So Cal Suspension

Your DC Conversion and regulator should be isolated from your ignition. If you are running your CDI and coil off of your battery, you've done it all wrong. The DC Conversion is meant to ONLY isolate the lighting circuit, and rectify it to DC Current.

^^^ you can't be fucking serious. That is what you guys race on!?! FUCK THAT SHIT... the tires aren't even set up strategically, they're just dumped there. What a fucking shit hole. I also see where the tires stop at about 150ft out in the left lane. You know... where the bikes actually start building speed? You wouldn't catch me even spectating at a place like that. I hope they get shut down.

Does anyone have any pictures of this track? That news story said he hit a light pole. What the FUCK are light poles doing close enough to a track that an ejected rider could hit one?

"premium" is all I'm going to say. It might not have been exactly 6, but they were all "name brand" arms. I won't be any more specific than that, until there are hard numbers, or JL decides he wants me to post the video.

Good point about swing arm flex. It is probably much more noticeable on asphalt for those of you who race on tarmac. JL Engineering has done a TON of research and testing on swing arms, and flex. On Thursday, I watched the video he made testing 6 different brand +8" swing arms. You would be SHOCKED to see how much some of these "premium" swing arms flex. It's unreal. That being said, JL's ladder bar is a miniscule amount of flex in comparison to the other high end swing arms. STY's swingarm looks great. He's addressed, and triangulated all of the key areas. People often overlook triangulating the pivot tube. Sure, lots of manufacturers put small gussets near the pivot tube, but nothing like you did. Also, the plating forward of the shock mount is a HUGE improvement. Lots of drag guys don't want an overly strengthened swing arm because of weight, but I just don't get it. You're going to lose more MPH and ET with your swing arm flopping around like a piece of cooked spaghetti than you will by the 1 or 2 lbs you'll gain by have a strong swing arm. Take a piss and a shit before you go race, and it'll make up for it. Great work.

We have a friend in our group who ran a 3/8" fuel line from their toy hauler fuel tank and plumbed it straight into a quick disconnect. He has a splitter on the main fuel line. He can either run it off the tank, or the incoming line from the hauler. He runs it all night to charge his batteries for the following day. Works great.

Definitely floats. Also, for the rear, we're going to be tuning a custom built stock rear shock on Mike's 535 hillshooter next week in Utah. It's 12" eye to eye.

So, is he saying that my California registration alone won't work?

The reason is, like I said in the PM (Posting here in case anyone searches) is because I only sell complete bushing kits. I do agree with starwriter above, sometimes Works can be a pain in the ass. If you talk to Tim or Sandy (guy, head engineer) they usually are right on the money. I've never had an order messed up, but I would imagine it does happen. I usually only order about $1500 in parts a month, so I'm not a HUGE customer of theirs, but I do enough with them to know who to talk to. Elka, on the other hand, has taken forever to get me my parts order, and when it finally showed up, it was completely wrong. Luckily John at Elka said that he is overnighting me the right parts on Tuesday since the Canadialandians have a holiday on Monday, or something gay. I will, however, give him credit for admitting a screw up and fixing it on their dime.

I was going to suggest that the rear spring preload needed to be adjusted, but I only know suspension stuff.

Odd... All the parts for my 535 were readily available... Just saying, of course.

pm sent

That's usually something they do on blaster shocks... Then again, Works never builds two shocks alike, so who really knows.

Hm... short shafts with spacers. That's really strange.

What is the length of the shaft, overall? Also, that top shaft looks bent. Anyways, you can run them either way, but those spacers are installed on shocks that are set up for stock width arms. It keeps the frame from smashing into the ground on big jumps. No spacers are generally for +2 or +3 arms depending upon the length of the shaft.

In california if you buy a custom frame, or build one, CHP will issue you a vin. It took me about 20 minutes to get a vin for my sand car when it was done.

Well, I think it's pretty definitive now... This thread needs some cheese.

I think it's... different, but 3 wheeler dudes are always weirdos... Sorry. Is your name Jim Thacker?

Because sand > dirt

I wish more people had your mentality, then there would be less people in my dunes.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/6362831709/ I don't recommend going on, though.

Wow, a 300lb spring is almost exactly what a stock spring is. A stock spring is 5.4kg/mm which equates out to a 302lb spring. I really don't see a reason why they would change the spring. I would be getting in contact with them and find out exactly why in the hell they changed the spring in the first place. It's probably safe to assume they charged you for it? The clicking should always be there. My bet is that the small part I am talking about is missing. I would have just rebuilt and revalved your shock, and left the stock spring alone. There's no sense in throwing money at a spring. Are you saying your shock IS stiff, or you want it stiffer?

Whew... Dodged that bullet. Anyways, I can try to help you out. The rebound adjuster controls MOST of the adjustability on both the rebound, and compression side (It's hard to explain without physically showing you the workings of the adjuster, but just trust me on this). The compression adjuster controls about 25% of the total adjustability, and the other 75% is controlled by the rebound adjusterThere could be a couple reasons that it doesn't click. There are certain modifications that are done to the shock that eliminates the rebound adjustment. For example: The shock is being set up for specific static valving for a specific event/course/track where you absolutely don't want anything changing. The other scenario as to why it wouldn't click, is because parts are missing out of it. It is VERY common to lose a small part out of the shaft when the shock is being serviced. Unless you really know what you are doing, and do these shocks a LOT, it's easy to lose it. With that being said, the adjuster should still move on the rod end. It should still "thread" up and down. You'll have to really look at it, as it only moves about 1/4" total, but it should thread all the way up until the rubber is pushing up against the flat aluminum piece where the spring retainer sits. With that being said, what swingarm length, and what spring did they install? I can tell you what I would have put on it, and you can go from there.

Did I do your shock?

He would, if he double his Centrum Silver dose. But I think in all reality, he'd go psycho and start murdering you homos.