Starwriter

If you needed one for an FMF pipe, you might be able to find one, since there are zillions of FMF pipes out there, but the chances of someone just having one laying around for a Shearer are really slim. Probably gonna have to buy it from Shearer.

No, wrong side of the reeds. You need pulses for a pump to work. Not gonna get that from the intakes.

I thought I remembered seeing something like that outta Canada, eh? Pretty cool, dontcha know, eh? Thanks. Bookmarked.

You're gonna need to be a little more specific. Stock or aftermarket? The stock one is captive on the pipe. The only way to get it off is to cut the pipe. Aftermarket ones are a separate piece, but there are lots of different ones. Toomey, CPI, and FMF are all different from each other, and there's probably more.

Wrong side of the reeds for a fuel pump.

You use the right front. I'm not sure if the left front will work. You have to use the rear brake caliper mounting plate. I'm pretty sure you use the front caliper slide pins. It mounts right onto a regular brake stay. The bleeder screw doesn't end up quite at the top, so you have to get it to the top to bleed. Either pick the bike way up in the air or bleed with it off the bike and something stuffed in between the pads. I've never actually used one, but here is one I bolted up to see how it looked. Someday I'll send one to the polisher and then get it mounted. In my opinion, it looks real clean.

But you didn't tell him not to use a 2 jaw puller. LOL. Could have bought a flywheel puller at most any Yamaha, Honda, or Kawasaki motorcycle dealer for $15.

What a dumbass. There went a $100 flywheel. For a little bit there, I thought there was hope for this guy. Nope.

Looks good! That's the shit. I wouldn't call owning anything Trinity, "lucky". LOL. So, what's the word on the leakdown test?

Yes, that's the gauge setup you want. It already has the tire valve stem. There's no need to be doing any drilling, gluing, etc. Get 1 of these type of reducer bushings. The kind that's supposed to be glued into a fitting. Find the one that fits your intakes. Then get threaded adapter bushings to adapt that gauge set up. seal everything with silicone sealer or teflon tape. Plug the other intake with the same type of PVC fitting. For the exhaust, use your stock Banshee front bumper rubber end caps or buy 2 of these type caps at the hardware store. Here's the type of pump I use Soon trickedcarbine, soon. LOL

At the hardware store, get the gauge for pressure testing natural gas lines.

To eliminate the kill switch, just unplug it. How EXACTLY did you bypass the key switch? Start reading here. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650

Carb slides swapped? On stock Banshee carbs, if you swap them side for side, the slide cutaway ends up towards the motor. The cutaway needs to be towards the air filter(s).

Sucktion? 1. The right piston is fucked. 2. A motor with good pistons will still have compression, even with a silver dollar sized hole in the cases or bad reeds. 3. You aren't too sure how a 2 stroke really works. 4. Performing a leakdown test will a. Possibly give you a clue why the right piston failed. b. Let you know if the crank seals are leaking, so that can be fixed at the same time you are doing a new topend. What do you do, that your "customer" brought their Banshee to you?

A leakdown test has nothing to do with compression.

Wait! Stop! Do a leakdown test before you pull the head.

This sounds like Facebook. I'm at the emergency room Oh no, what happened? Are you OK? I hope it's not serious! Did you drive yourself there? I fell out of a tree Did you break anything? Were you peeping through the 16 year old girls bedroom window? I think it's broken Your arm? Your leg? Your neck? I hope you can still post on Facebook with a cast

You want 10 degree so you can angle them to the right.

Why are you turning it with a drill? Why not start it and see what happens?

Cool. Glad you got it sorted out. By starting at 280 and then dropping back to 270, you know for sure that you're not on the ragged edge of a meltdown. Now you also know what too rich on the main feels like. Good job!

I have no idea what you are trying to say.

Have a safe ride. I applaud you on all your patience through this. Even though at times it didn't seem like you were very patient, you struggled, read, got jumped on, read some more, asked some more questions, and made your way through it. Many people would have given up in one way or another. Sold it, burned it, or taken it to a dealer. By working through this, you have gained considerable knowledge it tuning. Now, go have fun. Just remember, never, ever, just "go for 1 more ride". If someone says, "Hey, we're going for 1 more ride. Wanna go with us?". That's your que to just pack it up and call it a day. It's always on that "1 more ride", that you crash really bad and get seriously hurt. So, you just ride and ride and ride, and then call it a day.

Exactly! That was my 1st thought after reading the very 1st post. If the OP would have done a leakdown test on this brand new motor, the leak would have been found and cylinders sent back to Flotek. Flotek would have said, "Sorry, we'll take care of it". Then put repaired/replaced cylinders on, leakdown test, and no bent rod.

No. Do a leakdown test before you pull it apart. If the crank seals are leaking and you rebuild the topend and put it together and then do a leakdown test, and find leaky seals, then you have to tear it all back apart again. It's possible that an air leak caused your problems. You need to find out if that is the case.