zr2highrider

Hey how often do you run up at Troy? Couple of my friends have quads and want me to run up there.

I got an 98 4.3L Vortec s10 engine that came out of a RUNNING s10. Only thing is it needs to be rebuilt. Rod bearing knocking. Good heads and had good compression. Will sell the engine with heads and valve covers. (never took heads off and did not touch the bottom end) Stock exhaust headers Basicly, all you need to buy is some bearings and gaskets (maybe $100 tops at o'riellys) and you can get you a good little engine. Would like to get $100 out of the engine. Other parts: Intake: upper and lower with injectors, $40 Water pump w/ fan: did not seperate when took off. $20 Alternator: $20 Throttle body and intake hose: has mass airflow sensor and filter box, $20 ALL OFFERS ARE OBO. Will NOT ship...sorry, bad experiences lately with shipping so local pickup is a must. Shoot me a PM with questions or offers.

Ya i went through EXACTLY what your talking about! When i got this shee about 2 months ago, the guy threw in an extra set of stock carbs. The bowls were not the right ones on the bike so I swapped them out. During the swap I figured I would compare the bowls that were on it to the other bowl. They were ALL diffrent. The bowls that had the pickup for the choke (had 2 of them) were even diffrent. One just had a pickup but the other had a hole at the bottom of the pickup tube. This is litterally drivin me crazy!!! here is the one with the hole the one without the hole if anyone knows anything about this please chime in!!

Compression is about 125 on both cylinders. Carbs are dead on with the sync. Im still thinkin its the pilots but I could be wrong. Is there anything else that could be wrong with this bike? Choke works - bike runs rich when I pull it out when running.

I used Lucas oil in my old 91' cr250. I had that bike for about 3 or 4 years and rode the piss outa it and it NEVER left me on the side of the road. Now that I gota banshee, probably the only stuff that I will run in it and you cant really beat the price. Really good stuff.

I've been running Lucas 2 stroke oil 32:1. Its cheap and seems to run pretty good.

About 2 weeks ago. Set to Clymer repair manual stock height. Both carbs are sync'd. Have needle set one click to the rich side. Thought it was a ignition issue but got that solved. It really rips with no bogs or anything. Wished it had some more lower end but i hear that these just dont have that much low end grunt (just came from a cr250 that was pretty torquey). The only problem that I have it its just hard to start. Starts right up when the engine is warm but when its a cold start, it litterally puts holes in the bottom of my boot from kickin it so much. Starting procedure: Kick 20+ time and get tired Squirt a lil premix in both carbs Starts almost instantly

Ya thats what i have been doing to start it. i just use an old squirt ketchup bottle and fill it up with some fresh 32:1. A lil' squirt in the back of each carb and it fires right up on first or second kick. Def getting good spark....shocked the shit outa me (not thinkin). Plugs are clean. Gettin some new pilots here in a few day.

My friend just got a 99' banshee. Has V force 2 cages and carbon fiber reeds, T5's, .50 overbore, No airbox - has K&N's on carbs, No TORS and the rest is stock. He basicly got it in pieces and just got it back together. Thing is that he had to get carbs (let him use my spare stock set). Elevation here in LV is 900 ft above sea level. Its around 35* here and he wants to know what kind of jets to use now and in the summer. Im still kinda stumped on my own jetting let alone his. Enough about his, now mine. I got pretty much the same setup (few things diffrent - bigger bore, aftermarket clutch, ect.). Its hard as hell to start still but runs like a champ. Running 320 mains. 32:1 Lucas oil, and runnin pump gas. Should I step it up on the pilots? (they are stock i believe and yes my carbs are clean)

no problem. post some pics up. i gota make another one for my friend and wana get some ideas

ya my welds arent the best but they will hold. also ran out of argon half way through

Ok, new symptom. Started tinkerin with my shee today and found out that im getting spark to only ONE plug wire. The one "dead" wire is still getting juice but not much. The way i fugured this out was by taking off one plug wire and see if it ran. Well, it ran but not good (expected). Switched out the plug wire and it didnt start at all. I did this with the other cylinder and had the same results. So, this would either mean a bad plug wire or a bad coil correct?

If you have aftermarket pipes (probably do) I mounted mine were the stock exhaust mounted. There should be a tab with a hole in it right behind the lower A-arms. For the back I just used one of the 2 bolt that hold my footpegs on. Heres some pic:

Got the majority done with the skid plate today. It actually turned out pretty good I think. Still got some work to do on it. Tell me what ya think

ok will work on that tommorrow. Plug chop right? 4'th gear wide open then shut it off?

Ok so 1/4" it is. Welds wont be pretty but then again I havent welded much since I got out of high school. Should have pics up tommorrow.

Today I got bored and decided to build a homemade skidplate. I know that I should just go buy one but im cheap and going through college so money is tight. I dont mind making it a little thicker than usuall ( I would rather it be too thick than have a rock punch through my case ). So my question is- Is 1/4" extreme overkill? I have a lot of 1/4" plate and a lot of 1/8" as well.

You nailed it on the head with that one! Turns out that there was water in with my stator. Took some steal wool to the flywheel (had surface rust on it) and it cleaned up like new. Also cleaned the connections on my coil. Fat blue spark and my shee starts first kick (no choke on) after sitting for about 4-5 hours. Really cant that you enough for the advice AKheathen!

Ok me and my friend who has had a shee for a few years started to tinker with it yesterday. He said I was running it way to rich and told me to go to 32:1. Did and it still is a little hard to start. I just want to rule everything else out first before I buy another jet size. (im cheap...poor college kid) It runs 10 times better when its started now. It still has a little sputter at 1/2 throttle before hitting the powerband. Also, when my barn is heated up to bout 70* it popped right off like a champ. So, stepping up on the main is the way to go?

Bowl numbers are 1-1, 1-1P, 1-2, 1-2P

Cleaned out my carbs again today and adjusted my float level. Dont have any gas to in it right now but will get some tommorrow. I did everything by the book and checked my jets. They were all stock except for the main jet. Book says that its supposed to be a 200 but this is a 300. Also looking at my other set of carbs, the set that I have on it right now are a newer set (after 1990) and the other set is pre 1990. I think that is why I kept haveing floatbowl issues. I would have both right side bowls and they would still be diffrent. So, it there any way to tell a diffrence beween newer and older carb bowls? And is my jetting correct for my mods?

Ok when I cleaned them last (yesterday) all the jets were clean. I will yank them off again tommorrow to see what jets they are (wasnt even thinkin about it). Also will make sure my float settings are right. So heres my mods (that i know of): bored .70 over T5 pipes V Force reeds w/ carbon fiber reeds Stock head And elevation here is KS is 860ft. above sea level

I know that this thread has probably gone on way to long and I should have found my problem by now but im still pretty stump'd. I no longer have my power problem when warmed up. Starting it is a diffrent issue. The choke is working as far as i know - pull the choke out when warmed up and running and it starts smoking more and wants to die. But besides that, when its running at idle there is gas comming out the overflow on the carbs. Correct me if im wrong but that means that my floats are not set right? Also when cleaning my reeds, there is a small gap in the reeds where the pedal meets the cage. Would this cause hard starting? Another thing is my float bowls. The one that is on the carb with the choke lever has one hole for the choke tube and the choke jet is at the bottom of this hole. The other carb bowl has 2 holes (one like the other bowl and then one right next to it but its smaller and shorter. Bowls are stamped "1-1P" and "1-2"). And one last thing - is there a choke just in both bowls or just the one with the choke lever? Like I said I should have found my problem by now and im looking though my Clymers repair manual like crazy to find some awnsers. Any input would be great.

Ok now im pretty sure i got the same bowls. When I was putting the carbs back together I remeber looking at both bowl side by side. They both have holes for the choke pickup tube. Should only one bowl have this?

Ok so i put on my new intakes. Cleaned both carbs and reed/reed cages. Needless to say my shee still wont start. It will start a little easier but its still really hard. Also, i noticed that when its running, it seems to run alot better with the choke halfway out. When the choke is off, it idles really weird. It takes 5 or 6 seconds for it to come back to an idle when i have the choke off. Halfway, the idle come back down like it should. I took a look at my plugs after i had it idleing (with choke halfway out) and they were a little oily but not as bad as before. Any ideas of what could be happening? Also, can someone get me some pics of both carb bowls? I think i might have 2 of the same bowls.