Turbo Chassis

currie motorsports is in raeford....hes not a sponsor on here...but one of the bigger builders in the NC area....you can get his number off my website or google....

i know of a tripple for sale that has ran some 3.20s if your still looking

doesnt show the 60ft so it doesnt count lol.....but most of you know to get that time what it would be....im thinking it was a 1.17....best ive ever had is a 1.15 and best et was a 3.12....i dont keep the slips so i cant post pics, but its on a 4 cyl snowmo with nitrous....

all the kits i sell come with the tie rods, They are 450 new and thats raw....This is sold! thanks guys!

ttt

Up for sale is a rigid front end powdercoated gloss black, 5/8 spindles powdercoated a redish pink color, polished tie rods (some scuffs and could use a good shining).... These are ready to bolt on your stock chassis have bushings and all....i sell these new for 450.00, this is a used set that i have laying around and am ready to sell. 350.00 shipped to you!

i might be able to make it if i can get my boss to let me go lol

just cause you beat alot doesnt mean the ones you beat are setup as good as your stock cylinder....i didnt mean you had to get a 4 mill cub i just picked a motor thats common, more reliable than most, and bigger than what you had now....basically i was saying if none of what i said about nitrous sounded good and you didnt wanna chance any part failures, then just get a bigger motor....theres always a chance for part failures, but as with everything, more so when you go adding power adders

theres only downsides to it if you dont like to wrench.... get a good nos or nx kit....2.5 lb bottle.....wire it all up right...get a holley blue fuel pump (theres also a some other pumps you can run but thats the easiest to get your hands on) ....run a return line to your tank to keep fuel pressure consistant...pille spread size depends on what fuel your running...set it up with 6lbs of fuel pressure..set the bottle pressure around 1000 psi.....start with something like a 20- 30 total shot...make sure you have a good battery so it doesnt let your pumps or solonoids not work well going down the track ..check to make sure all solonoids are working right (before you put the nozzles in the bike) if nitrous is coming out and fuel is coming out your good to go...if your not trying to spray the house down you can get a substantial gain and it wont be to hard on parts but its inevitable that you will over look something eventually and not have your bottle pressure right, not have your fuel pressure right, change pills and put them in backwards.....not richen it up for a cold night....and you will eat a piston or something.....its not as hard as some make it out to be, and harder than others make it out to be...just stay on top of things, and learn as you go....but once again if you dont want to risk hurting any parts....get a 4 mill cub and hope for the best

looking for one if anyone has one laying around with clutch lever/switch....let me know, needing one. Thanks

Stop trying to work it out and just hop in the truck and drive!!! Haha good luck at bako and see you in two weeks lol

And Brian that turd better be in Gilbert

Ill be attending all 4 races this season, and did the same last year, looking forward to lots of fun and lots of good racing

pms back and also wanted to update that all 10 of the swingarms in the deal have been sold. THANKS EVERYONE!

first : 3.92 second: 3.84 third: 3.78 given there are no major hicups, bogs, having to let off... by the end of the night (given passes are available...) 3.66 GOODLUCK!! and ive seen that don q at work, dont tune to many of those red cups HAHA

Ill give you permission to come to Gilbert on April 16th! Hop in angels truck I know you wanna !

may build a different setup and take our bike to asphalt so just trying to gather some parts......looking for 5/8 spindle mount wheels dont really care what design, in atleast decent shape, would love it if they already had asphalt tires on them, dont want smooth buffs, either just wheels, or wheels with asphalt tires. Thanks!

lol it happens thats for sure....part of the game we play

or they would be a tad on the small side for these engines though

they work alot more than every 10-12 passes if you have them on a mild tune and arent pushing the guts out of them....ours ran about 10 3.80 passes back to back to back with me on it in a stock chassis, not lightweight 160 lb rider, stock stroke stock cylinder 66 bore, stock carb, stock head....they run good once dialed in and not being pushed to there limits.. our only problem, like most people we dont like to be consistant and have fun lol we wanted to push it to run harder, which we did, it just happened to make it wreck alot more parts, nothing major, just stupid little things. If you are conservative with them, you can make a stock cylinder stock carb stock stroke setup run with alot bigger motors, if you push them you can really open some peoples eyes, but your going to have to turn some wrenches

Turbo Chassis is going to be running a special on 10 STANDARD STYLE ROUNDHOUSE swingarms for the BANSHEE. We are going to be offering these swingarms in any length -2 - +12 for $220.00 shipped (NORMAL PRICE IS 315.00 and after these 10 are sold they will go back to that price) These swingarms work great for drag racing in the dirt/sand/asphalt etc. These swingarms will be made completely of Chromolly and TIG WELDED! If you need wheelie bar mounts we can add those as well for an extra $30.00 They are lightweight and are available in link or no link. These will come raw unpainted. They will also work for other types of riding (dunning etc) but we will be adding some extra gussets if that is the case as there is more stress on the swingarm, so please make note if that is what you plan to do with it. We also offer gloss black or white powdercoating for an additional $40.00 (other colors available but pricing may differ a little) Chrome is not available. This is a ONE TIME DEAL AND WE ARE ONLY OFFERING 10 AT THIS PRICE. ONCE THEY ARE SOLD THE DEAL WILL END. I WILL KEEP THE AMOUNT SOLD AT THIS PRICE UPDATED AND ALSO POST WHEN THE SALE IS OVER. We will be accepting money orders or paypal, and each swingarm will be built upon order so that the length is exactly what the customer wants. Buyer must pay in full or put half down with PAYPAL to get this great deal. Thanks for your business and you can contact me by messaging on here, or calling/texting me at 304-483-0472 Jordan Rowan Turbo Chassis

me and a friend have a turbo bike we mess with....and im going to go ahead and tell you for an everyday rider this isnt going to be a good option....if your in the dunes and going to do some hill shooting or flat drags, or your just going to take it to the asphalt or sand drag strip its a fun thing to mess with....theres alot to them but its not as hard as everyone thinks...mainly staying on top of things, not looking over anything and not being upset about having to change some reeds, change a piston, change clutches, fix a broken tranny, and the list goes on....ours ran decent for its first year out, but has more in it.....for a good reliable setup for trail riding/duning all day ect, you absolutely dont want this setup....and if your only wanting to make 100hp you for sure dont want this setup....ours is a stock cylinder, stock carb, stock head, stock stroke crank setup and has a little nitrous, if it doesnt make 135 on motor/turbo and 155-160 on spray i would be surprised.... when the banshee was designed originally to have around id guess 28 hp, its going to be impossible to make it have a reliable 100hp as thats roughly 2.5 times the intended power....BUT you can have a decently reliable stock cylinder around 80hp.....and decently reliable 4 mill cub around 90-100hp, that also has ALOT to do with who's dyno you stick the bike on. im not sure what your riding is like bit if your everyday places to ride are anything like around here you would never want more than 65-70 hp as the rest would just simply be a waste....if your riding allows you to have that power, go with a 4 mill stock cylinder or 4 mill cub....id stay away from a 10mm as getting a crank if you have problems with yours will cost a good bit more than a decent 4 mill crank....yes you can get a cheap 10mm crank, but you get what you pay for.... it will also be hard at 100hp without a lockup to not just burn up a set of clutches everytime you go out, so lockup/lockout will be something to be considered, the list goes on if you want to make that kind of power and have places your riding that allows it...if i was building a trail bike and not an all out hillshooter, hill climber, or drag bike....id stick with a 4 mill stock cylinder, get currie motorsports or one of the site sponsors to build it for you as most of them can set you up with a great running 4 mill stock cylinder at minimal cost compared to a turbo bike, youll have plenty of power and have alot more fun not having to fix parts every outing..... Hope this helps

i dont really understand how you were bogging with a stock swingarm

THANKS! and table is 10x 3 ft