Jereme6655

have no personal experience but I thought I could remember some saying that way up high in the rpm's it becomes slightly stiffer trying to clutch.....

yes you can run it. However you will need to get new pistons that are made specifically with a offset wrist pin height. Your bike will also not run up to its full potential......actually until you get it ported for the 4mil you will barely be making much more than stock......however get it ported for that 4mil and you're gonna see a whole new world that you would think your bike was never capable of. Also you will need a head that had domes cut for a 4mil crank or else you wind up using a spacer plate......which is NOT ADVISABLE.....

hes asking if the exterior of your radiator is clean........if they are packed with mud or whatnot they will not dissipate heat correctly and will actually help your bike overheat rather than prevent heat build up

why you crank on that one so hard? haha

okay so you've narrowed it down to the spark issue follows the plug wire. First try removing your plug wires as mentioned earlier and try trimming some back.

are you saying that BOTH of your coils are allowing both left and right side to intermittently fire?

You have two options here........keep scrubbing and checking and ignoring certain things on here and it MIGHT get fixed or go away........or you could melt holes straight through your pistons. OR you could do as already pointed out.....and do a leakdown test to ensure you have no air leak and are not going to be replacing pistons. Either way its up to you....but we've seen it many times.......new guy comes on, complains his bike doesn't run right, ignores the guys who have been on here forever spilling all the tips/tricks, then they come back crying when they can't get their shit to start. Just do a leakdown test and ensure yourself that your not going to cost yourself massive amounts of money you don't need to. And did you ever wonder why the guy sold the bike SO cheap as you claim? Maybe he already melted the pistons and that's why he rebuilt it......and still couldn't figure out the problem.

you can file it.....however if that doesn't work you can get ahold of jeff at FAST Racing (farmandsandtoys.com) they list them as $40 for brand new choke plungers. They're not hard to remove......just get a wrench on the hew head that is screwed in near the carb body and twist it out. Then you can try and file them, but if it doesn't work, you have to replace it. Be happy.....a while ago you couldn't get a NEW replacement choke plunger......

Send it out.....You must true the crank which requires a jig to hold the crank. If it weren't for the truing of the crank im sure EVERYONE would give it a shot. And yes....it needs to be TIG welded...... BUT here's something to think about.........take the cost of a quality TIG welder (which aint cheap) and then look at any one of our builders. Now on these bikes there isn't a TON that requires the use of a TIG welder....there is a need for some welding but not THAT much. So these guys have bought extremely expensive welders to ensure that they can weld where good, strong welds are needed. And to ask if you think you need it welded.....yes you do. it costs about $65 dollars. That's nothing. Now think about what happens if you DON'T do it.......your gonna be in the market for a new crank ($400) plus the possibility of more hard parts.....but why tear your motor apart to replace that blown crank without replacing seals (at $30) and while your at it you remember your top end was old and tired....there's another $300 to rebuild.... So its just cheaper to pay the $65 +the ride and have a sponsor weld it and true it.....plus if its beyond repair....they'll let you know their feelings of whether or not to run it based on if it will do more damage...

Good choice on builders!

are you doing the compression test correct? install compression gauge, hold throttle open all the way and kick the motor over UNTIL THE NEEDLE STOPS MOVING.....none of that 3 kick crap. ALSO.....you need to ensure you're using a QUALITY compression tester AND the end of it needs to be the same length in the threads as the spark plugs or else it will throw off your readings. Report back.........the less you report back in here.....the less us guy who have been around are willing to help.

still $13.95 through Jeff at FAST (farmandsandtoys.com) They're one of our site sponsors that will bend over backwards to make sure that you're happy with the work and products that come from him....

welcome to the site. And congrats on getting married........and you wont be able to ride in march in st Helen.....the snowmobile trails are open by the DNR until March 31st and people racing around on anything other than snowmobiles usually wind up with a visit from john e law at their place with a VERY large ticket from his partner captain DNR. Not to mention your buddies and you will be frozen. I did a bachelor ride last year at the beginning of may and had dust, mud, and mostly snow, slush and ice for the trails. So do yourself a favor....im not kidding....don't ride in march. Wait until AFTER your married and go up for memorial day...... Just remember though.....most trails use parts of the snowmobile trails......which is illegal to use until march 31st for 4wheelers.......not to mention imagine being way out on snowy trails when an up north local finds you after he's had a few too many on his sled....they don't take kindly to down-staters that won't follow the rules.

dude can seriously lay a nice bead.....

the mod quads will fit up to a 15 with no mods.......your chain WILL touch barely but it will wear in the tiny amount that it needs (i'd still prefer to clearance it) but when it comes to the 16 up front....your gonna need to grind it out.

1) Never take your stuff there again.....that guy sounds like a complete moron. 2) Why is everyone always say "id rather get the stuff done locally".....obviously your local guys are idiots and are going to blow your money for you......and leave you with a garbage machine....take the time, send it out and get it done right by people that are RECOMMENDED TO YOU. 3) No....you cannot just slap in forged pistons......well you could but I guarantee you it will lock up on you within minutes. Cast pistons and Forged pistons take way different piston to wall tolerances. 4) You say it wasn't detonating......but are you sure? Its a 2stroke...the deto sound isn't as obvious as on a 4 stroke engine. also.....IF YOU SEND THOSE CYLINDERS OUT TO SOMEONE WE RECOMMEND.....chances are they can answer every question you have, along with set you up with what you NEED before you NEED to rebuild your bike AGAIN. DO SHIT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME....its cheaper.

Yup. You got extremeky lucky like starwriter said. And it also sounds like your on your way to bring a decent mechanic on these things. To see how the clutch works just pull the clutch length while you have the cover off. ... it should help you figure it out

along with what sleeper has said....you should not be just randomly enlarging the bore of your cylinders in search for more power. You wont see anything worth considering a gain. Bores should be saved for worn out cylinders, or cylinders that have seen catastrophic failure.

pull the motor and get yourself a clymers manual. Then order yourself new gaskets and an entire seal kit. When you get your motor disassembled and your crank is out......send it out to one of our builders to check it out and weld it. This will ensure it will not begin to separate as they are only pressed together. Then clean the entire motor and take your time and go through the entire motor, taking your time to reassemble it all. These are 2 stroke motors. The cases split top and bottom, not sides. which makes it EXTREMELY easy. Hell I know people who have taken the motor apart while at a campsite because it had an issue and fully reassembled it and got back on the trails THAT DAY. But again....take your time.....remember.....if something goes wrong internally at 9000 rpm......it usually isn't a good outcome....

for a cub? you're definitely going to need larger carbs.....

couldn't find the torque wrench......then it dawned on him why he couldn't get the cases to seat on themselves correctly.....

what brand piston kits were they special?

with stock porting and at 500 ft you'll be too high on 20 cc domes

so anyone think he actually got it back together right and is havin fun with it........or are we takin bets that he never put a filter on it and he's pulling his hair out now cause it wont kick start again.......

there is an o-ring in there.....i'd pull the joint off and check to ensure that the o-ring isn't damaged. Then if it IS leaking from the cap screws.....then yes....go ahead and put a little rtv or whatnot on the threads of the screws. I've never seen the threads leak, but I do know there is a chance as the threaded hole does crash into the water jacket....