Larry's Shee

Clogged jet, dirty carb, old fuel, fouled plug, loose packing, mouse nest.

And when was the last time we saw a positive outcome from "a shop" ? FMR

First, ditch the bottle. It WILL crack the carb boots. What's air screw at? What do plugs look like? Spark? TORS eliminated? Parking brake? Has this thing ever ran, or has it gotten worse? Ever do a plug chop/read? Last time you actually did some maintenance? The jet sizes you mentioned do not exist.

Infamous mechanic Ben Dover strikes again !!

Great description !!!

Could be loose shift star or shift lever.

27.5p and ditch the bottle. It WILL crack boots. Once they start to, even though it may take years, they will start to leak.

Made me think of decades ago, my friend put a drag header and modded air box on his 750 Honda. Went into Anderson's and said I need 4 xxx jets. Guy argued it wouldn't run with those. Told him IDGAF, that's what I want and I know not returnable. Same as my son's Banshee, even tho everything indicated 27.5p , didn't cure starting issue until I went to 30p. No two setups are same, that's the nature of tuning. As to trolling, try thicker skin. Just the way it is around here. From the boss on down. Long as it's not racist, anything goes.

Air leak. With a runaway engine hold brake, shift into 2nd or higher, dump clutch.

Holy fuck is that F* or cel?

Going be standing in line for these.

So, no one can tell you nuttin. But yet you let some parts jockey tell you you didn't need nuttin. I call bullshit, sale is a sale, and if I want something I buy it.

Pretty solid advice here. Problem with milling head is you don't get advantage of better dome and squish profile. Could send head to Mull, or just get a cool head. Get some V4 reeds. If you get porting, be sure to mention you may go 4mil in future. Even some used Works will be huge improvement. They won't really lose much if any value till you upgrade later. Also do shift star and shaft mods for now. Speed costs, how fast can you afford to go? To be the best of the best, you need the best.

Shitty advice right here /\/\ Have read more of places fucking shit up than actually helping. Think sleeper nailed it. Though might want to get 30p also. Read and understand how to do a plug chop/read.

He must know P. T. Barnum, lol.

Skip the cdi. Really need to spend more time on the forum just reading different threads as they come up. You'll see what works, troubleshooting, tuning.

Made me think of the bitch I got tangled up with. Ended up nícknaming her "The Black Widow" . Y'all draw your own conclusions. Water under the bridge 30 yrs ago.

Well, then time to start at the beginning again and go through everything. Ohm, p.u. gap, connections, swapping Stator, cdi, micro inspecting harness, bypass switches. Thousands of threads on here with similar or same issues. Google search will be your friend.

Pipes, carbs, jetting ???

Try zooming in. My old ass eyes can give no option. I presumed you took. No pic will show unusual shaft wear (bent) nor pitting (rocks/rust)

Might also have been carbs icing up from snow dust. Heated garage will be your friend.

First read up on how to do a plug chop. Same process to read plugs. Just filter as you describe, one maybe two sizes larger than stock. Always start large and work down. Notice kit says pipe AND filter, might not have small enough for just filter.

Gee, if your "bud" works on them maybe you should ask him. Most likely you got water in somewhere. Then again, maybe you didn't jet for the cold and done fucked it up. Dry it out, do a comp test.

Where you located?

Well fuck me running. Probably saw, but didn't click it. This caveman hasn't figured the copy/paste thing on this tablet I'm using. OP, test in Clymers for ign coil is wrong, test POS to neg on primary, plug wire to p.wire on secondary