So Cal Suspension

1500 quid, eh. Maybe it's one of those new ones with the aloomineeum frame. Did he give you a packet of crisps with that motorbike? Fancy a kick in the nuts, or are you taking a piss?

We've used LiPo batteries on every bike we've built to run lights, and fuel pumps, and have had great success over the last 3 years. We use the cheap "HobbyFans" brand from eBay. Straight from hong kong. No issues to speak of. I've also bought an ungodly amount of these... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Practical-New-AA-12V-1800MAH-Ni-MH-Rechargable-Battery-Pack-3-/290687227550?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item43ae4f169e One of these batteries ran two of my lights for 90 minutes at full power.

The problem I have come across in my past experimentation with simple bridge rectifiers, is in order to avoid the pulsing that inherently comes from this sloppy AC current, you still must run a capacitor in line to "absorb" the pulses. After rectification, obviously, it would then be DC "pulses". To rectify, and cap a 10w 12v lead to each light... it would be safe to assume that a 12v 15,000uF capacitor would be needed. (Utilizing the general rule of thumb of .0015 F per watt, converts to 1500uF per watt of 12v DC current.) Just for visualization purposes, Philips manufactures a 12v 14,000uF Capacitor that measures roughly 1.4" in diameter, by about 3 1/4" in length, with two screw terminals. It retails for $6.99. One of these would be needed per light, in addition to a bridge rectifier capable of an output greater than 860ma @ 12vdc, with a nominal input of 9-36vac. I haven't found anything with a forward voltage of 12vdc+ with such a low AC input. I haven't done a ton of research on this, other than what I've mentioned above, as my lights are intended for DC current, and DC current only. The DC Conversion is such a simple process, that investing in an alternative "bolt on" application would never pay itself back. Let's face it, lol, a lot of people have trouble with the basic DC Conversion, wiring and soldering in bridge rectifiers and capacitors would be like brain surgery.

Just refill the trans and ride... there is a vent back there that is supposed to have a tube on it.

I made more of these today.

Wanted: Transvestites Daily

This thread sucks.

Everything's fine but your jetting. 9 times out of 10 a hot running banshee is attributed to lean jetting. I've ridden my bike in the glamis summer heat at 115+ for hours and hours, and it never overheated...

What spring rate is on it? It should have a decimal number, 5.4 5.8 ... 8.1 8.9 etc... I've heard several people tell me that their race-tech shocks were stiff. I would imagine race-tech builds shocks for more racers than they do recreational riders. I set up every shock custom for that rider, and their specific requests. In my opinion, there is no cookie cutter set up for a certain weight and terrain. Unfortunately, more people out there don't have the time, or desire to put forth the same attentiveness.

In the video I posted? It's two words, dude. "Ha!" and "Gay!".

In just a rebuild, it's just a rebuild with a one piece billet seal head. If you want one revalved for your weight and riding style, I do a custom Eibach spring, revalve of the stock piston, and a billet seal head. $218.00 plus shipping. No other hidden fees.

cometic or don't bother.

I can rebuild your stocker, or sell you one already rebuilt ready to go. Your shock = $119.00, Core shock = $164.00

Stock a-arms are not junk... you have to take certain people's advice with a grain of salt around here... they have lasted some people 15-20 years. I would recommend keeping your stock a-arms over going with YFZ450 a-arms, to keep your geometry the same, and shock length a stock banshee length. If you run the YFZ450 arms, you will have to special order shocks to fit those a-arms. If you decide to change your a-arms down the road, you will be GREATLY limited on what you can purchase using your existing shocks.

I'd go at least 310's, maybe 320's, 27.5. You will probably end up at 300, and 27.5, but 310-320 will get you close. Better to be rich than lean.

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/squish-mystery-not-47719/

How about a rebuilt, revalved, and resprung stock rear shock with a race-tech gold valve kit, new heims, bottom out bumper, polished, and powdercoated any color you want... It'd cost you $527.00 to have the shock built.

Hi.

Not yet. I have about 6 of them.

I have a rewound RS 200w stator from Gary. Sheerider1026. The thing is beautiful. I'll be getting another one from him for another build.

I think the only feedback given was the one post in this thread in which he fried his CDI. He was supposed to report back after he replaced the CDI, but haven't heard back.

Fact. He's had his nose so deep in tyler's rectum for the last 6 months, he has absolutely no idea what is going on around here. And by nose in the rectum, I mean that his mouth is wrapped around tylers sack at the same time. slurp slurp slurp slurp

The good news is NICB is only about 3 or 4 months behind...