hnb

on your lights -- green is for low and yellow is for high out at the lights --- there is a sitcky in the repairs and mods section with a wiring diagram for this --

thank for the information --- found the two front nuts closest to the exhaust port pon both side somewhat loose -- retorqued all down properly to 20 ft/lbs according to the manual ---- will run again this weekend and recheck again after a cooldown period -- THANKS AGAIN -- will let you alll know how it turns out

would like to know what they sound like first and not on a stock banshee

I did not build my banshee motor first of all -- it was supposedly they way it is when I bought the bike last year -- the reciepts that came with it shows it is what it said it is --- I even called the guys who put the engine together (supposedly a reputable shop) -- anyway still working some bugs out of it -- a lot of frame bushings/bearings ---(swingarm, a-arms, etc....) but the question is I have developed a coolant leak right around the right cylinder bolt -- the front one that is right above the exhaust pipe--- according to my reasearch if I pull the head off then I need to replace the head gasket -- frist quuestion coluld I get by by rechecking the bolts that tighten down the head (retorque) or should I pull the head and make sure the gasket did not crack-----second question --if I pull the head do I need to replace the lower jug gaskets as well --- and can I buy just a stroker head gasket --- trying to save up money to buy a better head and gasket assembly sooner or later---- --- just trying to get by for the rest of the year till the winter weather comes back. I know it is not a hard job to do but I am also a cheap ass sometimes ---- this motor only has about 3 hours on it and I now that have got it running right have only put about 30 minutes on it and it hasn't been out of 3rd gear yet -- keep finding stupid little problems from someone elses "basket case" project. but I will admit this thing does have a lot of balls when you're getting on it -- just looking for some easy information. --- I don't post a lot because most problems I can figure out myself -- but it has been almost 20 years since I have been fiddle -f-ing with a banshee -- so the modded upgrades are somewhat new to me ---- Thanks any help is appreciated

if the center bolt that holds your clutch handle on the bars is comming loose and the shifter/clutch handle is floppy --- it is time to bu a new handle and bracket holder assembly --- check FAST SPONSOR for an easy pull clutch handle assembly -- I like the one that I got from him

Sun baked plastic -- sun faded --- happens to automotive paint also when you pull decals or striping off -- but paint can be sanded or buffed out unlike colered plastics.

I can agree that my garage is my own time --- but on that note she uses my garage too --- best thing is that she can hold her own when it comes to fixing thing also so I don't get the can you stop and come over and give me a hand bit unless it is something that can be a real pain in the ass but then usually I end up starting and finishing that project myself --- but that is only because of the difference in the knowledge between us. I think it is great that she can hold her own and fix her own bikes. that way when it breaks it is not my fault unless I was riding it at the time --- So if any of you out there find a woman llike that they are worth their weight in gold and more. My garage is her garage because she knows her way around it and has the same passsion for motorized vehicles/sports/racing/anything with gas or alcohol. Whether drinking it or burning it. She is same woman that was doing burnouts and donuts on an electric scooter in the snow.

if everything looks ok I am wondering if you don't have a balance issue due to something out of balance -- aka like a flywheel "weight"??? clutch basket out of balance ??? --- I do know that car engine are real bad for a vibration when a harmonic balancer goes bad or a flywheel looses a weight ---- my dodge had a weighted flywheel and when it lost the weight I thought that the motor came apart

I lost a motor mount bolt/bolts on one side in the front one time ( can't remember which side ) but anyway that made a terrible clatter/rattle sound about mid throttle and on a deceleration under load because the cse was banging against the frame --- just food for thought ---- check all you motor mount bolts and make sure they are tight

Sorry I couldn't resist with YODA sitting in the corner -- but would like more pictures

Mabye a couple of better pictures would help due the trick to the answer -- unless Yoda in the corner knows

they are 10mmheads which makes a 6mm X 1.0 thread pitch about 15mm to 25mm long -- most hardware stores carry them -- take out a front plastic bolt by the headlights and go match it up ---------- this is the easiest way and the quickest to replace the bolts -- 12mm head bolts are 10mm threads ------------- I have replaced all of mine with button head stainless with allen sockets so they don't rust -- try that first

I just got done putting new stinger seals and head seals for the toomey exhaust on mine and I do not have one that sticks out any farther on one side than the other --- but I ahve seen others that way you are describing -- and have put a little extra bend in the sitnger pipe for clearance to change the length (AKA shorthen) and seemend to clear the frame on that side a little better -- just food for thought

mabye time to pull the carbs and clean them possibly pulgged air bleeds and main jets

you already have it apart for one piston -- so use both of the same pistons from your buddy's engine since he got new ones -- weight problem solved that simple

York Pa is just west of Lancaster Pa -- I have family out that way -- will call them an give them the information maybe they can track the person down --- give me a couple of days before i send a message to you -- unless your check clears first

I had aproblem with this type of tire popping off with low air pressure in the trails but they do work awesome. try getting some beadlock tire cement --- it is in a can and goes on the rim before the tire is seated -- looks black like tar and has the thickness of unset jello pudding -- use this all the time especially on front tires and when drag racing cars -- the tire will not even slip on the rims under higher HP launches at a rece track/dragstrip -- just food fo thought if you keep popping beads

that was cool man f-ing nuts if you ask me but it gets the point across ---

inside the transmission? noisey?? or the clutch slipping??? or the sprockets and chain -------need a little more info

we ride in wellsville ohio a lot ---- What the hell are you doing that you keep getting flt tires?? and how far are you riding out of camp --- also it dosen't sound like you are staying on the designated trails -- I know that is not always fun but don't get caught by a park ranger especially when you don't have a recreation tag on your bike -- we got banned from there for a season for blazing our own trails and no recreation tags

there is a banshee in alliance, ohio for 1500 -- I went and looked at it -- it runs ok but has sat for a while -- probably will need the carbs gone through and minor other stuff -- startedd right up and doesn't sound bad but who knows??? -- but then again this is around 450miles from where you are in philly pa

before you try and get them powdered -- why not paint them black with high temp ceramic engine enamel paint --- that way if you still have a problem you can at least soak them in paint thinner and not hurt the chrome when you remove the paint -- if your theory works and you don't get bothered by the cops then get them powered -- they have to etch the metal first to help the powder stick and this would remove the paint before they are powered --- the shop I work in gets painted things powered when ready for final stage of finish -- a lot harder to go back from powdered to original

I had the same problem but my misfire went away when I would rev up the bike --- thought about a plugs wire bad so swaped left to right then the misfire went to the left side -- changed plug wiires and the misfire went totally away and now it seems to be more responsive -- now to finish the front suspension

get any pics and mabye hub stud dimensions