Starwriter

If I were you, I would take both axles to a machine shop and have them put them in the lathe between centers and run a dial indicator on them. Then you know for sure what you have.

This one is pretty cool. I would change a few things, but there's definitely lots of aftermarket goodies. http://wilmington.craigslist.org/snd/4636785271.html

There's lots of mods in there that are worth doing. Just a matter of how much money you are willing to spend. Billet clutch basket, pancake bearing, shift shaft mod, shift star mod, ball bearing detent roller (Commonly called Shift Pro. Do not use the Shift Pro spring. Mull sells just the bearing and bolt), steel kicker idler gear bushing, billet water pump gear, billet water pump impeller. Measure the thickness of your clutch fibers. If they are in spec, run them.

Broken eccentric bolt.

Waaaaaaay too much money!!! It's only worth $2,000 on a good day. Personally, I wouldn't give $1,000 for it. Not enough aftermarket goodies. See my posts above.

You just need a flat plate with 2 holes in it and a piece of rubber innertube.

These people are pretty proud of their stuff and claim that they work on AC or DC. http://www.hotgrips.com/faq.php

And you noticed that they're unsilenced, right?

Just don't buy the hardware store bolts that have the goofy head sizes. The only reason I keep 11mm and 13mm sockets and wrenches in my portable tool box is for working on my friends bikes.

Did you ever check the coolant since you found out it was leaking into the gear oil?

Best case, you swap in a set of $70 pump gas domes. Worst case, you buy a $200 cool head with pump gas domes. Without a title, you can't prove it's yours. If it gets stolen, lost, or impounded, say goodbye. Also, even though it may not be stolen now, someone else can still lay legal claim to it.

Here's 1 that's pretty kick ass. It's a bit of a road trip for you though. What I can see from the pics, aftermarket A arms, Works front shocks, antivibe steering stem, extended swingarm(Not a roundhouse though), aftermarket bumper and grab bar, pipes(FMF?), Fullbore plastics. Although "Must be run on cam2 110 octane" doesn't tell you anything about the motor, if it has high enough compression to need race gas, the crank has to have been trued and welded. From the little bit of looking around I did, there doesn't seem to be anything real special in your immediate area. http://fredericksburg.craigslist.org/snw/4650251998.html

The first 3 are nothing special. The last one has CPI pipes. That's a plus. Other than that can't tell much about it. Nothing very great appearing in the 2 crappy pics. It just burns my ass when people write "too much to list". You want $3,000 for something and you can't spend 5 minutes listing a few of the strong points?

Find a bike with FAR more money in aftermarket parts than the selling price of the bike. Then even if the motor seizes on the 1st ride, you are still way ahead. Most of the bikes I have bought, I could have parted out and made money. If you spend more than $500, make sure you get a title. The farther away from the sand dunes you look, the better the deal you will find. People that have to drive 300+ miles to the sand dunes get discouraged when they don't get to go any more because life gets in the way. I have bought several bikes in Washington and brought them back to Oregon. If you buy a mostly stock bike, you're gonna end up spending double what it's worth, by the time you start buying aftermarket goodies.

Get ahold of the people you got it from and tell them the pickup coil is bad and you want your money back. Then buy a used OEM stator.

Could also be a welded clutch ball. The clutch cable could have been down to the last strand, and they reefed on it with the welded ball. I hope whatever you're trading to him is worth no more than about $1400max. And that's assuming he has a title for the Banshee.

It's only the stock Banshee carbs that have to be drilled and tapped for the TORS removal. For your PWKs, all you need to do is buy the thumb throttle cable for without TORS and hook it up to the thumb throttle that you have. Thumb throttle cables are different from twist throttle cables.

Open up the kill switch. See if a wire is broke off the plastic block at the solder connection or if the plastic block is out of place.

Banshee631man has a bent stem. See if you can get him to cut it in half and punch the cap out and ship it to you.

I'm confused on how by process of elimination that you "assume" you have 200 main jets in your carbs. Open them up and find out what you really have. Also, you make no mention of air filter or air box lid.

They're anodized. Supposedly oven cleaner will remove it. I've never tried it though. I mentioned that to my local chrome shop and they said they have a whole tank of the ingredient in oven cleaner that does that.

Good luck finding a bolt that long, threaded all the way, at Home Depot or Fastenal.

People bitch all the time about autocorrect. Here's a thought. Turn it off. If you don't know how, that's what google is for.

Check out this thread. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=171188&page=1

Here's a thought. How about, do a leakdown test before you take it apart. BTW, if you are running VF2 reeds, you need VF2 reed gaskets between the reed block and the intake boot. I also use 1211 on intake gaskets and let it set up before doing a leakdown test.