VooDooBanshee

Hey guys- Quick question... I'm leaving to go on a ride this weekend in MI. Today I noticed a small amount of fuel on the floor (gas on). It's coming from the overflow tube on the choke carb side. I know this usually means that the float might me a little off, but the bike is running awesome. Just put in #290 main per toomey for the weather change. Is a little gas normal if it sits for a few days?

Anyone else have any luck on this configuration?

Loosen the rear shock bolt just a bit, lube then tighten. This will do the trick

The guy says they are 15 inch from eye to eye and were on extended blaster a-arms....

Anyone got a nice set of aftermarket shocks for the front of a banshee? Need something for trails and XC style riding...Works or Elka or Pep or something similer. PM me with details. Thx

Hey guys- Will a set of works shocks for a blaster fit a banshee? Will I loose any ground clearence? Thanks!

I'm running a 280 main right now. It's been up to the 40's here are night and she runs great. Not sure bumping the main up to 290 vs 280 will do much damage... I'm also running Klotz @ 40:1 so I am running richer than 32:1 in theory...

I use 80W golden spectrol...No issues...

Hey guys- With fall in full effect in IL, I have a trip planned up in MI in the next few weeks. I am assumung the weather will be in the 40's. Right now the bike is jetted perfectly for the summer and have several rides on it. Do you think I will need to change any of the jetting on her? Will 60-70 down into the 40's make a big change? T6 pipes +4 timing K&N filter in stock air box K&N lid with outerware stock engine Thanks a bunch!

Thanks for the info guys-good stuff!!

Klots Supertechniplate 40:1 - buy online, get a gallon and your done!

Oh and when you do a compression test look at the plugs for a tan color. Slightly black is OK, but might indicate a rich jetting situation (not a huge deal). Check to make sure the axl bearings are not loose and check the swing arm bearings too. Grab the rear and shake back and forth - should be tight. Check the VIN number is there to make sure it's not stolen and make sure it's the same year as advertised. Look at the coolent too...This is what I do when I buy bikes and if someone is being shady, it will freak them out - you will know...90% of people are cool, but it's the 10% you gotta look out for...

^^^+2

Seems lke a good price. Make sure to take a compression tester with you (check both sides)...Should be around 120psi on a stock motor. Look at the oil and make sure there is no water in it. Look at the air filter(s) and look in the air box as well (if it has one). See if the tires on the front are original and see how much tread is left to guage how long it's been ridden for...Also, look for any cut wires - stuff haning off from the wire loom. A lot of folks just cut stuff and this could cause issues down the road...

OK, if I do the +4 timing plate, will I need to re-jet or mess with any fuel related stuff? It's just that this thing is set up perfect, and it runs great! I know it's just spark, so i don't think I will... Any isses with the +4 plates?

Thanks guys! Yeah, there is still paint on the bolts from the factory, so this thing has not been ridden a lot... A few questions: *Can I run the +4 timing with a stock head and stock motor? Will this cause any problems or longevity issues? *I line in IL, so I think I am at sea level. What domes for 93 octane? *I changed all the fluids already, just used Honda coolant. Ran this in all my 4 strokes with no problems over the years... *Jetting seems right. Thing fires over in 1 kick and after it warms up a little, it rips with no problems through the gears and power band. They guy did give me a bag of jets with it, which was cool! *Compression on both cylinders is 120 PSI on the button. What I am saying is when she gets tired, I will do some porting and boring. Right now I don't want to rip into a fresh motor. Guess the timing plate would be a good edition? Thx-

"MONEY SHOT" or "$$ SHOT"

Hi guys. Here is a picture of the new Banshee. 2005 Special Edition. Not the best picture, but wanted to post it up! Trying to make it the best possible trail bike...Any suggestions on what to do next? Motor is 100% stock with compression right at 120 PSI... Here is what it has so far. New ITP Rims on GNCC ITP tires K&N internal filter with K&N filter lid + outerware Toomey T6 pipes Full Skids T&M case saver Toomey Sparkies 6 Pack Rack Front Bumper. Cobra Nerf bars Now, I need some front shocks - Stock ones are crap!

Thanks! I was looking today and found these...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/yamaha-banshee-works-shocks-dual-rate-14-5-inches-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3f037993fdQQitemZ270641239037QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories They look decent, but I also came across the NTC shock from China. Probably junk! I'm looking to buy fronts if you have any nice ones sitting around!

I got mine from ATV direct. Got ITP wheels and Holeshot GNCC's for 525 to the door (all 4). They are awesome trail tires!

Good idea! The TM says to remove the old bolts and use the longer screws provided for both. Actually after further investigation I think it was gas/oil dripping out of the tube. After a while the gas evaporated and left an oily residue. I am running klotz and it looked like fresh oil! I will still double check the neutral switch. Thanks!!

Hi guys- Quick question...I added a TM design works case saver last week. When I was completing the job I noticed that there was oil on the countershaft (not the seal) when I took off the sprocket. Today I went out to the garage and found a little oil on the floor. I don't notice any difference in the oil level, so I am assuming that it's a small leak. My question is when this happens, what is the culprit? The oil on the countershaft was on the keyed teeth of the shaft. I notice a bit of dirt build up around that whole area, but nothing major. Is this normal? There is a little dirt build up on the shifter seal area too, but nothing looks fresh. I notice some oil on the back of my skid plate too. Thank you 2005 SE Banshee

Excellent, thanks for the responses. Now, how does everyone tackle the key switch mount on aftermarket bars? I know I can just get rid of it, but what are the best bars to keep it in place - like stock? Thanks-

Awesome, thanks guys!