So Cal Suspension

The Elka linkage works by moving where your lower shock mounts. It moves the mounting point "in" toward the motor. This does two things for a stock rear shock. If you're a lighter guy (120-140), it puts more leverage on your shock, making you feel "heavier" on the shock. On the flip side, if you're a heavier rider (200+) it will make your shock feel even softer. The second thing, is it allows more travel by moving that shock mount in. What limits your travel right now with a completely stock setup, is the travel of the shock. So by moving the pivot point in you get more travel. If you're not looking to soften up your ride, and give yourself more travel, stick with the stock link. Think about this too... with more down travel, it's harder to pick the back of the bike up and move it if you get stuck on a tight trail or something...

Set number 1 is sold! Next one to come up with 250 shipped gets set #2.

The ID on the flange is 45.75mm WITHOUT o-rings.

This shock is a stock Banshee rear that has the total treatment. Spring powder, polish, Race-Tech gold valve kit and schrader conversion.

You sir, deserve 1000 internets for posting a video of the problem you were trying to have solved. It would be awesome if everyone did that.

Yes they are.

Set #3 is SOLD! The one out each side set is gone.

Go ahead and download this Service Manual and if you have any questions after reading through that, feel free to ask. It should answer all of your questions.

Here I am Wakeboarding behind my weekend boat.

Your stock wiring and switch will be fine. Also, Just an FYI, just because you have a 200w stator, does not mean that all 200w goes to your lighting circuit. Some of that is designated for your ignition circuit (I'm not sure how much, though).

Scour eBay. There are tons of vendors on there selling waterproof strips at stupid low prices. They will wire right in to your stock tail light.

Front shock rebuilds are only $65ea! Rebuild/Revalves are only $75ea! Plus parts. SEE BELOW! For the month of November THROUGH THE END OF THE YEAR I am doing aftermarket front or rear rebuilds for $65ea, plus the rebuild kits. I can also do rebuild/revalves for $75ea plus the rebuild kits. I don't charge for the valving plates. My labor costs INCLUDE, oil, nitrogen, and return shipping to the lower 48. I have almost 8 years of professional experience building suspension and the huge number of members who I've done shocks for on here can vouch for my quality of work. NO ONE can touch my turn around time (1 week), and I do not mark up part prices. I build shocks, mainly, to give me something to do in the evenings. Shop around, and you will notice that most places charge anywhere from $75-$145ea, and they charge you for nitrogen, oil, and shipping. I guarantee all of my work, and offer a 30 day guarantee on my revalves. If for whatever reason you aren't happy with the valving setup after I have done a revalve, I will re-do them as many times as necessary for free until you're happy. I have LOCAL sources for parts from Elka, Axis, Works, Race-Tech, Ohlins, FOX, PEP and many others. Stock Banshee Rear shock rebuilds, run $85ea, plus $40 for a new billet aluminum seal head, and I also do a Schrader valve conversion on the ressie, so you don't need the special needle fill tool to recharge the shock. (Usually charge $24 for that). For a revalve of the stock rear, send me a PM about prices. There are a few VERY good options for the stock rears. The picture below is the stock rear with the schrader conversion, with a polished stock reservoir (Also available). Spring powder coating is available as well, for $45ea for basic colors (red, blue, black, green, yellow, silver, white), and includes stripping the old spring of whatever coating is on there. PM me, or email me HERE if you have any questions. Thanks.

Wow... haven't seen these shocks in years! I wonder if there are even parts available for them anymore? Definitely some cool shocks though!

Just dropped the price on these bad boys... get 'em while they're still available! http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=136284&st=0&p=1177215entry1177215

Alright guys, I'm bumping this one last time... any set of these pipes... $250 shipped... bottom dollar. I'll crush them before I sell them for less...

Wow, that sucks. I'm sure she was completely innocent, and minding her own business, not involved in anything shady whatsoever.

If you have the money to do it, I would. If you only ride dunes, you'll be fine for a while. It's the guys who ride in mud and water and shit that have problems with those cheapo heims.

Oh, sweet. I've been to Gordon's a few times, my preference is Glamis.

Just out of curiosity, why did you choose Gordon's over Glamis?

LOL, I don't care if you like barack or not, that is funny shit right there...

Am I the only one who doesn't find her attractive in the slightest bit? If I were in that stereo shop, and she was trying to sell me shit, I'd ask her if I can speak with someone who knows what they're talking about.

So loud=fast? No wonder my bike was always so slow...

You hit the nail on the head. I have never seen any heims come standard on arms that are the PTFE heims. They are all metal on metal joints. If you use QUALITY heims, they will outlast balljoints ten-fold. If they aren't FK PTFE, or Nylon heims (JMX, or KMX series), they will most likely be garbage. Every suspension setup I have built for race vehicles, or sand cars, would never even consider using ball joints because they lack the strength required for those vehicles. Then again, the heims are also about $150 a piece. On Banshee arms, if you're not going to spend the money on the quality heims, don't waste your time on them.