zr2highrider

Is it rusted to the crank? Mine was stuck in my last banshee. I took a screwdriver and hammer and LIGHTLY tapped on the edge of the key. I cannot stress that enough, LIGHTLY!!! I almost sent the screw driver through my crank seal. If that doesn't work, spray some WD40 on it and let it sit overnight. Should loosen it up a bit.

wouldnt happen to have stock upper j-arms?

Well i was looking on ebay. $40 for all balls tie rod ends.Im thinking about going with them. I didnt know if going the stock route was better or not. As for the J arm...well, its bent. My bushings are bad and was going to order a set of bushings this weekend. It just bent my j arm a little by the shock. I know it sounds backwoods but I think im just going to bend it back (will post pics). I gota make it till June when school is paid off and I can afford some extended J arms. I would love to go with an a-arm but getting a frame plus the extended arms, its just not cost effective right now. The only reason i am bending the j arm back is because Kansas hill-climb season starts in a month. I dont want to miss it.

Well, I was riding my banshee today and was getting on it pretty good. Went to turn into my driveway and was getting on the brakes. I heard a "pop" and then my right wheel turns sideways. You can guess what happens next. Front tire gets thrown sideways, rolled, and grabs, I get launched onto the pavement, bike tumbles into a ditch. I get some pretty good road rash and the shee gets a tweek'd upper j-arm, and a broken tie rod end. So, my question is: 1- has this happened to anyone else or am I the only luck SOB that this happened to? and 2- who makes a good set of HD or billet tie rods and ends. Thanks Cam

I put mine in the back of my truck and back my truck up to my house. Put your rear bumper as close as you can to the house so people cant get the tailgate open. Insurance is always nice too.

Thats if your up for fabin up some j arms. Pay ya decent price for em.

Holy sh*t if it aint richie petty. Its Cameron, went to PR together. Didnt know you were into shee's. You think you could fab me up some extened j-arms? (possibly a arms - looking to get an a arm frame) Hit me up if ya wana ride in the bottoms or over at culbertsons track.

Thats what I mean. I dont know if im just paranoid about blowing up my bottom end or if something is actually wrong. I mean I had an 98 shee and it never did this. From what it looked like on that one youtube video, a few people have had this and still ride. I would rather find out what it is and fix it before it is something thats going to cost $$$$.

Well I got a video of it but not running. Doing a clutch on it and also a water pump. Volume sucks on my ipod so you kind of have to turn the volume up to hear the noise. I found a video on youtube of what it sound like when it is running.

Well, im really doupting its the stator. I was leaning more towards crank. Im just trying to diagnose this thing without replacing a bunch of stuff that doesnt need it. Im going to look into it deeper tommorrow. Hey tyler pm me about BansheeHQ day. I should be able to make it up there. I would rather someone take a look and give me an opinion on were to start who has more exprience. Taking a video tommorrow. Will keep updated. Thanks, Cameron

I have had this issue ever since i got my banshee about a month ago but have been doing nothing but working on it. I notice that when my shee is ideling, i get a rattle noise on the left side. Yanked the stator cover and stator, no loose screws or anything. When I give it just a little gas, it goes away. My clutch makes a noise (needs new cushions in the basket) but I havent heard a noise like this on my left side. I took the stator cover off yesterday in investigate some more and didnt really find anything. I only noticed one thing; when I turn my stator back and forth, I can hear a little "ting" or "clunk". Its not much at all but I didnt remember my last shee doing this. The stator has no play in it so I doupt it would be a bearing. I am about to post a video up on here because I am really baffled. Funds are short right now so I cant really dig into the top end for about another month or so. Any ideas on what could be going on? Thanks, Cameron

yanking the clutch cover off tommorrow to take a look at it... this is a new shee to me so i honestly dont know if its a stocker or not.

I recently aquired my 89 banshee. It runs great but is having problems overheating. I just bought a new aluminum radiator, still boiling the coolant. Its not overflowing, its just when i shut it off after it has been run hard, it sounds like air bubbles comming up through the radiator. This lasts a minute or so. I have put it through a few heat cycles to try to get the air out but still no sucess. Top of rad is hot while the bottom is warm so its cycling coolant. I am 99% sure its my jetting. Took one of the carbs off tonight to see if I could get some help and advice on jets. The mods are listed are what i know are done to the bike. The cylinders look heavily ported for stockers- the guy who I bought it from said he had it as a drag bike/trail bike (hard for me to believe). They have boost ports added. He said that the engine was built by K&T performance. Has pro design cool head - unsure dome size. He said run 91 pump gas in it so I dont think they are too radical. T-5 pipes and silences +3 timing. Has an adjustable cdi on it. +3 is all I can go before I put it to +5. Looks like Rad Valves for the reeds. Aluminum cages. Looks like 1/2 inch reed spacers(?) also. 99% sure stock stroke and bore. Im also running 40:1. No airbox lid but running k&n airfilter. Carbs are t34 mikuni's. The mains are 320's and the pilot looks like it says 50. The air screw is 2 turns out. Elevation here in LV, Kansas is 850 ft. The thing that gets me is that this thing flat out runs. Doesnt make any funny noises other than when I shut it off and starts gurgling. I am going to do a plug chop tommorrow and post pics. If there is anyone on here that has any advice on ANYTHING please chime in. Thanks, Cam

Currently running Lucas oil semi synthetic 40:1. Used to run golden spectro in my old bike with good results. Next rebuild probably switching to Klotz.

Got mine in tonight. Looks pretty good but one of my tabs is bent. I havent looked at my old one to see if its bent but it should be pretty easy to straiten out. As for the quality, welds look pretty good but I would definatly polish and put the stock cap on it. The new one looks nice but is a little thin for my liking and kind of a b*tch to take on and off. Anyone know what the stock cap is rated at? This one is 1.1. Cant wait to put it on and get riding again. Heres a pic.

Bought mine tonight off ebay. My old rad' has a hole in it causing a gurgle sound and overheating. $80 shipped to my door. Will post a review as soon as I get it.

Thats crazy. I just got rid of my 01 426 about a month ago for a 1988 j arm. The 426 is a good bike but i just missed the powerband. Decomp cam or 03-05 yz450 cams are the way to go.

Im back to an electrical issue now. I was riding yesterday and it started cutting out on the left cylinder. Took it home, and started to test everything. Stator checked out good at 15.6ohms, pickup was at 126. Took the coil off the bench test it. Tested it negative to positive on the terminal ends and I got nothing. Negative to plug boot; only 1700. So im 99% sure my coil is bad. My last shee did this to me also and i bought a new coil but it turned out to be the cdi as well. Does one tend to go and then the other? I plan on heading up to F.A.S.T. next weekend to pick up a coil, should I pick up a cdi as well?

Ok i think that i have narrowed down the ignition problem-bad plug wire. I could wiggle the right plug wire and it would stop running on that cylinder. As for my air leak.... Its not all the time. Thats the thing thats getting me. It will idle fine one minute, give it some gas, goes back down just a little above idle, give it another brap, and it falls back to an idle. I sprayed gas around the intakes and didnt change idle. Ideas? Dirty carbs? Not synced?

So if finally got another banshee. Its a 89 j arm with some work done to it. I was playing around on it yesterday and once I got done riding, I was going to play with the idle - it acts like your giving it gas at times and revs up and at other times, it goes right back down to an idle. Thats besides the point. I shut it off, and then tried to start it again. I noticed the idle was once again off but one of my pipes was completely cool while the other one was warm. (the bike had plenty of time to cool down - so it was like a cold start). I checked and changed the plug that wasnt firing and still had the same issue and acted like it was running on one cylinder. I killed it once more and tried to start it again and I got no fire at all. So I got on here looking for awnsers, went back to ohm out the stator ect, ect, and remeber seeing a post on the "smack test" on the cdi. I tried it and the shee fired right up. Any ideas of whats going on? Is the "smack test" complete bs? Could my speratic idle be ignition problems? Or could it be my stator or coil? Thanks.

Well, it turns out that it was not my cdi. Its my woodruf key on my crank. My flywheel nut came loose and threw my timing off so it wouldnt start. BUT when i took my cdi off to look at it, i did notice a large crack were the wires connect to it in the rubber. Regardless im going to get a new cdi and not a used one. So now my concern turns towards the woodruf key. Should i put locktight on the flywheel threads? Is there any other way to keep my key in the crank? Thanks for the advice.

I was riding out on my track the other day and my shee starts to cut out really bad. It acted like it was running one one cylinder, didnt want to go into the powerband, wanted to bog out, and wouldnt idle. I take it back to the shop and took a plug out to check spark. I got nothing. Stator ohm'd out and my coil was in the ballpark. (clymer repair manual says .42 max mine was at .6. Could this be my problem as well?) Checked all my connections and they are good. So here are my questions. 1: Could my coil be bad? (i bought this one last year) 2: I have heard of a "smack test" on a cdi to see if its bad (smack it with your hand and see if it works) does this work? 3: What brand cdi is best? Should I buy an aftermarket one that adjusts my timing? I bought a used one off ebay last year when i had this problem before. It was stock and now im having this problem again. Any advise would be great.

Pilot is a 27.5. Main is a 320. Should I bump it up to a 30? Mods: VF2's, ported cylinders (looks like a 2 year old did it), T-5's, 66mm bore w/ wiseco prolights. I run 32:1 Lucas with 91 octane.

I have had my banshee for about a year and a half now and it is still hard as hell to start. I have to dump a little gas in the back of the carbs to get it to fire off. I have gone through everything tha I can think of to try to get it to start easier. Good spark, New top end last year, clean carbs, choke works, ect ect. I have VF2 reeds and I can see a little light around the edges of the cages (between pedals and cages). I found some reed pedals on FAST's web site so I might be heading up there to get some but would this cause hard starting?