xX JAMMER Xx

yep brand new plugs installed. barely any dis-coloration. im really trying to learn how to use this multi meter thing. i think this cheapo on i bought is broke. no numbers come up lol.. gonna go grab a good one from my buddies shop

wiring harness was grounded out on my stinger tube. now thats fixed and it wont rev passed half throttle. i jetted it down from 330 mains to 300 mains to see if that was the issue. it wasnt still same problem. checked the reeds they were fine and re-sealed them. i also ran my buddies coil and cdi and still the same problem. could it be the wiring bad? i wrapped each wire individually around the one that burned and was grounding out. or could it possibly be the stator?

kicker idler gear?

looks great. but where is the red at on your bike? in the picture where you mounted your battery you see all the red frame and stuff.

oh wow man thats horrible! i am stumped at what that may be or where it even came from for that matter.

have you checked to see if your wires got burnt by your stinger tube?? could of melted the wiring harness and is shorting out on your pipe. just an idea

Hey man. this is seriously the best way to do it hands down. i just put new lines on the front and did it this way. take a tube that will fit snuggly over the brake bleed tube (not loose, you want a tight fit so no air gets in). make sure you have a good bit of that tubing. next fill a cup or something that will stand on its own and the brake line can run down into. fill that cup jug whatever with brake fluid making sure that it the tube will not come out of the fluid. now crack the bleeder and leave it open and pump your brake lever. you dont have to do this real fast just do it at a steady pace until you no longer see bubble coming out of the tubing that is inside the brake fluid. once you see no more bubbles close your bleeder and pump away. should feel it starting to get firm. make sure you dont run out of fluid in your resevoir while doing this or you will just suck air back in the line. just repeat the step, it should only take 2 times of doing this until your brake pedal feels really firm. any questions just ask ill try to get back with ya.

i bought a marshalls chain and spent 25 bucks on it at dealer cost. it is a beefy o-ring chain. in the catalog it has over 1000# more tensile strength (7200#'s) then DID and RK. it was so strong my chain break that i used on my last DID couldnt even break it. i had to grind my links off.. so far im really happy with it.

this is what it is doing after i take it for a quick spin. it will sit and idle just fine but as soon as gas is applied it dies out. seems a lot like the parking brake deal, but unlike that i can ride it for a good 40 seconds or so. it really acts like as soon as i put the engine under a load the spark just dies on me. but i really dont know.

put a black diamond plate toolbox in the bed and keep the black wheels on.. that would look amazing!

Well i was just watching about 4 people bitch about them in the shoutbox.. Nothing real solid to convince me to change mine because i have never had a problem with them. The reason im leaning towards the spark going away is because before i took my bike for its maiden voyage, i checked the spark and it looked great. went for a quick break in ride and maybe rode it for 1 minute and it fell flat on its face but it would still idle. honestly it kind of does the bog as if the parking brake was causing the problem. So after it did the bog thing i could idle it all the way back to the garage. I pulled the plugs and checked the spark and it was really weak. could barely even see it.. tried to start it back up while it was hot and it would still bog.. so i let it sit for 30 min. or so and start and i could rev it to the moon. but as soon as i would take off for another little break in ride it would act up again. i sanded all of the ground connections to the bare frame today and tried it and still had the same problem. honestly im not very good with anything electrical. if i took my time to learn it and had someone to show me i could pick it up pretty quick.. its just not something i ever really got into. On that note is why i would rather just buy new parts instead of testing them, mostly because i dont know how and i dont want to pay a mechanic to look everything over and charge me the same price i would pay for new parts.

the frame is freshly painted. i just stripped the paint and sanded the coil mounts. ill go do the cdi here later. ill get to test it out tomorrow sometime and give everyone some feedback.

i had this problem once. your going to want to make sure that you put a small washer on both ends of the roller that way the bolt doesnt hold everything tight. the washer cant be too big though.

alright thanks for the help man. it wouldnt hurt to get a new coil and wires, since talk about stock banshee wires are junk.

im going to try contact cleaner on all of the plugs tonight after work. It seriously blows my mind. It runs and revs great until i ride it for about 1 minute and its like the plugs get to hot and just die. so im hoping its the coil and not a stator problem. is there any aftermarket coils you would suggest. and aftermarket wires?

brand new pilots installed. i started with the air screws 1 1/2 out and then went to up to 2 1/2 out

okay so what do you think about 300 mains? dropping 3 sizes.

i have not taken the paint off where the coil mounts.. its starts right up and sparks great until i ride it. once i take it for a ride its like it the spark is diminished. yep carbs are synced --------------------------------------------- what about break in with shearer pipes. i know they are a top end pipe. do you think i might be flooding out the plugs as soon as i ride it, because i dont want to rip on it beings im trying to break it in. but the again i really dont think it would matter if i hopped on and just started ripping.

it honest to god runs great cold. To me it feels like once the spark gets hot it starts fading away. i checked the carbs also. But like i said i couldnt get an accurate reading from the plugs. I jetted to what Kevin Herr told me should get me close to what i need. I jetted it really rich in the past and it would still run, not great but it would. but i have ran it lean too and could get a good 20 minutes out of it before it felt like something was wrong.

okay so last winter i took my bike apart for paint. my only mods at the time was a k&n filter and fmf gnarlys. Throughout the winter i added v-force 3's, Shearer SB IF pipes, HJR dune/hillshoot port. I upped the main jet to a 330 on stock carbs (tors removed). My elevation is 1100' and its typically 70*-80* out. Once i got everything installed i used klotz oil 32:1 mix, brand new NGK BR8ES plugs. Fired it up everything sound good, let it warm up then went out to break it in. Not even one minute into the ride the bike started cutting out on the left cylinder and then i couldn't go past 1/10 throttle, it would just bog on me. Not sure if this is a spark issue or a fuel issue. I couldnt get an accurate reading from the plugs because i rode it bogged out for a good 400' back to the garage. Then i let her cool down, pulled the plugs they were a nice caramel color. started it up, let it get warm and went to go for another ride and just dies on me again.. It will sit and idle just fine but the second i add throttle it bogs. I dont have tors unit, parking brake and throttle sensor on it. Nothing electrical has changed since before i tore it apart. ran great before. Any insight would be greatly appreciated

thanks for the info fellas

Just kind of wondering if anyone knows any downsides to having this done. F.A.S.T. offers to do this mod for 60 bucks, so in my mind i should just send it and have it done since its so cheap to do. So I really just want to hear some feedback from some people that have had this done.

if your plastics are already cut i would look into the new rocket r2 pipes. (have to cut plastics to fit them) i test road them on my buddies bike and they flat out get it. Far superior over any FMF or Toomey pipe i have ever used Maybe do a set of reeds. A timing plate is a cheap bolt-on that offers a good bit of horse K&N air filter

lol here is a guide haha