Jereme6655

if your bike WAS running with the pistons backwards your gonna notice a HUGE HUGE difference when you spin those babies around the right way haha

what the shit....

id probably say to run a dome size around a 21cc dome.....keep you near stock til you get your other motor mods done..... im sure someone else will chime in to make sure my idea is correct...

you could get it now or later.....when you get it ported though your builder will recommend either a shaved head or a cool head with smaller domes to up your compression levels.......if you ahve a cool head at that point they will let you know what size dome you should get and you can buy them directly from them. They are around $65 if i remember correctly.

correct....i was talking in a "on average" view....haha...jsut realized i forgot to put that lol

ahh okay...thank you for the correction sandrider

it could just need new packing in the silencers.....it'll cost him like $15 to do it. on a side note......your dad is "semi-"right that being said....the 87-89 (may have been only half way through 89 before they switched) had J-arm front suspensions.....the later models after 89 had A-arm suspensions. The J-arms are lighter in weight than the A-arms but also do have slight problems with being able to withstand hard hits on gnarly trails. The A-arms withstand better hits but are also heavier. So technically speaking if EVERYTHING in the race was EXACTLY the same including rider and rider weight......yes....the J-arm might pull ahead by just meare inches.

correct....silencers arent going to boost your performance.....however if you get the matching fmf pipes on there you will definately see a big difference. There are other things that you can do too...like removing the airbox lid to help flow, advancing your timing to +4 degrees, and if that's not enough you can send your cylinders to site sponsors on here and have a port job done which will REALLY wake up that beast.... **warning.....you WILL need to rejet after modifying the motor....or else you WILL melt it down**

are they stock carbs on the bike? if so what pilot jet sizes do you have?

Jeff at FAST (farmandsandtoy.com) can also do your weld/true of your crank. he'll have the seal kits the gasket kits the tranny parts.....and he's a great guy to deal with.

it depends on alot.....such as what elevation are you at and what octane fuel do you want to run?

looks identical to the caps that are on the one pictured...hard to see.....it just has a giant brick that mounts through the cable hole. It really dont' matter what caps and cable you have on the carbs.......all you need are idle screws....Jeff at FAST sells them.

the 795 wiseco is the stroker piston. The 513 wiseco is the stock crank piston...

jeff does sell a really really good clutch for a damn good price...

yes....he WILL be losing power...

someone just recently made a battery box that sits where the original air-filter box was. it was made specifically to hold a motorcycle sized battery and bolted to the frame.....im sure someone on here will come up who it was....it did look really sweet though.

change the fluids.... pull the carbs and clean them really good if there was fuel still in the tank......drain the tank i'd also put a small bit of 2-stroke oil (about a spoonfull) down each cylinder BEFORE even cranking it over.......then SLOWLY rotate the motor over nice and easy using the kick-starter. refill with fuel.....and run it!

You cannot just run stroker pistons. Stroker pistons are designed to be run with a longer stroke crank....such as a 4mm crank. The stroker piston actually has a different location for the wrist pin

welcome to the BHQ buddy......here you will learn just about everything there is to know about the legendary banshee. With $2000 and some good leg-work you can get yourself a pretty decent banshee. I got my 2001 at a police auciton with V-force 2 reeds, FMF pipes, new rims and new Razr 2 tires, renthal bars, and a 2 into 1 air filter for $1675. AND it was still running strong on the stock bore. One STRONG word of advice since you are a new comer to 2-strokes.....GET THE CLYMERS MANUAL when you buy a banshee. Its like the bible of banshees......in it you will find everything from maintenance to setup help to rebuilding procedures for the entire bike. There are ENDLESS things you can do to a banshee to suit your needs and thrills.....and if you have a question dont be afraid to ask....but kick around here for awhile and check the repair/mod threads and you will usually see re-occuring posts about things your looking for. Jereme

ummm......ive never EVER seen a torq spec...... just crank it semi-tight to where it wont leak and wont vibrate loose...

The TORS (throttle over-ride system) is a system that is meant to limit your rpm's if it senses that the thumb throttle is released but the carb slides stay open. There is a way to diagnose it.....that is to unplug the little black box that is located UNDER the fuel tank on the left side of the bike. unplug it and see if it runs any better......if so then you can get the tors eliminator kit which makes working on the banshee MUCH easier because they remove those HUGE brickso on top of hte carbs.

hey FASTass......when and where are you going to get your banshee dyno'd........curious cause i didn't know of anyone with an atv dyno around us.

stupid question.....but have the spark plugs been threaded into the cool head yet? Just a question as im wondering if the cool head dome are cut way off to what they are supposed to be or if maybe somehow you managed to get a bad set of threaded plugs....

your flux capaciter is tweaked.....

haha....we try and stick to the orv routes john...hahahhaa.....BUT we have come across "some" mud.....but we try to avoid it....or pick spots where the mud and water isn't gonna hammer up hard enough to get to our carbs....bahahahahaha