zr2highrider

Here are some pics of the port job. Not great pics but the best my phone could do.

ya i tried that too

Here are the specs on my motor: New .40 over wiseco's. Stock head (no milling done to it). Stock bottom end and tranny. T5 pipes and silencers. K&N pods. VF2 reeds w/ carbon reed pedals. Ported cyylinders. 27.5 Pilots with 310 mains. Stock carbs. Thats bout it as far as I know. Running Lucas 2 stroke oil @ 32:1 It runs great when started. I dont use the choke because it about 70* here in Kansas. Starting method: Turn on gas, turn on ignition switch and start kicking. Around 20 kicks then it starts to sputter like it wants to start. Have to give it a good brap to keep it going. Once it warms up it idles just fine. It has some bottom end and doesnt bog or anything once im rolling. Starting from a dead stop is a little hard when its still a little cold but its not terrible. Im going out to ride some more today. I will start runnin 91 octane on it asap. A friend of mine (who happens to be a mechanic) said that more than likely it was my port job thats keeping it from starting. As for air leaks, im pretty sure i got all of those worked out. I will check tonight when im riding though. Thanks for all the input guys and I can get pics of the port job tommorrow.

Got a extra set of plugs today and was about to go do a plug chop. I have one main question though...from what i read, a plug chop is only going to tell me if my mains are off, correct? I though that starting issues were mainly with the pilot jet if your jetting is off. Correct me if im wrong. I threw in new plugs after the rebuild. I only have about 2 hours or so on them. They look neither lean nor rich. (not oil soaked or super clean...just an overall darker brown)

27.5 pilots, 310 mains. choke jet is stock

Im pretty sure my pickup gap is good. I just used an old credit card to check it. Long story short, the pickup gas is the reason I rebuilt my engine. One of the screws that holds the pickup on came out when running and wedged itself between the flywheel and pickup....thought I seized a crank bearing. Needless to say I made sure those screws had locktight on them. Probably get new plugs tommorrow and do a plug chop to check the jetting. Thanks for the input!

I just got my banshee back together about a week ago. It runs like a champ and I think I have it tuned about right. The only problem is that it still takes about 20 kicks to get it started. Top end doesnt have 2 hours on it yet. I followed everything by the book. Once its warm it starts in 1 kick. Here is what I think could be wrong: A: Bad reeds - I have Vforce 2's. How do you check to see if they are bad? Hold them up to light and see if you can see light between the pedals and the cage? I can see a little but not much. (can get pics if needed) B: Port job - Apparently the guy who bored my cylinders said that they were ported "within an inch of their life." I have to agree with him on this one... the porting does look a little outragous. But would this cause hard starting? (can get pics if needed) C: Timing possibly? I'm pretty sure its not timing. I dont have an adjustable timing plate but im not ruling it out quite yet. Any ideas of what could be wrong would be a great help. Running Lucas 2 stroke oil 32:1 on 87 octane. My mods: New .40 over wiseco's, T5's, VF 2 reeds, ported cylinders, K&N pods.

X2 on what tundish said

Ya i know about those tabs lol. Im just following my clymer repair manual. It has a picture of the actual clutch metal plate and it has teeth that grab the clutch hub. This picture has a tab on the outside of the steels. (and no its not the fiber disks). What my book says is to put the first metal plate in with the tab pointing up. Then it says to put on the next fiber plate. After that, it says to put on the next steel plate but instead of putting it with the tab stait up, it says to rotate it at a 60* angle or some sorta bs like that. Since my steels dont have a tab on the outside I was wondering if or how I would do this.

So wile my cylinders are getting bored I decided to take a look at my clutch. When I tore into the clutch, I noticed that it did not have a "cushion ring." Is it absolutely necessary to have one? Also, my clutch plates (the metal ones) dont have a "tab" on any of them. Is this because they are aftermarket? And because they are different, is there any order that I need to put them in?

Are you talking about the nut that holds on the clutch hub and basket? If so, it is 1-1/4" socket that fits it. Its kinda of a pain to get off. Make sure the holding tab is bent back so you can get the socket on the nut.There is a special tool to get it off but I really didnt want to buy something I was going to use once or twice so I made one. Whatever you do DO NOT use a screwdriver and wedge it between the hub and basket. Happend to me and clutch baskets arent cheap.

I grew up on bikes so im gona say twist.

Its going to be a fresh bore so I will deffinatly make sure the ports are chamfered. Just make sure that there are no burrs right? Anyways, thanks for all the input! I will make sure that i lube everything up and I will try to keep the Coors away for a little wile!

I just got my top end rebuild kit today. 65mm wiseco's, rings, wristpins, c-clips, needle bearings, and gaskets. I was wondering if there was anything that I needed to know about rebuilding this top end. I have only done one other rebuild on a 2 stroke and it was an old DT175. I have a clymer repair manual that I follow to the tee. I know these things arent that hard but was just wondering if there was anything that I should "double check" or watch out for. Any extra advice would be much appreciated!

My frame is about the same color. I like it and with my gold rims, my girlfriend says it looks like a wrx

I think mine is a .5. Didint have any luck starting. Last week it started and I started to tune it the best I could. Gave it a brap on the throttle, heard a clunk, and it died. Tore the cylinders off and they were fine but the piston/cylinder gap was .020. Thats why it was hard starting. As for why the engine stopped (It wasnt my top end btw...) it was one of the screws for the pickup in my flywheel housing. Came out and lodged itsself between my flywheel and flywheel cover....no damage done but pissed that I didnt look at it before I tore my engine down!

ya know, if people sell "turbo chargers" on ebay for banshee's (just a fan on the intake that does nothing) there has got to be someone out there running a injected banshee

Not to jack your thread or anything but I was wondering the same thing about my port job. Can get more pics if needed. Here is the pics.

and one other thing before I forget. My bore was 64.64mm. Will a 64.75mm (.030) piston be enough to clean up my bore or should I move on up to a 65mm?

Thanks guys. I used a wiseco in my XR200 a few years ago. Since this is my first 2 stroke top end rebuild I didnt know anything about the coatings or anything or even if it mattered. Should be orderin up some wiseco's tonight.

I finally got enough money to do a cheap top end rebuild ($250 for a piston kit). Just looking on ebay I found a few brands for around $200. I just wanted to get a set of pistons that are reliable and will last me a long time. Any thoughts on what brand I should get? (need piston - 64.75mm, rings, bearings, and gasket kit)

Is there any way to repair a crack like that though? Like I said its not very big... hell if my dad didnt point it out I wouldnt have noticed it. Tig welder possibly?

Ok, I got to looking at my cylinders more and found that when someone did the porting, they got a little to trigger happy on the dremmil. On the cylinder that doesnt have the carbon buildup, there is a small crack were my intake bolt holes are. Its not a huge crack but a hairline. Could this make one cylidner not have carbon buildup?

So my banshee froze up on me the other day. Took the engine out and started to dig into the top end. Come to find out, it was a bolt that came loose on the pickup in the flywheel housing. Bolt came out, got jammed bewteen the pickup and the flywheel and wouldnt let my engine kick over. No major damage done but now to the point. When I took my top end apart I noticed that on one piston there was a lot more carbon build up than on the other. Anyone got ideas of why this happend? Running to rich on that one side? Or could a airleak cause this to happen? Here is a pic... Another question (probably been asked and awnsered a bit..) My bore was 64.64mm. My piston was 64.44mm. Thats a .20 mm diffrence but it had to rings (probably why I was getting about average compression). That to me is a pretty sloppy bore. So, my question is how much can you bore a set of cylinders before the walls start getting weak and I loose reliability?

ok, got 27.5 pilots and it STILL wont start. im getting gas, spark, and compression. i really dont know what the hell is wrong with this thing. choke works. 99% sure its not electrical - getting spark. i am not running a key switch and im pretty sure its not the problem. carbs are sync'd to the best of my abbility. it does seem to be snappier from no throttle to wot. the only way that i can get it to start is with my ketchup bottle still lol. any other thoughts on what could be wrong???