So Cal Suspension

OHHHHH shit... another Downunder rider. Lookup "dirtydownunder" on here. I believe he is from Perth. He's kinda gay though, he might ask you for nudie pics. Beware.

x2. I did some shocks for him and he sent the money order with his shocks. John is a great guy!

This was a rebuild, polish and powder job I did for Mike (RunDMC). I wish I would have taken more pics of this job. It came out awesome. It's just waiting on a new hose, and is loosely assembled here for the picture.

This set of Works came into me looking pretty rough. You can see the difference in the before and afters. They got the complete makeover. Powder, Polish, Rebuild and Revalve. This is a Works rear that had the same story. Rode hard and put away wet. And here she is, complete with powder and fully assembled.

LOL, did you really just bump the "Hime" joint thread?

Shit, with a lifetime warranty, how could you go wrong? I think I'll order a few sets for the buggy...

I've got some more time on my hands lately, and since I've been pretty busy doing shocks for members on here, I figured I'd offer a special for the month of November. Typically I do rebuilds for $75ea, plus the rebuild kits ($17-$34ea), and revalves for $85ea, plus the rebuild kits. For the month of November I can do aftermarket front or rear rebuilds for $65ea, plus the rebuild kits. I can also do rebuild/revalves for $75ea plus the rebuild kits. I don't charge for the valving plates. My labor costs INCLUDE, oil, nitrogen, and return shipping to the lower 48. I have almost 8 years of professional experience building suspension and the huge number of members who I've done shocks for on here can vouch for my quality of work. NO ONE can touch my turn around time (1 week), and I do not mark up part prices. I build shocks, mainly, to give me something to do in the evenings. Shop around, and you will notice that most places charge anywhere from $75-$145ea, and they charge you for nitrogen, oil, and shipping. I guarantee all of my work, and offer a 30 day guarantee on my revalves. If for whatever reason you aren't happy with the valving setup after I have done a revalve, I will re-do them as many times as necessary for free until you're happy. I have LOCAL sources for parts from Elka, Axis, Works, Race-Tech, Ohlins, and PEP. Stock Banshee Rear shock rebuilds, run $85ea, plus $40 for a new billet aluminum seal head, and I also do a Schrader valve conversion on the ressie, so you don't need the special needle fill tool to recharge the shock. (Usually charge $24 for that). For a revalve of the stock rear, send me a PM about prices. There are a few VERY good options for the stock rears. The picture below is the stock rear with the schrader conversion, with a polished stock reservoir (Also available). Spring powder coating is available as well, for $45ea for basic colors (red, blue, black, green, yellow, silver, white), and includes stripping the old spring of whatever coating is on there. PM me if you have any questions. Thanks.

bump.

k&n, send a PM to Loco about having this thread deleted. In the future, don't give multiple people your paypal information at one time to avoid something like this happening again.

The "banshee upgrade" they are referring to, is stock-for-stock swap. Works uses a progressive valving setup, rather than static valving. a 50lb difference won't be noticeable to 95% of riders as far as the valving is concerned. Being under-sprung is a possibility, but odds are the person who ran them on a blaster, ran them on extended a-arms, so they would be sprung heavier than stock. In my professional opinion, I think you would be happy running those shocks over stock.

Snop, what happened to your spring compressor that you made?

x100000. You WILL NOT find a higher quality subframe anywhere else.

I'm not sure who Hyper is, but make sure they are either Hypercoil, h&r or Eibach springs. DO NOT buy a Chinese spring. People who say they have them "custom made", come from China, and the stated spring rates are almost never right. I have a shock dyno, and have dyno'd about 10 shocks with the Chinese springs on them, and not ONE of them had the same spring rate, so just be careful. Some were off by as much as 1kg/mm. Also as far as the revalve goes... I am a works, race-tech, axis, and Fox dealer. I can do the revalve for you for less than half the labor that either of those companies charge, and I have parts in stock, ready to go, minus the spring. I would personally recommend the Race-tech gold valve kit, but not their seal head. I would run the Moose seal head. It runs about $37 bucks, and I have it in stock as well. PM me if you want some more info, and hard prices. I can have it done for you in about a week.

TTT

LOL, definitely quite a few.

Get a 9.6kg/mm. The size you need is 55mmx240mm. Eibach or hypercoil can make you any spring you want. On a stock swinger, you'd need about 8.23kg/mm. So with a +6, the 9.6kg/mm spring that is available from Eibach would be the sweet spot for you.

You probably need a new cap...

Bump, new prices.

King makes shocks for the Side by Sides. The Rhino shocks (don't remember if they're front or rears), are 18.25" eye to eye. So if your LT arms will accept a shock length close to that, you will be able to run Fox, King, Bilstein, SAW, or any other aftermarket shock manufacturer that makes Rhino shocks. Also, any of those companies will custom make you ANY shock you want. The only thing you need to be careful of is the O.D. of the coil spring, and make sure there won't be any binding of the spings and arms.

Anyone know where I can find a write up on putting a turbo GSXR motor in my banshee frame?

All three sets $900 shipped...

Alright guys, I want these gone, seriously... 325 shipped for the right side exit pipes, and 300 shipped for the one out each side set... I'm tired of them sitting in my living room...

Now that we know they're Ohlins... Parts MAY be available for them. Ohlins hasn't changed they're internal design in probably 15 years. The only thing that MIGHT need to be changed is the seal head. If you want, I can take a look at them, and get something to work.