00BANSHEE

Sorry, I was going by the first part of this thread when you were complaining about bad starts in the sand. I hadn't realized we switched to dirt. One thing is for sure, +4 swingarm + knobbies + 80hp on dirt = sit&spin. Wouldn't surprise me if your Kodiak kept up with you through the first 4 gears. At least until your bike got caught up with your tires. I have a dyno'ed 80 hp motor, not just guessing, and I tried a +4 swingarm on the trails and it was no fun at all. Even with taller gearing all I did was spin the tires. Even in the sand with 10 paddle haulers the stock gearing would just spin down the sand strip. I would concentrate on your jetting and reeds before you mess with changing pipes. Something is really wrong if you were bogging in the sand with 9 paddles and a +4 swingarm. You should have been smoking the crap out of those tires off the line in second gear. I am not knocking your motor just seeing that you are going through the same crap I did when I first got my cheetah cylinders. It took me about 3 months to really get them dialed in where they are now. Throw you in some V-Force reeds and drop your mains a little at a time. And if you don't make numerous trips to the sand then ditch that +4 and go with a stock or even a -1 swingarm. Then you will start smokin those guys. Good luck man, and let us know how it turns out.

Are you talking on dirt or sand? Trying to help you out but there is alot of difference when it comes to gearing wether you are talking sand, dirt, or pavement.

what carbs you running? Still have the TORs? Start with the air screws out 2 turns from seated and see what kind of response you have.

Sorry to hear your having problems with the shee. It looks too damn good to just give up on it. Stick with the BHQ and I am sure you'll find the right answers to get it haulin ass. And speaking of ASS,,,,, Thank you so much bigwill

Just take along a few larger jet sizes. When you get to where you are riding just do a quick plug check topped out in 4th gear. Since you were jetted for 35 degrees and it is now 80 degrees you'll be a little richer anyway. Sorry I can't help you anymore, I am not familiar with that type of fuel. I just hate to see someone miss out on a nice day of riding.

Maybe this link will help you out. Give the guys at Torco a call and ask them your questions so you will get the answers you need. Torco Race Fuels

When drag racing I launch in 2nd with the throttle pinned. I then keep it pinned and fan the clutch when shifting through the gears until the end of the track.

got1, stick with your original plan and get either the PC or CPI pipe. You won't be sorry.

His sig says " fmf pipes and silencers "

Would you care to tell us why???? Remember Josh you are only going with hear say... That is why I stay out of these type of threads. It usually ends up in a debate with someone that has never even seen either setup up close but they have a friend who's cousin once knew someone who got to sit on a bike that had one partially installed.

I had my doubts about the PC pipes. But a buddy has them on his Patriot Racing 4mm stroker and that thing hauls ass from bottom to top.

got one. No you don't have to mess with anything. Just install it and go. It bolts right in where the stock one comes out. No modifications required.

MY .02,,, you are way rich on your mains. I think you need to be down around 150-155. A 55 pilot is OK, but try and drop your mains down doing a plug chop each time to be safe. To get the best performance out of your motor you just dumped alot of money in, you need to get it on a dyno and get it dialed in. if indeed you are pushing 80hp a piped banshee should in no way keep up with you.

Thats normal, thats the stock factory "overflow sytem". The overflow bottle is mounted to the back of the airbox. Yep i did the same thing with mine, removed the bottle completly and just ran the overflow tube along the frame rails, held on with zip ties. I ran that setup all spring\summer\fall last year and iv come to the conclusion that keeping the overflow bottle on is the better setup. My coolant level always seemed to be low, I am running big bore sleeves with a stock radiator, its bound to get a little hot. It got to be a pain in the ass removing that radiator cover and checking/adding the coolant everytime I went for a ride. The weight of the coolant bottle is minimal, you can mount it up in the nose of the frame, between the upper A-arms and it works just as good as when it was mounted behind the airbox. When the engine gets hot and spits out some coolant, the bottle catches it, holds it and then returns it back to the radiator when things cool down PLUS.... you dont have to be paranoid about your coolant level and going through the coolant check ritual. This past winter, I re-mounted my coolant bottle, its mounted up front. I experienced the same thing. I reinstalled my bottle up front and it works flawlessly.

I agree 100% with your post. I think all the cry baby's that have a problem with how this site is ran ought to pack their shit and go find another site to on.

My stuff was shipped out and received from QS very quickly. No problems here.

Here you go Oklahoma Cross Country Racing Association Have fun.

you have a PM

I heard the south campground is full already.

Check out WyoDuner's website. One of the best. Dune Review

I have ran mine for about 3 years with no problems.

Sounds like you are ready to go. Just go race with what you have and see how you like it. After your first race you may want to adjust your suspension to your exact needs. Once you get it dialed in perfect you'll start kicking ass. When's your first race?

what are you looking for?

you just lost about 10hp there dude. I hope shee can recover.

I races a couple YFZ450s this weekend at the dunes and beat then by about 5 bike lengths and I am beating them in the sand trails also. how was the dunes this week? I couldn't make it down, got any pics?