slopoke

Here is my question: Has anyone on here bought a new banshee after they were banned in the us? I know they are still sold in various other countries. I was doing some digging and found I could have one shipped through a 3rd party for about 5200usd after all taxes. I would present cash when unit arrived. Of course it will be a non us unit but I live in the south not cali. What experience have you all had? I'm not jumping on this till I dig deeper. Thanks

Mobile one's regular oil that you can buy at the local wal mart has the additive for wet clutches. It meets every requirement of the factory specs. I have recently started using atf dextron II and have had really good luck. Type f works well also, but like they mention you need to change it more often. But if you want to run something other that atf with a little more run time before changes and easily found at parts houses and walmart go with mobile 1. You pick the weight,

know the feelin. One nut goes behind the presure plate and one goes on the outside.

you got it!!!! just chunk it aside.

don't run it any more till you rejet it. You will ruin a good motor. These folks on here can prob get you real close on jetting as far as numbers. Take the overflow off and run the hose of of the way so you still will be able to see it just in case it spews water.

I would def ck the float level then. It is most problematic right off idle and bottom end a typical sighn is shake the bike with engine off an see if gas comes out of the tube on the bottom of carb

dido on that. PJ right you said it. Might be they were cracked or chipped before causing the backfiring and blowing the piston to shreds. Its strange to me it is almost always the right side

first off did this just start or did it over time or what? Sounds like the makings of an air leak somewhere. Maybe ck the carb boots and where the cross over tube goes. Check for pin holes in cross over or boost bottle. Also maybe do a leak down/preasure test.

check the float level too. A high float will cause symtoms as mentioned. I am not trying to start an argument but leaving you fuel on during stops will not hurt anything. Its just a good ideal to turn it off overnight or when hauling it. Just incase a needle was to stick. IF you are having to turn your gas off everytime you stop you need to fix the problem with the float. jus my 2 cents

make sure the jam nut is tight. It could be backing off.

would you sell the silencers seperate? If so how much?

I just had the same problem and like the person said check your actuator, rod and ball. You can access the actuator by removing the left carb. Remove the bolt holding the retainer bracket down and pull up on the actuator. Mine was chewed up and ball,shaft and adjuster all welded together.

Just remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper to the carrier (12mm wrench) Remove the two bolts with the locking tab plate and the pads fall right out. Use a c clamp or a piece of wood to push the piston back in. (be sure to open master cylinder cap) and install new pads. Depress petal a few times and check fluid level.

can you tell me the mods you did on the stockers. My motor is a stage 4 trinity with a drag port, I stand correct my compression when measured hot is 215psi. Kinda high I think. Stock length rods (hot rods and crank). Thats pretty much it in a nut shell

well to be technical if you buy to identical cars they will not be exactly the same speed as these things are massed produced. so you could have 2 87 banshees that are identical and one would be faster.

my 450r has a fan on it with no battery. it pulls less than one amp so the banshees factory stator will run it no prob.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but all banshees were "toned" down. The engine originated in a steet bike called a RZ350 if memory serves me correctly. The engine on the bikes put out more hp than the banshee due inpart to carburation and intake system as well as the exaust. I am 99% certain as some of yall have said all banshee are the same as far as stock speed. I think the yellow ones are the fastest (lol) Other than j ams vs a arm and a couple years had 10" rear wheels thats it.

Maybe check the carrier bearing for seizure.

What is involved into switching over from stock carbs to methanol? Can stock carbes be converted or do they not allow enough flow? I have 18cc chambers with 175psi compression. Is this ok for methanol? It also has a dune/drag full port job if that matters. Or is the power increase even worth it?

Can someone tell me who this Jeff cat is. I was told on here I needed a pancake bearing and I would like to support the folks on this site being they are so helpful:)

My clutch all of a sudden wont release. I pulled the sidecover to find that the rod had welded itself to the ball and the adjuster. Looked almost factory. I pulled the clutch release cam and found the rod had worn right through it. I bought this shee used and te best my opinion i have is that the clutch prob wasn't adjusted right and it resulted in kinga like riding your foot on the clutch in a pickup. The rod must have been spinning all the time. What do yall think and how do I get the rest of the clutch shaft out? Do they make a roller like gizmo to release the clutch? My 450r has one and seems to work alot better. Thanks guys

CAN TYPE F BE USED SAFELY???? Just curious and if so how does it work?

Thanks for all the advise. I am going to try to go up a couple sizes on mains and see if it helps. I just didn't want to starve my motor. I am running stock gearing.