x_doug_x

i dunno where the stuff that plugged up the jets came from there wasn't much in the carbs. just a small "very small" fragment in "ONE" of the jets, "same jet" each time i think. as far as the tank goes, the tank has been empty and theres not really any dirt/crud in there. if anything is coming through the tank and wasn't somehow in there when i put the carbs back together the filter should catch it. thanks for the imput though, i appreciate it. the filter should stay clear, whatever got the jet twice a very small fragment of dirt or something. not really "crud" the carbs are clean when i pull them off. the other pilot that i keep messing with feels like it's closed to much or something, i'm not really sure i cleaned it but the whole still looks smaller than the other. i dunno maybe they screwed up the insde trying to clean it. i bought this atv in parts and had the cylinders bored/honed and put it back together, i'm trying to fix somethin someone else messed with.... i'm hoping its just a bad jet though...

gaps in the slides are the same on each side or really close either way. seems to pick up on both cylinders at 3/4 throttle and above. i have removed low speed jets and cleaned them about 6 times, this time one was clogged again and one wasn't and now i have installed a inline filter. i ordered new jets that should be in, in about a week. hopfully that will solve it and about the "plugs and wires" i took the complete wire/cap off one cylinder and put it on the other and vise versa and the same cylinder missed. i guess these motors will fire with the plug wires on either side.

i would also like to know exactly what the screws on the throttle housings are for "housings with plug that goes onto top of carb" i'm assuming the small screw on the back of each carb is a air screw?

ok, so i rebuilt the top end in this banshee. started it and it was missing on one cylinder. so i pulled it apart and the cylinder that was missing had a clogged pilot jet, i cleaned it out and put it back together, it started firing on that cylinder and stopped firring on the other cylinder, i tried changing the plugs. didn't help, i switched the plug wires and the same cylinder was missing and same one was firing as originally. so i pulled the reeds out and happend to have a set of stock reeds that closed completely as the aftermarket ones didn't i put these on and it seems to be hitting on both cylinders now, still misses a little though "i think" i also pulled the plastic cover off the stator. i pulled the magneto off and cleaned the tip with a wire brush, also cleaned the 2 humps in the flywheel or whatever you call it. i can't find my gear pulled so i couldn't pull it off to try cleaning up the inside of flywheel and outside of stator. now it seems to be hitting on both cylinders but won't idle it only hits when i rev it up like the low speed jets are clogged again. this is driving me nuts. before i changed the reeds out i put a spark checker on it and with the gas about a quarter throttle it would act like it wanted to die then hit again and run for a second then act like it wanted to die. the spark checker said the cylinder that wasn't wanting to fire was firing when it was hitting but when it tried to idle down and die a little the spark got slower.... on the good cylinder it said it was firing all the time. but like i said, changed the plug wires and still the same problem on same cylinder...... PLEASE HELP.

the low speed jet was clogged on side that was missing, i took carb apart, cleaned jet put it back together and other side started missing. : / i took carb apart and jet wasn't clogged "wierd"

really prefer something aluminum

stock cases, no crank. but with gears.. "wanna do a 4mill build. 2 into 1 intake. with carb. also do you guys recomend these? i figure it would be easier to tune. cool heads. with domes. for a mostly stock banshee. "pipes, and reeds. 1mm overbore. 4mill kit let me know some prices

i couldn't flip the base gaskets over. there is one bolt farther back that doesn't allow it. i just started her up, the right cylinder seems to be firing fine, i put new plugs in and the right cylinder plug after 5 minutes run time was grey though... the left cylinder wasn't firing every hit when i got on the throttle some you could here it pop every now and then. i think i'm going to bring it to the shop for the carb work, to make sure they are in sequence and have the left carb cleaned or whatever, i'm wondering if it's possible it's the reeds. but i dunno.

how much diffrence do cool heads make?

my old banshee did 89-91 it had t3 pipes, reeds, and a 4mill stroker. i dunno if it had anything else done. but it also had enough power to pull the wheels off the ground at 80 with only 9-11 mph left to go. i could have prob. geared it to do over 100 but i liked the power the way it was.

so does that almost mean you can only do about 3 bores on a cylinder before they are junk? mine are 1.00mm standard 65mm bore. they just came back from machine shop.

she's just about complete, gotta pick up some bolts/nuts for plastics and put some new plugs in it to read. i can't get a swingarm bolt though, i have a chrome swingarm and a extended one, i wanna put the stock chrome one back on but i can't get the swingarm pivot bolt out of the swingarm that is installed.

please help, i got the cylinder heads bolted down, however both base gaskets had a blue rubber gasket on them. and it was the same on both gaskets and you can't flip a gasket over. so my left cylinder has the blue gasket facing down the right cylinder has it facing up, anyone know anything about this?

cylinder heads are in machine shop and the pistons machine shop told me to order came in today. as soon as i bring pistons to shop i'll prob. be putting it back together first things first, the reeds, do they have any type of adjustment? i got a pair from someone on here and it looks like the reeds were flipped over. i can see marks on them that look like the marks where they were closing if they had not been flipped, as well as they both have a small gap where they are not completely closed on the read cage. second, most importantly. the piston rings. do the ring openings go opposite from eachother on each piston? ps. i don't have a repair manual. so thats why i'm here asking, and i have searched the forums and didn't find a topic that stated if they went opposite or just about a inch away from eachother.

wheres the airscrews on these carbs?

well?

factory airbox with factory lid.

heres elevation Metres 254m Feet 833.3ft temp= this time of year about 80-85 degrees. thats t5 pipes, boysen reeds and cages.

just ordered the pistons, when these come in and i install them do the ring openings go opposite of eachother or what?

k&n filter, whatever weight oil yall tell me, and i'm in chattanooga tn, dunno elevation.

just bought some boysen reeds and cages from a member on here, with stock unported cylinders and t5 pipes and silencers, stock carbs, what would jetting be?

are the reeds and cages ready to bolt in? if so pm me bottom dollar.

only problem with that is i'm doing the work myself, the guy that was going to do it quoted me 400 labor for putting a crank in, i dunno if thats a job i wanna tackle... : /

thanks for replys i didn't think i was going to get any, i decided to do the work myself in my spare time, i dropped the heads off at machine shop today, it's going to cost 70 bucks to get them bored and honed, as far as piston kits, i found one on ebay for about 150 with shipping includes pistons, clips, and all necessary gaskets, i'm going to order it as soon as they tell me monday what size to order. not getting it ported, the guy thats boring them said he won't port them. and 300 bucks for a used set of carbs, would i be better off buying a brand new 2 into 1 kit that included carb off ebay for 350 bucks or so?

ok, nevermind on that kit, i don't want something that needs modifications to the cases, how bout the wiseco 4mm kit?