zr2highrider

Also make sure its not your CDI that went bad. I had the same issues when my banshee wasnt getting spark. Tested the coil and I got nothing. Bought a new coil of e-bay, put it on and nothing. Turns out it was my cdi. Lucky, I had a friend who had a banshee at the time and just started swapping parts; coil and still got no spark. When I swapped the CDI it ran like a champ.

Ya they pretty much are the wally world specials. Like I said I just dont have the money to buy trail techs right now. I just saw these at oriellys while I was looking for trailer lights and thought that they would look better than stock headlights. They are 35w halogen bulbs so I dont think that I should run into to many problems. Thanks for the help.

I recently bought some new headlights for my banshee. I wanted to go for a diffrent look so I saw some cheap crome fog lights (kinda look light trail techs). I know I should go with some trail techs but im cheap and dont have $100-$150 to drop on headlights. The are 35w lights and my question is do I need to do a DC conversion? It doesnt say anything on the instructions about AC or DC.

hit me up sometime. tag is drtrider08. play alot of COD and reach

KLJ700 thanks for the reply. I can get to the unlock screen no problem. Thing is that when I talked to T-mobile they didnt want to hand over the unlock code. They said that I had to have T-mobile. Im just trying to save a few bucks and hopeing that someone on here can possibly get me the code.

I just picked up a blackberry 8220 from a friend of mine. He gave it to me for free. Problem is that I have a AT&T sim card and its a T-Mobile phone. I can get to the unlock screen. Is there anyone on here who can get me the unlock code?

Finally got the bolt out tonight. Needless to say there was nothing left of my needle bearings. Bolt came out in one piece...just had to beat the crap out of it for it to come out. Also had to heat up the swingarm pretty good to get it out. Hopefully get around to putting everyting back together tommorrow. Thanks everyone for the advise!

Ya i have it on a jack and its still a no go. This thing was ran hard and put away wet. I put quite a bit of wd-40 on it and am letting it sit. Im fairly confident that its the first time that its been replaced. All pressure is off - jack under it and have the shock/dogbone unbolted. Im taking pretty good whacks at it with a 3lb sledge and this thing isnt even budging.

ok, so how in the hell do you get the swingarm bolt out? I have used a ton of WD-40 on it, used a piece of brass so i dont mess up my threads, and still getting no were. And yes the nut is off of it.

Im going to be replacing the axle bearings and swingarm bushings on my banshee this week. I have a clymer repair manual and it doesnt sound that hard to do. Parts are on the way and im wanting to know what I should and shouldnt do. I have heard some people putting a grease zerk on the carrier but would this help in anyway? Thanks

Will do. See ya up there the 17'th

Ya im goin to be up there for all the other climbs.

Ya I saw ya run up there. You got a pretty sweet quad! My name is Cameron and was runnin the black and blue banshee with the white seat. Im new to climbin but have done it for fun on dirtbikes. I picked up this quad about 6 months ago and im still gettin used to it. But anyways, im looking for some cylinders to run in the stock class but for right now im kinda stuck with these ones. I just dont want to piss anyone off and im just being honest. Im just doin the "run what ya brung." Other than the ported cylinders, im pretty much running everything else stock internal wise and same with the frame. (i got pipes, reeds, and k&n pods) So what is all boils down to is it ok to run my quad up there in the stock class untill i get some diffrent cylinders or should i move up to the modified class?

Ok, this may sound like a dumb question but its got me thinking. I ran my first hill climb last weekend in the stock 2 stroke atv class in troy. I was wondering what you can and cant have done to your engine. I got on kingofthehill.org and couldnt find anything. I have ported cylinders and dont want to run in the moddified class. (No offence but you guys are crazy...and crazy fast). I ran a 8.5 and a 8.1 and just wanting some more power to get into the 7's.

No tors and the idiot before me took the keyswitch off. Took the entire wiring harness out today and sodderd all connections so my wiring is golden. I was able to back my freinds shee up close to mine and just plug my stator wires into his cdi. Cranked on my bike and saw spark on his. Kind of a weird jack up way to see if my stator is good but its good for sure. So my cdi is toast...

I am getting no spark on my shee. Rode it last week and then one day it just doesnt have spark. Stator ohms out so im pretty sure its good. Took flywheel off to take a look at it. No cracks or broken wires. Cleaned flywheel and put it back on. Pickup gap is good and pickup coil ohms out. Basicly rewiring the hole bike. Getting a new ignition coil (on the way form ebay). Could my cdi have taken a crap? I have a friend with an 02 shee and was goin to hook my cdi into his but hes got different connectors. Is there any way you can check your cdi without swappin it out to another bike? Is there something else im missing?

Heres my $0.02. Check EVERYTHING. I went through what your doin about 2 months ago. I was syncing my carbs then all of a sudden, my shee locked up. Thought the top end blew or a crank bearing. Tore the top end down and it was still locked up. Turned out to be one of the bolts that hold the pickup coil on had come out and wedged itself between the pickup and the flywheel. Ended up doin a top end because it was sloppy. Possibly a ring broke and got caught in an exhaust port?

Ok, this is going to sound kinda redneckish but can you run a dual coil setup on the stock stator? Like I said, this is going to sound very backwoods so here goes. What I was thinking is running two dirtbike coils on in place of the blown original one. I have a few old dirtbikes laying around and always used them for old clutch and brake handles. This would only be a temperary fix and would get a new coil here in a few weeks. I would just splice the original orange wire into two and ground the coils to the bolts holding it to the frame. Please let me know if this would work.

Unscrewed the caps and tested at the wires and got nothing. Took wires off and tested at the coil and I still get nothing. Im having a buddy come over with his shee this weekend and we are goin to swap the coil and cdi just to make sure but im 99% sure I fried my coil.

Yes its stock coil. Cap to cap I get nothing on the meter.

I was out riding my shee the other day and today it wont start. I was getting absolutly no spark. First thing I though was that my stator took a dump. I checked it with a ohm meter and it was checked out. I know CDI's dont go out that often. Checked the coil and did the pimary test as is says in the Clymer repair manual. It says the resistance should be like .28 ohms to .38 ohms. It was at .5 or .6. Does this mean my coil crapped out? Or should I do the secondary test?

When I was out riding today i did notice a slight sputter when i hit wot. It was right before I hit the powerband. Basicly I would be going as a decent clip in 3rd and just punch it. It would have just a slight hesitation before the band and then once I got into the powerband, it just takes off like it should (if I ever got decent tires to hook up). So I should be stepping up the mains. 320 as a good start?

Ok here my bolt ons/mods. T-5's, K&N clamp on pods, .40 overbore w/ wiseco pistons, ported cylinders, VForce 2 reeds. 310 mains w/ 27.5 pilots. 1.5 turns out on the air screw. Everything else is stock. (no timing plate...yet) As for my porting....well, it doesnt look the best. Looks like a 2 year old did it. Didnt even polish it. It was there when I got the quad. Elevation in LV, KS is 840 ft. above sea level. So is 310's to low? Just some stuff I was reading up on... My pipes are discolored in the front of the headpipe right out the exhaust. Its not a blue color either. Its like a brown. Is this from running it to lean or to rich? They were like this when I got the quad as well. Also, it smokes at idle but more on my choke side. Is this normal?

I just got done with my top end and was wondering what position I should have me needle in. I cant remeber what clip it was at the last time I cleaned my carbs and was just wanting to get in the ballpark. My mods: .40 overbore w/ wiseco's, ported cylinders, VF 2 reeds, T-5's, K&N pods, 310 mains with 27.5 pilots (1.5 turns out) on stock carbs. Rest of motor is stock. Blows a little smoke out at idle and when first starts up. Plugs look about right but there is a little hesitation right of idle. So my question is do i need to move the needle or are my jets off?

Here is the exhaust. You cant tell by the pic but someone has been in there with a dremel or something. Like I said the pics arent the best. Also, what gas should I be running? Is 91 going to be ok or should I run something a little stronger?