salmon_slayer06

Tusk axles do the job. Axle nut not the greatest. Use pvc pipe slid over axle to snap clip into groove. I give it 8-10.

You want the gap as close as possible without touching the raised tabs on flywheel. Check grounds. After a long ride I check plugs once cooled down some, I use that electrical contact cleaner and spray out plug boots as black residue builds up, and twist boots on just a little tighter to assure good connection. Could it possibly be a faulty cdi? Try getting a used one for backup anyway. Something wrong with reeds?

You will have to drain coolant. It's messy you don't want it to stay on anything painted. Just have hose nearby and rinse any painted surfaces... upgrading to the stainless Alan bolts make removing clutch cover easier. Take a philips and use a mallet and tap each screw to help break them loose. The impact will help break them loose.

I would try going up one size on the pilot jet. Doing this will help the bike start easier when it's cold. However you may need to adjust air screw after this but it should start easier.. this jet is overlooked by many as it's what is used most in riding trails or just staying out of the wide open throttle. That in conjunction with needle but needle will not affect how it starts but I might be wrong I'm sure others will have more answers. Good luck

I tried the exhaust wrap and not the best choice if in contact with anything. The fibers are very delicate and wear easily. So I ended up getting some 1" high temp silicone tubing same as used for exhaust joint clamp and slid only enough to cover up where it touched the air pod... like 5" or so. Worked good. Rewired bike and started first kick. Rode over weekend and jetting dead on. If it had been cooler like 40 degrees instead of the 50-60 I would have jumped up one on main. Instant throttle response. Replaced rear hangers with the chariot ones and happy with those. Lots of fun on fast trails. Up here in the north the snowmobile trails are orv trails in summer. Man does it drink more than ever.

For what it's worth I have a 4mm serval ported for trail riding and dunes and it has the t5's on it. I am very happy with them. Is spending another 600-700 for another set of pipes than experimenting a weekend or two on jetting and what not going to be worth it? Might be. Seems to be a lot of hype with toomey being the lesser favored pipe on here. I wouldn't mind getting a set of good used shearers in frames small or big bore. Just got back from the trails tonight and wow is all I can say. I can't believe how much of a difference air pods made. Went up two pilot sizes and one on main and nailed it first try. 62/170

You are going to have to take clutch cover off and adjust it at the clutch itself. Inside there is a adjustment and the clutch arm on top of case needs to be in a certain spot. If you take clutch apart there is a rod that actuates the clutch arm and a ball is used as a bearing. It can fall out and go missing if not paying attention. This has been known to weld from intense heat from friction. Upgrade to pancake bearing if you can...

I went a season on a DID chain. It was the best one the Powersports place by me carried. I replaced the front sprocket after two seasons and was worn. Replaced the rear but looked okay. I put a new chain on from rk but the DID still looked good maybe 2-3 mm overall stretch but that's on a stock swingarm. I have no idea what horsepower guessing with some new mods safe to say at least 55. I did use the chain wax generously even though it gets on everything. What a pain in the ass to clean up. Heard mx guys claim the non o ring chain accepts lubricants easier and last longer but may require more maintenance. Wd 40 is all they used.. Like I said I soaked the chain pretty good and it helped a lot with chain wear but payed for it from chain sling. Black gritty grime from hell. That so called no sling chain wax is bs. If someone has a better alternative to that stuff let me know. I might try that non oring chain and wd 40.

The intakes are from fast not sure who makes them. Billet aluminum no crossover tube... angled for carb clearance so it's not resting on clutch arm shaft...

I have the angled k and n filters. The opening on these do seem a bit big but the clamp closes them up nicely. I haven't worked on it since the weekend. Going to finish up probably this weekend. I been using the search function for more info on air pods and can't seem to find much info. Did see some pictures that looked like guys were using the exhaust wrap on the stingers where they come through the frame. I guess the exhaust wrap would be best option. I like how the bike is looking cleaner with air box removed. Removed the box tabs as well. Looking to redo harness and relocate cdi behind tank next..

I'll have to double check carb size. I'll get those part numbers later today.

Did the swing arm bearings on the banshee this weekend. I had no trouble in replacing these and these were off an 89 j arm. I went with the pivot works bearing kit. Came with new bearings, spacer, side caps seals. I ordered new oem bolt and nut and washers. 1. Remove swing arm bolt. I used an air hammer and cut the end of one of the chisel tips so it's a flat end. When you remove the nut on the swinger bolt simply tap out this bolt with a couple raps of the impact hammer. Works like a charm. 2. To remove the bearings... I used the swinger bolt and nut as a tool. I rounded the corners on the swing arm bolts nut. The nut was threaded back onto the swing arm bolt. Than I used the nut as I type of ram to knock out the bearing. Set swinger on a couple 2x4's and use air hammer with same cut off tip attachment to knock out the bearings. I did spray some pb blaster down in there to help. This method worked flawlessly. Absolutely incredible how nice it went. Trust me. No damage. 3. To install new bearings I used one of the old side caps as a installation tool. Placed bearing on end of swinger, placed cap on top and used impact to knock the new bearing in. Go around in criss cross pattern to go in evenly. Wow so nice. Just a few raps and goes in. Completed the install with generous amounts of grease and checked axle bearings. Job went well. Figure I'd share since I've heard horror stories on these.. no sledge hammer used here. the swing arm bolt even used for removing bearings was useable. But I installed a new one anyway. The bearings came out undamaged... hard to believe I know.

This weekend I finally got around to installing some new long awaited parts for the banshee. Did the swinger bearings, bigger radiator and converted to air pods. I ordered the bigger intakes for the keihn carbs I'm using. It's nice not having to force anything into place. After mounting one carb and fitting one of the pods I checked for exhaust clearance. Well the stinger pipe looks like it's going to be touching the filter and outerwear. That's my first problem. Second is how much play should I have once the carb and filter is installed. I don't like how it moves and imo could possibly fall off or cause the intake boot to rip or crack. Is there a bracket or a way some guys are supporting the carb and filter after the intake?

I was able to take apart my rear shock but was unable to locate replacement parts. Drilling the tiny hole went as planned and was able to take apart. But wound up just getting the 1000 dollar Elkas. Not good but not bad. Nice to know if I want to rebuild these I can get parts..... moose and all balls makes a seal kit... but finding the replacement clips that get ruined during disassembly is what made me go aftermarket. I was going to let a dealer recharge the nitrogen ....

I'm on my 3rd stator. They were all used oem. I ride for extended hours and it's a serval motor. I have gone through two motors one was original motor rod bearing went, second was leaned it out on some new reeds I put in. Lived and learned now it's bullet proof. The biggest complaints I have are the fuel mileage, the stators going bad. I was getting closer to wanting to buy a yfz450r but the money to fun ratio didn't seem to be worth it. A new one is 9000 plus 2000 for pipe, intake, and the programmer just to get it out of the stock 38 hp. Up in northern Michigan is where I ride and only see a handful of banshees. Some of the trails go through sections of thick sand hills that curve and climb on a steep angle. So much fun to let that 70 hp just show it's true colors and the smile that I have. I would hate to spend 500-600 for a new oem stator but that's what it might take to get a guaranteed 5 years of riding out of it. Buying them used is a gamble how much longer they will last... diaelectric grease should only be used to prevent water or voltage from leaking out of connection. I would not get any on the actual copper itself as it is an insulator...some do allow some conductance from what I read on here. ..... may want to clean that off and see if that helps some... also a high resistance to your plugs will hurt the cdi I believe.. some guys on here have sooo much knowledge on these things

The dielectric grease is good to use inside the spark plug boots and on the ceramic tower on sparkplug. Do not apply it to the conductor. A toothpick does wonders or a small screwdriver for spreading it around inside the boot. I have worked on LT1 trans ams and it has saved me grief using this stuff correctly. I also believe a light coat of antiseize on threads is beneficial but that's just me. For doing up harnesses a butt splice that is filled with no ox ... it's a compound we use on electrical splices and connections where it prevents corrosion. Crimp the buttsplice slide shrink tube over everything and when it shrinks a little no ox will ooze out and that my friends is better than a soldered connection imo. Another tid bit of info dielectric grease used around your car door seals will make them last longer, plus it won't freeze shut .

If rejetting only use keihn or mikuni jets. The float is adjustable and there is a spec it needs to be at. Over time the float valve might get a groove in the point... just get one made by mikuni or keihn.

Take a string wrap it around the machine level with the hub center on wheels. Square it off the back wheels to where the string just touches the front of the rear wheel. I tie string to jack stands and raise or lower to needed height. You should have a slight gap at the front wheels unless you have a narrow axle. You can adjust the front toe with this method. Use the string to measure off. You'll also find out quick how bad the frame is tweaked. As far as camber use a carpenter square. Use footpegs to keep handle bars straight with ratchet strap. It's what I do I'm sure others have better ways.

If you take the clutch basket out you will see grooves made by the clutch plate teeth. Go get a good file and square these back up or smooth them out. On the other clutch piece it may also have grooveing in it and you will need a good file to get in there and take those out. It will take some time and it makes a difference imo. Or buy a new anodized basket that helps prevent that from happening. The shift drum rides on one bearing on right side. The left side doesn't have one. I installed the closest size roller bearing to fit that and turned the drum in lathe to fit the bearing. Than I installed a couple bearings for the shift shaft to ride on as it originally has bushing. Pro shift mod helps and adjustment is good...

Don't sweat it call ray from motor city atv he has used working oem stators. I live by him and it's saved me a weekend or two.

I'd get two stators as you'll want an extra one for big weekends.

Get a hold of a used oem one from ray at motor city Atv and don't listen to what these guys say about him. Never had any issues he carries coils stators cdi's, way better than any aftermarket options.

Yup wanting something done quick means you better get another quad one that is already to go. Let this one take as long as it needs too. I'd be shooting for 4 th of July weekend....

mays issue of dirt wheels has a banshee in it that an old timer uses for desert races. On his bike it's still a stock frame but the front shock mounts were raised one inch and the rear shock mount was raised also. The lower shock mount bolts to some sort of block that deletes the dog bone. It was custom made no good pics in magazine to show this. Beadlocks, tire blocks, fasst flex bars, raised seat, bigger tank, lone star arms, Hinson clutch basket. Would be a good bike to duplicate for us trail riders. Since the 250r/outlaw frames are hard to come by now.

New oem replacement was 170-200 dollars more. Not that I was actually going to buy one of those. Looked at what fast had to offer and didn't see anything. Rocky Mountain had a radiator that was 300 something but never heard of it. Toomey I thought was the best one out there? But hard to find now from some old threads I read. Glad to see the EBay radiators work for everyone.