salmon_slayer06

Port the cylinders or get serval ported cylinders. I have 4 mill serval dune/play port. Have all mods done minus cut gears and lock up. I trail ride in sand. Took me a while to jet it correctly. Not just pulling the main I'm talking needle, pilot and pilot screw. I need to get bigger pipes to unleash the full power of the servals. Should be faster. I mean how fast do you want to go. ill get the pipes and switch to billet intakes so the bigger carbs are easier to mount and clear the shifter arm. Good luck and be sure to change out fuel peacock. You will seize motor on long runs.

Fast probably has cylinders done already where it will be a swap so no waiting.......

If you didn't get the crank I would hold off. The power isn't in the crank size unless you get into the bigger ones requiring case trenching. Spend the money and have the cylinders ported. Put on a cool head and 93 octane domes. Get a good set of forged Pistons and replace the idler bushing while at it. Dial in the jetting and spend the money on some decent suspension upgrades. Stock cranks should be trued and welded but the convenience of getting a 4 mil done already is probably why so many just get it.

I would avoid long pulls with that fuel valve. I would rejet again after you replaced it with the pingel. Nice pipes what are these again... In frame snipers?

Could be bit rich in the needle as this is where the throttle is most of the time.

Fast

My advice would be to have proper pilot and needle setting on carbs. Set pilot air screw correctly and should be between 1 1/2 to 3 turns out any more or less pilot jet needs to be different size. Leave timing stock setting. Not sure if it possible to gain more low end if you retard the timing. I'm currently riding a serval but still have the t5s on it. jetting is a constant battle as its cool one weekend 100 degrees and humid the next. A good stator, Cdi and coil do make a difference imo. i have mine set up with stock swing arm with longer j and a arms. I like it for being a weekend rider. Looking to build a cr500af for the trails up where I ride as the flat landers and there 30000 dollar side by sides are destroying the trails.

Bel ray mc1 50:1 with pump gas I get it from rmatv for about 7 a bottle

Might want to check out motor city Atv for replacement parts such as flywheel, stator, Cdi and coil as these are very expensive new and aftermarket is cheap knock offs.

It's always intimidating the 1st time. One thing for sure, make sure to clean and relube all the bearings in the motor. Order new ones if in doubt cause lots of stress get put on these. Imo the banshee motor is a very easy one to work on. Lots of potential in these engines hope you one day get to enjoy it...

New clutch discs and springs I like the ebc one, idler bushing upgrade, new c clip for idler gear, new pancake bearing, new clutch cable, and clean up grooves in clutch housing.

I have them and no problems. Much better than the stock bearing. Get them. Don't over tighten just snug to wear wheel will spin freely and maybe back off quarter turn.

Got it dialed in. 58 pilot, 170 main needle in the middle. Very happy with the power. Put roughly 30 hours on it and 20-30 gallons of fuel. Tire wear is definitely an issue now.

the least you can do is hone the cylinder walls and wash them very good. Install the same Pistons with new rings. After the top end do a leak down test to see if the crank seals are still good. Sometimes the intake boots are prone to leaks. Not good will lean it out if seals are bad. Good luck.

Don't know what needles. Will check on that also.

Yes stock air box no lid. Stock boots. It's a tight fit. I'm just afraid of leaning it too much. 58 sounds good. I'll be double checking carb size when I take it apart later today. Shooting to have it dialed in for the weekend.

Changing jets is a 1-2 hour ordeal. Try doing it at the trail head parking lot with guys ripping by on quads and dirt bikes.

1 1/2 turns out. I'm going back to my original jet set up after I installed the new motor which is 62 pilot, 172 main needle in middle and do a plug chop. it seemed to run decent than but that is on cement not loose sand.

I'm not sure if they are 30 or 35. I tried playing with the jetting today. I do have v 4s also. Currently I have a 68 pilot 160 main with needle maxed out so its richer. Couldn't get a 65 pilot. 160 main I think is too lean. Taking it home to do a plug chop and go from there.

421 serval dune/play port 4 mm crank t5s Keihn carbs. Pingel fuel valve + 4 timing. 70 degree temps riding at 1200 foot elevation noss cool head 93 octane domes. I started at 170 main 62 pilot needle in middle and that was at lower elevation and 30-40 degree temps. Came up north higher elevation and 70-80 degrees now. Changed jets to 62 pilot main is at 162 needle in middle. I also tried 58 pilot and 168 main but was fouling the plugs but seemed to be lean at 1/4 throttle with a hesitation when into the throttle. Doing another day of tuning I don't want to ruin the motor. I don't have any way of plug chopping just going by the color of the ceramic that I can see. Should I be ball park with 62/162 needle in middle?

You won't see too many dune port jobs for less than 400. You'll be spending 800 or more for the whole job including honeing, pistons and chamfering

That's very nice as is. Some will pay more for that than a modded one.

Many have been down this road. A good leak down test is a must. Make sure you check again before you put the pipe and carbs on.

Check to see if white/black wire off Cdi is not grounding and make sure red/black wire off Cdi is grounded.

I forgot to mention replace clutch. Ebc is fine... Replace clutch cable too and may as well do the shift star and the trick shift mod..