salmon_slayer06

Its not the coil, plug wires, or boots. The switches were checked with multimeter as well as the coil. Kill switch has been bypassed while back and no tors. So that leaves me with checking flywheel, test stator, swap CDI and unwrapping wire harness. When it died it didn't hesitate or backfire it just quit and that was it.

thanks for the help. When I bypass the ignition should I do it before the connector where its on the main harness or after the connector where its going to the switch?

Went up north for a weekend of riding and after about a 4 hour ride, I came back to truck to top off the tank, switch out the trail tires for the paddles and adjust chain slack. I got that all done and knew it was good to let the motor cool down for another good ride. Well went for a test ride to check that chain wasn't binding and what not. Things looked good so I headed back to truck to lock up the tools and get ready to leave. When I completed the turn the bike just quit. Strange I thought. Right away I knew something was wrong. Cracked the fuel cap open, checked plug caps, turned the on off switch a few times and tried to start. Nothing. Pushed back to truck stripped all the plastic and began diagnostic. I have no spark. Motor gave no warning. I jumped the leads going to switch and tried that. I took off the jumpers and tried that. Checked for spark that way. Checked plugs put new ones in. Made sure fuel was getting to motor. By pulling off fuel line from petcock. Took off the stator cover and noticed a bit of condensation in there. I sealed the cover from the last time I had it off by using some RTV. Don't know if it will affect the stator or not. I had set gap on pick up to spec. I never had this problem before..... oh obviously motor kicks over. My thoughts are this.... pull flywheel to see if key sheared, test coil test stator swap coil out with extra one I have here at home I'm going to get a digital mutlimeter today to help trace problem. I also suspect wire could have came loose from pin or something in connector. Any help is appreciated.

I ride in sand with areas that are like a silt and sand mix. The silt dust has gotten by the UNI every time even after I was sure it was cleaned and oiled well. I spray the intake walls with the K&N oil and it captures any dust so that I can tell if the filter is doing its job. Just a clean paper towel will tell all.

For what its worth I'll never run an Uni or any other type of foam filter on any of my machines. I am a K&N believer as long as they are oiled and are wearing an outwears. I will not run an K&N without the outerwear unless I'm out on the ice. I think the K&N capture the fine dust particles better than the UNI or foam filters. I spray the intakes with the K&N oil and the air box as well. This is coming from someone who has built a few fourstokes and one banshee.

If it runs and the frame isn't bent I'd say go for it.

4 mill crank, port cyl., 93 octane rated head, some pwk carbs, t5 pipes, boyesen reeds or the Vforce ones, adjustable timing plate, some trans mods that can be done on own if you have access to bridgeport.... I bought my reaming cutters or reaming bits off Ebay and didn't cost me much but have a machinist cut the dogs on the gears look on forum for threads on this, rebuild the clutch. Might like a +2 front end, replace the sprockets and chain, get some new slides, replace the axle bearings, swingarm bearings, rear linkage bearings, put new front hub bearings in, and last but not least I'd get some new shocks the stage 3 elkas are on sale but the Race tech GS3's are better cause you get the hi and low speed dampening on the fronts and get rebound adjust also. The elkas are hi speed compression dampening no rebound adjustment but are still 10x better than stock...... I'd say this is in the 3k-4k range. And this will be a run of the mill banshees on any dune but will be a blast to ride. Good trail set up.

I have heard of the cooler method. I won't be surprised if you drop 100 bucks to properly ship this motor. Might get lucky another way but would hate to have a nicely built motor come back looking like the one above.

Bought 2, pay pal sent. Said I'd get some....

I would buy 10 if they were hi vis safety green.

For what its worth I run Bel Ray MC-1 50:1. And I run the Bel Ray gear saver in the trans. I believe most of the better gear oils are semi synthetic but not 100% synthetic as this can cause a typical clutch to slip. I'm not familiar with the locking clutch set ups. I was always told to run the standard non synthetic oils when you are breaking in an engine. I just ordered a case of 12 16ounce Bel Ray MC-1 for 115 bucks.

St. Helen. Well I parked in St. Helen but rode from there to Roscommon and than to Denton Creek area. Trails were great. I'm thinking about checking out Bull Gap. Its hard to beat St. Helens trails though. The city takes care of them a few times every year.

I seen a guy yesterday that had a newer stock banshee that had a 2 into 1 exhaust on it. I talked to him for a bit and he claims its better than the typical exhaust setup on most banshees. He made a few rips up a hill and we even raced once. He beat me. He had paddles I didn't. He was talking about how if he went to a single carb it would also contribute to more horsepower. I haven't seen much talk on here about the single pipe deal or the single carb deal. Well besides that my banshee was freakn amazing on the trails. The elkas were adjusted so my frame clearance was 8.5" in the front and 8.25" in the rear. The rebound on the rear was set at factory and the compression damping was set in the middle. The wider Jarm setup handled very nice. Well its running like it should be, handling is very good......the trail bike is complete. Nothing broke, shifted great. OH BTW, I drove that guys banshee. The exhaust did have a good sound to it. But what I was noticing is that how the trans was shifting. The mods I did to mine vs what a stock banshee had was a big difference.

+4 crank......400$ Port cylinders.... 400-500$ carbs......400$ head....200 pistons...... 200-300 replace clutch.... longer a arms..... 500-700$ elka stage 3's...... 1500$ longer swinger +4..... 600-800? paddles and smoothies.......600$ adjustable timing plate...... 80$ v force reeds.....200 Trans mods.... ? Don't know what it runs but would have someone else do it I'd say this is a mild build but well within the 5k range.

nothing worse than running out of oil on a trip. I did once and went to the local powersports and bought the yamalube they had. I mixed 50:1 with that and she ran very lean. Could have been a coincidence but the clutch went out on that first tank. Speaking of yamalube anybody run it? Whats a good mixture? This is just in case it happens again? 24:1?

50:1 bel ray. make sure you get that little extra out of the container with a little gas.

I recommend getting an air hammer. I modify the attachments to punch out bolts, bearings and whatever. It has saved me time, less force on parts to avoid bending or ruining the parts finsh and makes it a whole lot easier. Its an absolute must. Best 25 bucks I ever spent. Works like majic. Picture using a hammer but pounding it like 100 times in like a split second but much less force.

I installed the pivot works hub bearings. I did the conversion kit install...... http://www.pivotworks.com/ProductInfo.aspx?item_id=4513

I didn't think they were going to work either. I haven't driven it yet so I'm not certain if that is the best routing. I'm worried they could get pinched in the shock but some shock socks should prevent that from happening.

fireballs j arm kits are nice. Look at the brake line thread. I put some pics on there of my brake line routing and those arms are in there. I would get them because the ball joints are easy to replace and there are more adjustments that you can make as far as camber and what not.

Get some sand paper and sand the inside of the bore out.

The carb rubs on mine also. I have stock cylinders. Let me know what intakes will work to clear this and still be able to use stock air box....

You might be better off getting a package from one of these sponsors. IT WILL BE CHEAPER than piecing it together,

I did a dune/ play port done by farm and sand toys. I would go with them again. I did get my original cylinders back.