stockbeast

The pro circuits are a very good low end pipe, But what cajun said makes the most sense to me. Either mill the head or get a coolhead to up the compression and increase the timing. Those mods with the t5s will be a ton more power before the powerband hits than just switching to pro circuits. IMO And you will not lose any high rpm power and IMO you will pick up topend also. Banshees can benefit from higher compression with no other mods. As yamaha kept the compression a lil low IMO maybe to keep the 2 stroke emissions down or maybe keep cylinder heat down. I'm not sure maybe someone can either back this up or correct any wrong info I have posted.

I have a new 55 gal drum of alchy send me a pm

Thats the dumbest fucking thing I've ever heard

Seriously its all in the tires I ran the dunlop radials with lugs cut off. The pro wedges probably work better. I tried fucking around for along time tring to do things to get my shee to hook better in the grass and not spin. Dont waste your time get the tires that rip up a big ass chunk of dirt/grass as you dump it in second pinned. You will never be able to control your shees power down low because it has none with a dune port. So pro wedges and dump it in second.

Fuck Dirt wheels in 99 they said a 400s more tractable power would beat a shee in the dirt. and jumping one was like landing in a ruffled nest of bird feathers. My buddy went and got one and was expecting to beat my new stock banshee and I pulled him 5 bikes in a 300 ft drag. and it was even funnier on the mx track fuck dirt wheels and fuck 400exs want to woods ride and mud and shit get a 4wd. Get a banshee and you get pussy get a 400ex and you like dick.

what area are you in. Lots of grass fields in indiana. The field ridind takes a way different setup than sand. You dont need any more top end you need to make it hook and have a controllable powerband. The 13 tooth is a better choice than the stock 14. The 12 might be even better for what you are doing but like someone else said they wear out quick. I recommend the 13 tooth with a 41 tooth rear sprocket. That will get you into 6th alot quicker. The lower gearing is funny in the grass it will make it easier to spin the tires but makes the spin more controllable and lets you get it back up on the pipe quicker after backing off. very important in grass/ field riding Might as well get a chain while you are getting new sprockets. Def do the timing plate it is inexpensive and more timing will give you better low end. My next mod recommendations would be Getting your stock head milled or a coolhead to raise compression. Then pod air filters. and a good radial tire like what comes on the 400ex, or the raptor, and the yzf 450s. Those type of tires hook the best in the grass. IMO Then the only thing left is a cheap set of used pipes like FMFs hope that helps

You need to get a powerband out of a 1981 yz 125, put mothballs in the gas tank, and I was gunna say get your heads ported and polished but you already done that. I have done all this and now can pull 1 1/2 bike lengths on 300ex's no prob

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Carburetor-Rebuild-kit-Carb-Yamaha-YFZ350-Banshee-88-06-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ220509278311QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

You running stock carbs??? do a search for stock carbs getting water in them. For some reason the stockers do that. I dont know why but I am sure someone on here does.

No sleeve for the win

you should be careful with those ebay cdi's because you dont know the actual timing curve built into the CDI box usually it has more of an total advance than the stock cdi. The stock cdi already has an advance built in it just not as aggressive as the performance ones. You will get a lot better noticeable gains with a adjustable stator plate to change your timing and they are alot cheaper than the cdi. If your cdi isnt bad then it isnt worth the $125 to gain what little power the aftermarket cdi would provide if the timing curve is right for your motor. If the box you pick has to much advance for your mods then you could risk damage to your motor From my experience with the timing on my banshee the hot cdi boxes have too much of a steep curve in them to run any advance in the stator plate and kills the bottom end like that. If you have raised your compression any at all some of those ebay cdis will be to much for it. If your bike is close to stock like pipes and air filter then it should be fine just little improvement for the money. This is also just my opinion. Dillon

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170518795546

Looking for a 2 into 1 intake manifold. not really looking for a carb unless its a 38 or bigger. Hit me up if you have one. Thanks Dillon

what are you gunna do with the rough set??

Can someone help me with some info on powervalve combos. What are some options thru searching I only found rdz cylinders, cheeta and trex. Are these the only combos avail?? And which would be tailered the most toward mx riding type power. Thanks Dillon

try kicking over with the kill switch in the off position that will prime it whether you kick it slow or fast. If you just rebuilt you could have an air leak. The choke tube missing???? Maybe the float needles arent sealing and all your fuel is leaking out when it sits. Or if you just added more power to it which would be more air flow and it could be jetted to lean. Cuz it would run real good lean when warm and have trouble starting cold because that is when it needs the most fuel. these suggestions are just my opinion maybe someone who actually knows what they are talking about will chime in......LOL

try kicking over with the kill switch in the off position that will prime it whether you kick it slow or fast. If you just rebuilt you could have an air leak. The choke tube missing???? Maybe the float needles arent sealing and all your fuel is leaking out when it sits. Or if you just added more power to it which would be more air flow and it could be jetted to lean. Cuz it would run real good lean when warm and have trouble starting cold because that is when it needs the most fuel. these suggestions are just my opinion maybe someone who actually knows what they are talking about will chime in......LOL

naw bud their just calling you out on building a 700 hp mustang and not jetting your own bike........but what they dont know is all it takes to get a 03-04 cobra to 550- 625hp is intake, full exhaust, smaller blower pulley, and a tune that you pay for and someone can email the file to you and you can "jet" a over 600hp car by just programming it. actually easier than jetting a shee. So why it is doughtfull that his car is actually putting down 700 to the wheels. He does have a badass car but all the work he had to do it was less complicated than jetting a shee. just bolt shit on and go fast. The reason you got ripped on is that a banshee is like tuning an old school V8 carb and distributor, and your mustang is kinda like tunning a new 450r just plug and play. Both ways are cool just very different. I am the old school way and rip on these mustang guys for their lack of how to tune shit just like pondtunes is doing but then they wax me just like the damn 450 guys do. so its all in how you do things. But both of you guys are awful newbies to be starting shit on the forums, 03 cobra just start another post on what you need help with and you will get the help you need. this post was entertaining but no one learned anything except the shit I typed.....lol

can you send pics of flywheel and stator to 340dart@gmail.com

I will take them pm sent

LIKE THE TITLE SAYS I AM LOOKING FOR SOME USED STUFF BEFORE I HAVE TO GET IT OFF ALF NEW CUZ USED IS CHEAPER AND I AM POOR .....LOL CDI BOX NEW STYLE PLUG CASE SAVER ADJ. TIMING PLATE THANKS DILLON

............

ya leave the struts if on asphalt how did you strut the rear??? did you do away with the linkage and go from frame to swinger with a strut??? if so then shorter on the strut which wold be lower would keep the front down but you would have to lower the front also when I ran mine on asphalt I lowered it real low with the strut in the linkage in the rear and in the front I used 300ex works shocks. Then I could adjust the strut bar to keep it down but that was with the shock and linkage and adjustable strut for the linkage. and used flat track tires so basically I would say lower the whole thing with your solid struts if thats what you are running.....lower it untill the a arms and swinger are level

sounds like you are doing away with the shocks when you say strut.......the outher guys are talking about an adjustable strut for the linkage when still running a shock please clarify this and then it will be easier to help if you are running solid and no shocks you will be faster with a shock setup with your motor mods IMO I dont think a close to stock bike needs a solid strut no shock setup http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=170505648843 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-WARRIOR-REAR-4-5-LOWERING-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27b2edbacbQQitemZ170505648843QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories that is the lowering strut for the linkage to run a shock and its adjustable