Starwriter

X2 on bad ground. It's using the high beam filament and circuitry for ground.

The Lincoln Banshee ad got updated. It now goes 222 MPH. LMAO!!! http://jonesboro.craigslist.org/snw/4605147977.html

Did you put the outer bearing race pins in the notches in the front of the lower case half? Are the crank wheels rubbing on the sides of the cases? Is it a trued and welded crank? If not it could be separated. Are the cases a matched set? Look on the back edge. There should be engraved letters/numbers on both halves. Make sure they match.

So, we're still curious. How much did you end up having to pay those crooks to get your shit back? And is the motor completely disassembled and packed in boxes? And what did they say when you told them you just wanted your bike back?

Cut em. There are lots more things that affect value. The more unstock it is, the higher the value. Banshees will never fall into the category of a 1968 Shelby GT500KR convertible.

There's nothing wrong with J arm bikes. It's just that they have a lower resale value because of the perceived weakness. Since they are older, there is a greater chance that every bearing, bushing, and seal in it is shot. Of coarse, even a 10 year old Banshee can be totally thrashed and neglected. Almost every ATV I have bought has had WAY more money in aftermarket parts than the purchase price. Some of them 4 times the purchase price in aftermarket parts. Start adding up wheels, tires, pipes, roundhouse swingarm, aftermarket axle, braided stainless brake lines, billet basket, cool head, VForce reeds, PWK carbs, K&N filters, billet goodies, and you blow right past $2500. That doesn't even get you into A arms, shocks, etc. Suit yourself. You'll soon find out how expensive this hobby is. I would much rather buy someone elses money pit because they need money to put a roof on their house.

I'm in the minority here, but I say, part it, sell it, whatever, and get your money back out of it. Then spend somewhere between $1700 and $2200 and get a running, titled, A arm Banshee, with $1500 to $2500 worth of aftermarket parts. The way you're going, you're going to have about $1500 into an all stock J arm Banshee and then need to spend another $1000 to $1500 to make it decent. Pipes, wheels, tires, billet basket, etc., etc.

Exactly how much is your budget? I'm gonna guess it's not enough to get it running.

If I were doing it, I would fab a jig mounted to the foot peg holes, upper shock mount, front and rear mounts for the rear fender, before you cut the stock subframe off. (Assuming that the stock subframe isn't bent) Then use the jig to locate the new subframe and weld it up.

So, are you saying that if you let it sit there with the engine not running but the key on, and you turn the key off, it makes a few clicks? If so, that doesn't make sense. Are you sure it's a Banshee? Has somebody wired in a Battery?

On top of everything mentioned above, they haven't made VF2 for many years. I would find it very hard to believe that a shop just happens to have a set of brand new VF2 reeds just laying around. So, you probably got a USED set of reeds for $500.

I thought this was BS, but I thought maybe... Did some googling on the subject. Although some people claim this to work, people working in the alcohol industry and people with chemistry knowledge will disagree. "It won't work. Alcohol is hygroscopic and it's molecules intermix with water molecules and the two can't not be separated with a filter. If you mix one part alcohol with one part water you don't get two parts you get something less. Alcohol being hygroscopic absorbs water from the air and a filter will not remove it. The only way to effectively remove water from an alcohol is to distill it."

Definitely a stock Banshee frame with headlight mounts and a few other useless mounts cut off. It looks like it might be an 87-90 J arm frame that's been converted to A arms. The A arms are aftermarket. Too bad ones bent. Probably not going to be able to buy just 1. Front plastic is aftermarket. Probably Maier. Those pipes may not fit a stock A arm frame.

What we've got here is failure to communicate. The cover over the clutch is called a clutch cover. Not a case. The cases are the main engine part that splits top and bottom.

Yeow, good thing that got straightened out. People expect to receive exactly what is pictured. If someone had bought that setup, without asking any more questions thinking that some dumb noob didn't know what he had, they would be pissed when they were a victim of bait and switch.

As tempting as it is to just buy this smoking deal, my conscience won't let me. Those are straight cut gears. You need to be asking more money. Better pics of the basket fingers and crank gear and posting the gear ratio will get you more money.

No rubber spacer there. There are 4 rubber bumpers on the bottom of the pan. 2 tall ones in the back and 2 short ones in the front. I am betting that the pan is also U shaped from side to side, raising the rubber bumpers and lowering the middle. The back lower edge should be straight across. I bet it's not. I seriously doubt that the sun is going to do it. Like I mentioned, heat gun, patience and luck or a new seat.

You will probably find that the seat pan is all warped out of shape. You may be able to fix it by reshaping the pan with a heat gun and puting on a new cover, but it's going to take a lot of patience and luck. I would just buy another seat.

http://www.riderplanet-usa.com/atv/trails/california_map.htm

Here's another one in Oregon, if anyone's interested. http://eugene.craigslist.org/snw/4587216258.html

Also worth mentioning. See that white plastic roller, just below the big red circle? Since you have an Amp link, someone may or may not have removed that roller. Your aftermarket chain slide goes there. Some chain slides do not require removing the swingarm to install. However, if it is the stock swingarm, there is a pressed on steel sleeve on the swingarm that must be removed. You could grind away the roller and sleeve without removing the swingarm, but it would be better to just remove the swingarm, inspect the swingarm bearings, remove the steel sleeve, install the chain slide, and grease the bearings and the swingarm bolt. Hopefully the swingarm bolt isn't already rusted in. In case you haven't figured it out, the lower roller goes below the chain and the upper roller goes above the chain.

Here's a thread where a guy made his own. The OP posted a link to a pic that looks like yours. The last post says they look like DG. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=156266

Apparently you missed the part in ALL CAPS. "PLEASE DO NOT REPLY DIRECTLY TO THIS EMAIL" Where the fuck did you think it was going to go when you sent it to [email protected]?

Lowes, Home Depot, your stock front bumper rubber caps. Aw fuck, forget it. Why do I even bother?

Just checking in on this thread and HOLY FUCK, those are some stupid high prices. Thinking maybe it's a NZ dollar vs. US dollar thing, I looked up the conversion rate. $1 NZ = $.85 US. Makes the prices minutely better, but still ridiculous. Buy that motor from Windy, bolt it in and ride. Have it shipped with carbs, and throttle cable and I'll bet it will be already jetted and carbs synced. Even a 5th grader could swap a Banshee motor. As long as you don't forget to put coolant and oil in it, there's really not much of a way to fuck up.