blubyyou

Thanks. I will try that out. I just about wiped the shee out doing that chop ...5th pinned on a bumpy, rocky strip of trail, and running out of road, trying to shut it down and get stopped lol! Any other opinion are welcome.

Also does the pics look like a good plug chop or not?

Right now I have pwk 35 air strikers with 150 mains and 48 pilots CEL needle in the middle clip. This is on my 4mil HJR aggressive dune/play port with a lot of bolt ons and around 2400 ft above sea level. Do you all think I'm way off or just a jet or two large?

hope these pics help out a little for you all.....like I said it was 5th gear chop( I ran out of room)

I need a little help reading my plug chop. I did it in 5th gear due to lack of room. I plan to get a good 6th gear pull in the near future but was wandering how this one looked. I'm not really good at posting pics but can email them if someone would give me an email address to send them to. Any other info you all would need just ask and I will provide it. Thanks.

A Clymers manual...I'm not being a smartass either!!! That book was the best thing I have every purchased for my bike. It realy helps out when you forget where a piece goes, torque spec, adjustments, ect. I'm not second guessing your mechanical ability at all.... good luck with the rebuild!

thanks sleeper.....I will get a good plug chop in as soon as possible and report back. It's just so difficult to find a place to get a good 6th gear pull around here. if I could get a good 4th gear pull would this be good enough to get a reading off of?

That's what I had heard too ...that the air strikers like small pilots and mains too! Now that you mention it my idle screws are in a little ways lol. It don't die if you come to a stop...only if it sits and idles for a few seconds( like 10-20 seconds). Like you all said I think I will go down to a 48 pilot then work my way down from there. I assume I'm looking for a light brown color on the end of my plug...then I know I've got the pilots dialed in? Then off to the plug chop to check the mains? Correct? Thanks again.

Elevation is around 2100-2400 ft. asl.

I just got my 4mil dune/play ported HJR motor together, Noss head with 20cc domes, +4 timing, ProFlow intake no lid, Chariot reed cages with Boysens, Chariot intake with built in cross over, Pro Circuits, 35mm air striker carbs. I currently have 50 pilots, CEL needle in middle clip, 155 mains I believe. It starts easy, idles high for about 10 seconds then settles down but won't idle long on its own without stalling. Just playing around in the yard 1-3 gears my plugs are dry but black. It revs good in neutral, revs good and the powerband hits hard when in gear. Although it seems a little lazy getting there. Smoke is a little heavy at start up and after warmed up its a little thick under WOT. I mix 927 at 40:1 w/ 93 pump gas. I haven't yet been able to do a plug chop. My question is, I think I'm a little rich on my pilots maybe. I thought about dropping to a 48 and see. Air screws are at 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 out I believe. Do I set the mains 1st then work my way down or can I get the pilots and air screws 1st? I just don't want to grenade a fresh motor from piss poor jetting. Sorry for the long post. Any help would be greatly appreciated and I have read countless threads on jetting. I'm just looking for a little help with my situation. Thanks again.

I just finished assembling my HJR 4mil with aggressive dune/play port. I have PC pipes, all the bolt ons, PWK 35 air strikers (I'm still dialing in my jetting- I'm a little rich). I can tell you this bike flat rips, I've only had it up to 3rd gear so far around the house. He can set you up with a killer setup! I'm going to use this for a trail bike only. I have full suspension with elka's, laeger arms, round house swinger so it should be able to handle the power in the woods. Long story short...massive power, hits hard, and flat hauls!!! My LTR 450 won't see much time in the woods this summer now lol.

Thanks AK and everyone else. I will look into it and how I wired it up. I figured it was something stupid simple.

I was out in the back yard riding my shee for a few minutes since it had been sitting for a week or two and I bumped my hand against the metal end on the Pro Design kill switch and got a nice jolt lol. Do I have the two wires backwards or something? I remember reading about this happening a while back but I can't seem to find anything with the search on here. Help me out....I'm sure it's something stupid simple. Thanks.

All I can say is wow! I finished assembling my 4mil, dune/play ported motor with all the bolt ons. I went by what Kevin recommended for my setup and this machine flat rips! I couldn't believe the difference from a bolt on shee to a built shee! Thank you Kevin for answering all my dumb questions and helping me build a great performing shee. You went above and beyond...HJR customer for life! Anyone looking for a builder for your bike, Kevin's the man!

Yeah I just had the pedal off... I will try adjusting it again. Are the rebuild kits any good though?

I need to fix my rear brakes...they did work but I had the pedal off and some how ended up turning the adjuster rod from the pedal to the master cylinder too much if that's possible. The reason I think it damaged the master cylinder is that it worked before and now they won't pump back up. I am wanting to know how good the master cylinder rebuild kits you see on ebay work or if they're a waste of money? I can buy a used master cylinder on ebay for basically the same money as the kit. However, you still are left with a used part versus rebuilding mine making it like new internally......I just want to know which option would be best and if the rebuild kits even work? Thanks.

Just thought I'd post up what the end result was....well after dropping it off to my local Suzuki dealer (pretty decent mechanics) they called me back and said they had it fixed about a week or so later. Come to find out that I had everything adjusted properly but the bolt on the pancake bearing was about a 1/4" too long and was contacting the clutch cover. Remedy was to cut a little off the bolt and it was good to go. I emailed Kevin at HJR about the issue thinking maybe they're was a wrong lentgh bolt sent or something...I just had them cut it down rather than cost him money to ship me one for no real reason. By the way Kevin you have excelent customer service!!!! I rode the bike today and cracked it through 3 gears up the road....you build one hell of a ported/ 4mil set up!!!! I listened to what you recomended and I am very pleased! I have my LTR450 pushed to the back of the garadge now due to the awsome power the shee makes. I'm jetted rich now and it stood strait up in 3rd and I realy wasn't beating on it that hard at all.............I'm officially sold on HJR motors.......these monsters rip!!!!!!!!

I used a helicoil kit from NAPA and put the oem size bolts back in. The helicoil kit ran about 60 bucks but it was well worth it and worked flawlessly.

Lol the yamaha shop said they wouldn't use a builder like Kevin at HJR...his work wasn't quality. That they only use Trinity. That's when the conversation ended and I loaded my shee back up. I took it to the local Suzuki dealer that does good work and they assured me they would get it right.

Dropped it off to the yamaha shop today and as stated I got the following " Toomey is the only builder we recommend for banshees. Kevin Herr...who's that? Running a setup without a base gasket and only 3-Bond...what engine builder would recommend that? How can the port timing be correct? Blah, blah, blah. ". Finally I gave up with him and said just adjust the clutch and I will worry about it blowing up lol. Hopefully they're capable of this repair and a simple rear brake adjustment along with a retorque of the base nuts/ Noss head. We will see in about a week when they will finish it supposedly. I'm sure I will get raped lol.

Cannot figure it out...off to the stealership tomorrow morning. I'm sure they will take their sweet ol' time on it and run the shop bill way up with a lot of extra un-needed parts along with the usual "you should've let our great shop build your bike...we're trained professionals". Oh well, I will post up the results.

Klotz Flexdrive 30 is what I plan to switch to after I get it adjusted correctly. I find it easier on the wallet to use the cheap atf when I drain it out for adjustment. But when its fixed I'm going to use Klotz for sure. Man I wish I could fix this problem.

yes I had plenty of slack in the cable before adjusting the pancake bearing. I ran the clutch perch screw on the lever all the way in before I tried to line the arrows up at the case. Confused and frustrated at this point......

using atf type-F