Jump to content

VooDooBanshee

Members
  • Posts

    100
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by VooDooBanshee

  1. Yeah, I'm sure it was never started! Some people are so full of shit!
  2. #1 looks like a really nice bike, but you would have to go look at them. I would say #1 and #3. Good luck and keep us posted.
  3. Do a compression test and post the numbers. Check spark and fuel as stated above. Will it start at all?
  4. THe lean-in is good. Should be about 3 degrees on each side. They call that negative camber...It's good for turning corners. You should invest in an angle finder. They sell them at ACE and other home outlet stores. Put a 2X4 against the tire - touching the bottom and top of the tire, then put the angle finder on the 2X4. See what you got... Toe in/out is easy: - use a tape measure and measure from the middle of one tire to the other (has to be the same height on each tire). Then do the same in the rear...Both front and rear tires should be within 1/8th of an inch of each other...Adjust tie rods to get the correct measurement. The whole process will take 10 mins with the right tools. I got mine at ACE for 9$...Saves the guess work!!
  5. There are screws on the bottom of the bowls. Unscrew them and see if fuel comes out of each one. You need to make sure you are getting proper air, fuel and spark. That's really all there is to the banshee. The CDI and coil seldom fail, however there are other issues like failed stator, sheered off woodruff key and loose fly wheel that can cause spark/starting issues. Is it backfiring at all?
  6. Yes, tie rods will ship with the arms. No tie rod ends, just the rods...
  7. What mods are on it? Need to know that first. Take the carbs off and clean them well. Use compressed air to clean the passages and jets. Use a good amount of carb cleaner in each. Do you have spark - good spark? Your looking at a spark, fuel or air issue, but you need to do some testing to see which one - then go from there...First take the plug out and plug it in to the boot/wire. Ground it on the head and see what kind of spark you are getting. You should see a fat blue spark on each. Take both plugs out at the same time to ease kicking it over by hand. Is your air cleaner clean? Compression good on each jug?
  8. $100 shipped for both. Ready to go. Paypal. PM me for email address.
  9. I bet you put your slide in backwards....
  10. Same thing happend to me before. Use an impact (don't go too nuts) and use some red loctite on the nut. Make sure you tap that key into the key slot - don't just set it in.
  11. I think you are fine. The overflow bottle is really not an "overflow" bottle. It's a collector. Most people, including myslef just pitch it... I suspect that your coolant is getting hot (as it should) and spitting out the excess into the bottle...Not sure what radiator you have, but it sounds OK to me. Is it one of those China ones?
  12. Maybe a backed off flywheel or a sheered off woodruff key?
  13. Yes, thanks. Those came with my set and I did excatly what they required. The bike looks and rides great, my only question was on the elka's. Not sure how much pre-load to adjust, but I can probably do this as I ride. I wanted to know how much most people configure the shocks for preload.
  14. Black stock shocks and arms for sale. No dust caps or bolts. Off a really clean 05 SE...Prices are shipped - pay pal. Shocks - $60 Arms - $60 Thanks!
  15. Sorry, yes I meant Camber....The last question is the shocks. Do you have to adjust preload on the shocks when they are new? Thanks guys!
  16. I have a set up like new stock a-arms for sales. No dust caps or hardware, but I did make guards for the fronts which will protect them. $80 shipped. Paypal...
  17. I would run 40:1 with a Klotz oil. Either a R50 or supertechiplate with castor is a good start... If you want to run Yamalube, then run it at 32:1...Just get a ratiorite cup and make sure you are mixing right...You will get a million opinions on this one!
  18. So I installed a set of +2 Loanstar SPORT a-arms, elka STAGE 1 shocks and braided lines tonight. I have a few questions and was wondering if anyone could set my mind at ease... 1. When installing the arms and I torqued them to the factory spec - or close to it the arms seemed stiff moving them up and down before the shock was mounted. Is this normal? 2. How do you adjust caster once the ball joints are mounted? There is a nut on the back of the balljoint thread, but how does that do anything? 2. I have to adjust pre-load on the new Elka's to adjust ride height? The front end looked lowered... 3. How far should the top cap of the shock be turned down? I am a noob with suspension, so I appreciate the help!
  19. OK, so I assume that you do this before putting on the key, correct? Thx
  20. If it's backfiring, back sure to look at the flywheel and woodruff key. Backfiring is often a timing issue - had the same problem. Did you switch the slides by mistake? Are they in backwards? Make sure the beveled edge of the slide is facing the airbox. Did you reconnect the choke tube? (the black hose connecting the carbs)? Maybe the carbs need a good cleaning as well...
  21. Looking for a flywheel and stator in nice condition for my 05... Paypal ready. Thx
  22. I guess I will buy a new fly wheel becuase this thing looks pretty bad... What about that stator? Looks like it took some of the coating off of the tops...
×
×
  • Create New...