Zwiser

The white "bushing" is just a spacer so that the assembly does not rub together, Also you should see a tab coming off the spring and you have to line that up into the notch in the crankcase to reinstall, I would recommend that you pick yourself up a clymers manual. Also measure the bore in a crisscross pattern with a bore gauge or calipers top and bottom and subtract the differences and match them up with the specs in the manual. If there aren't any scratches on the cylinder wall deeper than .1-.4 mm and your bore size is within spec I would just do a light hone to deglaze and clean up a little. then if your pistons aren't damaged just re ring it. And your kicker might just be bound up on something make sure you install it correctly and see if it still stuck

Does it idle in neutral? Did you try check to see if your clutch cable is to loose?

A arm ball joints aren't replaceable. Are you sure that you a arm joints are bad? Really if you only have steering slop its probably just the tie rod ends... you can pick just the ends up for under $30 and you might as well replace them steering stem bearing while your down there its about $12

Sheenieqwa...

http://www.cpindinc.com/pub/part_list?manufacturer=3

And to the OP 4 mil means that the crank has a 4 millimeter longer stroke then a stock crank and then its the same concept for 7, 10, 14, 18, 20 mils. also youll hear people say 4 mil long rod, that means that the rod is 115mm long a "regular" rod would be 110mm people say the the shorter rod delivers faster revs and the long rod creates less stress on the piston IMHO when I go 4 mil itll be a long rod.

You are wrong... the serval looks the same as a cub on the outside, your thinking of wampus cylinders that look like stockers.

Post pics up of the carbs and we can help you out more.

How much for those renthals?

The tie rods from tusk that are the honda style are worth the money and you wont bend a rod.

Howd your crossover tube fall off?

how much for the skid plate and air box lid

If it has a boost bottle get rid of it, and for the carbs you have a easier time tuning and get more performance out of pwk 28s in most cases, if your on a budget get the okos off ebay. Its also recommended that you get a billet water pump impeller and a pancake bearing and when your in there you might as well get a steel idler gear bushing from fast. check out the sponsors for your parts. You should do a compression test on the motor and get a leak down tester somebody on here sells them or you can make your own, also buy a clymers manual. And you should learn how to use the sites search feature for your more simpler questions. Welcome to BHQ :

pm sent...

Im helping my buddy getting his new banshee up and running right and were replacing bearings and going over things and such so I checked the jetting and the mains are 280 and pilots are 30s This banshee is all stock except for boyseen reed cages and no air box lid with a stock filter. So I told him to get some 25 pilots and 230-250 mains does this sound about right? Also the plugs are black and wet, it still revved out cleanly and idle. there was a small air leak on the reed cage, and there is no hidden porting.

Sold.......

Pm sent...

HI, Im selling a set of K&N 4 inch pods with outer wears. I know they fit on pwk 28s, but I know nothing more about them... You can see the measurement in the pics to see if they will work for you. Asking $20 + shipping and paypal fees, and if you want ill get you some clamps too.

How do you get more "chrome looking" than that?

Kenda Kutters! I do the same riding you do and never pop a tire or get stuck, and they dont wear out fast on roads either

Your powerband must have bent and hit the piston skirts. its quite common once you go over 100 mph

how long are those shocks do you know?

Pull out $1500 cash and see what he does

just start it up pull in the clutch put it in first gear then, ride it

I had some works dual rate blaster shocks laying around and I figured that theyd be better than stock banshee shocks so I put them on and ran them for a couple months, but since there blaster shock it makes my shee have a really soft front end and it sits lower and I dont like that. So if I bought some yfz 450 shocks would it be better than the blaster shocks? Im using stock a arms I weigh 220lbs and ride really rocky trails and ride road the rest of the time.