SuprSlow50

Yea, the compression worried me a little bit too, but no one seemed to say anything about it whenever I mention it. Kevin at HJR said it's time for a new set of pistons and rings. I did a leak down test Sunday and had some good leaks on the UPP intakes, so I put rtv on the gaskets and it held 6psi for 25 minutes without budging. I am going to just chop the threads so you can see the fuel ring. From what I see with my eye/ear scope, it appears to be dark grey and 1.5-2mm or so. I will post up the pics tomorrow after work. Now assuming the main jet is close based on the plug chop, how do you determine that the pilot is correct? Does anyone do a part throttle plug chop, or just seat of the pants from there? And when you said the most important thing is setting "bowl height" I am assuming you meant float height since you said 16mm, is that correct??

Let me know if I am wrong on this...the very base of the porcelain is the fuel ring which would be WOT, and the upper part of the porcelain, near the electrode, would be the pilot/needle circuit, is this correct? I am only use to checking for the fuel ring on nitrous motors in drag cars where you are only WOT. Should I drop the clip one position? Did I give it enough run time to even get color into the plugs?

PM's have been replied to.

So I just got done warming up the Banshee and swapping out the B9EGV for a fresh set of BR8ES, went around the block and then made a 1-4 pass and shut it down. I dont want to chop the plugs bc with my ear/eye scope I can see down to the base of the porcelain and it has a fairly thick (maybe 2mm?) dark grey fuel ring. The porcelain near the electrode is nearly white on the left cylinder and the right is a slight greyish. I am not sure if I didnt get enough time or heat into the plug yet to get a good reading. Please let me know what you think. Sorry for the lack of pictures, the damn camara battery died right away...

No, this is my trail/dune bike. I think it might be because of the flash that the last pictures look lean. In person, I would say the first two pics are the most accurate in terms of how they look. I was messing with the camara settings to get the best pics and the last 3-4 pics I took made the plugs look light/lean. Hopefully, it will still be light out when I get home so I can use sunlight to take the pics.

Ok, let me start off with my setup...and say that I appreciate any input that you may have. 421 Cub, milled and rechambered stock head. Compression was 140/135psi when it was 10-15 degrees F, and with a little oil in the cylinder 159/150psi (It is suppose to have 165 with fresh topend, according to previous owner, but I have no way to verify this). 35mm pwks pilot=48 air screw 2.0 turns out needle=CEL on 3rd clip main=165 CPI inframe VF3's +7 timing 50/50 mix of 93 and VP C-16 Elevation 450-500ft Below are some pics of my plugs that have been in there awhile, and the ones I will be using to warm it up tonight before I throw a fresh set of plugs in and make a pass. I just wanted to see if you guys had any input based on these plugs...well, that and I had some free time while a work so I wanted to get this thread posted now instead of later when I will be out on the shee. Note: I did not do a plug chop to check the fuel ring since I will be reusing these plugs to warm up the motor, and I figured it was useless to do a chop on a set of plugs this old. Also, the last time I had these plugs in, the timing mark was very visible and just after the bend in the "L" towards the center electrode, which is just about perfect in my book. I'm not sure why, but I couldn't see the timing mark now.

WTF..... that was for sale on Craigslist in Toledo, OH too. I would post the ad but it already expired, I wish it wasn't a scam or I would have bought that thing!

all prices are negotiable...

Stock a-arms, spindles and tie rods (no bushings or dust caps) $175 Calipers without brake pads - $75 Hubs with rotors - powder coated blue $75 stock axle - $75 master cylinder with chrome lever- $65 brake lines - $25 All prices include shipping and paypal fees. I will try to get a picture of the axle tomorrow, camara battery went dead.

Please correct me if I am wrong but...The needle jet is responsible for 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, and maybe just past that where the main jet circuit opens up. The needle sits in the dump tube/main jet so the higher the clip is on the needle the less fuel it will allow up through the main jet and around the needle making it leaner. The opposite happens when you lower the clip, it pulls the needle up out of the main jet and allows more fuel into the motor from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. There is also the length and taper of the needle that come into play, obviously, the thinner and shorter the needle is, the richer it will be. I am not sure about the jetting on your super cub setup, but for my 421 cub, I have 35mm pwk's and in the summer it has 155 main, 48 pilot, mixture screw 1.5 turns out, and CEL needle on the 3rd clip from the top. In the winter (-10-35degrees F) it had 165-170 main, 52 pilot (too big but didn't have 50's) mixture screw 2.5 turns out. My jetting may not be of much help but I figured I would list it for you anyways, I'm sure someone else will be able to help.

I will take some plugs and some loctite, waiting for list of plugs... bump

lol...yup, I see it now that I'm at home, I guess when I'm at work and my screen is only 1" (so I don't get caught) it's hard to see everything....free bump for a clean Banshee

Price? I may have missed it, but I looked twice!

Hey John, I ended up buying that 2004 Black LE from that guy in Tennessee, the details are in my sig. Now I am trying to find a Banshee for my gf (or a spare for myself, lol) and i found one out in Maryland, but I think he is going to back out now. I haven't heard from him in a couple weeks and we were suppose to meet in Akron, OH next weekend. Are you heading out to the Badlands on April 9th?? Thanks for the replies, I am going to check those places out....assuming this guy doesn't back out of the deal completely.

Bought a set of chrome CPI pipes off him and they were better than they looked in the pictures he sent. The shipping was fast and communication was great, I would do business with him again for sure.

Well, I was going to drive across the country again to pickup my another Banshee, but it may be a better idear to just have it shipped. I was wondering, for those of you that have had an ATV shipped, which company did you use or who would you reccommend? If it matters, the shipping will be from Maryland to Chicago area. Also, what do you think it will cost to have it shipped, or what did you pay? Thanks.

Thanks Rob... Let me know what you think of those pipes once you test them out. I really loved the sound of em!

What should the clearance be? Do you think it is necessary to replace the rings and tear it down now?

Ok, so I just got done doing another compression test with a little oil in the cylinders and it went from 140psi and 135psi to 158psi and 149psi. Now then question is should I put new rings in it right away, or can I wait awhile? Also, is it ok to just re-ring it or should I replace the pistons too? I'm thinking that when I have the head off I should check the piston to wall clearance and use that as a determining factor as to whether or not I have to replace the pistons?? Thanks for all the help and info guys.

I was wondering if that was done to my stock head, but I have never heard of it being done before. And yes, this bike was originally built (again, from what I was told) to be an asphault drag bike on alky with 165psi compression. When I do a wet compression test tonight, if I find that the compression raises back to where it should be or close to it (165psi), would it be time to replace the rings seeing as it is down nearly 30psi?

Thanks Dirty.. I wasn't sure how much they port the intake area, that's why I was asking you for pics of your serval setup, but I can tell that nothing has been untouched in the intake port, but I haven't had the cylinders off to check the transfers and exhaust. Is it normal to not see a head gasket and instead see Yamabond coming from inbetween the cylinders and the head? I thought that was odd, and thought you only used a gasket or o-rings with aftermarket heads. I have tried calling A&S when I first bought the Banshee but have not gotten ahold of anyone or received a phone call back, so I just stopped calling awhile ago. I guess I will def. have to throw some oil in the cylinders and do a wet compression test tonight to find out the condition of the rings. I used both a Snap-on compression testor and a generic Auto Zone tester and came up with the same compression in each cylinder. I will post the results as soon as I get them.

You should be able to find a similar setup in here to at least give you a baseline of where to start... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99361

Ok, so I bought a Banshee a month or two ago, with the mods listed in my sig. I was told that it was a 421 Cub built by Dan Hull @ A&S, with a full drag port, and it was originally setup for alcohol with 39mm pwks. The guy I bought it from swapped the 39mm alky carbs out with 35mm pwk gas carbs from his buddies 421 cub (supposively built at same time by Dan Hull) before I came and picked it up. It was suppose to have 165psi (which seems low for an alky motor to me, but correct me if I am wrong). I pulled the vf3's out and there is still casting inside the intake so I am guessing this is not a drag ported cub, I did verify the pistons are 573m06800, and the stroke is 58mm. Just did the compression test and came up with 140-135psi, for the left and right cylinders respectively, and the squish was right at .0425" and I tried to measure the base gasket and came up with .018" and it doesnt look like there is any gasket inbetween the head and cylinder, but looks like Yamabond. What should I do, replace the rings and get an aftermarket head? One thing I haven't done that I really should do is a leakdown test, and I am sure I will hear that from all of you. But other than that, what would you guys reccommend??

Bump to the top...Still looking for one more Banshee, let me know what you have.