the punch. i would go get a quality drill bit and drill a tiny hole first and work your way up in sizes. I would helicoil it and use some red loctite to keep the coil in place. Sure the hole might be off centered a bit but I don't think it will affect anything. Use some oil when drilling and tapping. Good luck. Build looks good.

I don't know what size but I just go to my local powersports and get the NGK plug boots. They are on a 45 degree angle and they just screw onto the wire. They have a resistance built into them not sure what it is, says on the boot though. Guys seem to prefer the MSD boots but I have had no issues. They do seem to get a little loose after you take them off a few times. I do have the MSD boots and will try them next season.

I would get it because its cheaper than buying a new OEM one. If still deciding get a hold of MotorCityATV for an used OEM replacement. Should be much cheaper than buying a new one and they will have it. I've gone up there to get a replcement part in a pinch and got what I needed and saved time and money.

go on photobucket and upload it to that and post the link to the picture.

Porting, and proper jetting are a must. Carbs might be too much. That might be a problem even with my build.

If you were to get a hold of the administrators on here or some of the site sponsors with your questions you will be pointed into the right direction. A banshee transmission is a fairly simple design but there are a few parts that need to be within spec and be replaced whenever a tear down is done. Even a stock tranny with good parts will perform just fine. When in doubt or getting the run around just send the tranny in to one of the experts on here.

I'm one of the few that run the Bel-Ray MC-1 synthetic 50:1. Seems most stay away from this oil but I don't know why. Its probably the most expensive to get and hard to find and that could be why. I buy it by the case. I don't ride but a couple weekends out of the year so a case and maybe a couple extra bottles goes through an entire season.

I can't add much, sounds like you are already headed in a good direction. I don't know if Elka is still having that sale on the stage 3's but I would look into getting those before it ends. I would let FAST do the porting on the cylinders and get a NOSS cool head. I have a J arm banshee set up for the trails. Its just a good running 4 mil trail dune port motor with the Elkas as mentioned with a stock swinger, longer J arms. I had to clean the cylinder up this past summer from a lean issue and I'm on my last bore size. Its fast. But when a pack of 450 dirt bikes are in the mix I can't hang. Those damn things are the fastest machines on the trails. I did all the trans mods for easier shifting. I'm happy with the outcome. Its looking like I'll be needing some new turf tamers come next year though.

I have a good trail banshee. I love it. Its getting faster and faster every time I ride it. I'm very happy with it right now. New 4 mill ported motor on a Jarm banshee with wider arms and Elka Stage 3 shocks. I can't hang with the 450 dirt bikes though. Even the new 450 quads are hard to hang with on the trails I ride. Take your time. Ask lots of questions.

correct jetting is the cheapest and biggest improvement that can be done to these. If its off you can ruin the motor. You'll be needing some special tools in order to rebuild it than....

You want to look at getting a clymers manual. Things to look at maintaining or replacing: the shift cable, throttle cable, chain, sprockets, axle bearings, swing arm bearings, chain slides, front wheel bearings, control arm bushings, check tie rod ends, leaking/bent shocks, missing screws/ bolts, air filter, carb adjustments, replace clutch plates, leaking seals, swing arm linkage seals and bushings/bearings You'll need some must have tools..... axle nut wrench set, fly wheel puller..... gotta have it, impact wrench, clutch holder tool, 3/8 drive torque wrench, 1/2" drive torque wrench, big sockets forgot what size, carb synch tool, ball joint tool...... you can possibly make one look in manual.... I did it works great.

The 88-89 banshees have what they call a J arm front suspension set up. The bottom arm is an A arm. This banshee frame is a few pounds lighter than the A arm banshee frames. I own a J arm banshee with an aftermarket J arm set up. Its nice but would be easier to find suspension parts if you buy the A arm style banshee frame. Biggest thing would be to buy the one with a straight frame. I bought a j arm because it was close to my house and it started right up. Plus it came with extras. I like the A arm banshee and the yamaha blue plastics seal the deal. I consider mine unique and I've only seen one like mine in the red and gray plastics.

This is the place to ask questions about problems that may arise when owning this machine. just use the search function in the forum.

I know this is an old post but did a search on this "O ring" for cranks. The o ring ripped on the left cylinder side of crank and bound up inside the port that leads to that side. At first I thought this was my air leak issue. Glad to see that this shouldn't be the leak. I will rebuild the motor and use the loctite method. Question is do I take all the rings off and use the loctite on all of them or just the side that ripped? Any ideas? How hard is it to split the cases after using the loctite on those? Thanks a bunch, I will sleep better tonight knowing that those are not that critical....

Stock cylinder ported with 4 mil crank. All the power comes from the porting. A good port job will run about 500. Pull the stock crank and have it trued and welded. Have it sent in with cylinders. That will be a long lasting reliable trail bike. Night and day difference. If you don't want any down time, get a hold of some used cylinders, have them ported and bored. Just be sure to go through a site sponsor.

I would install new rings and c-clips. just make sure to install them back into the same cylinder that they came out of. Make sure that the cylinders were rehoned.