FULL REVERSE Rig restrictors in carb, flat rubber washer with about 20mm center, jet rich, maybe retard timing bit . Pay dyno operator off for the last few HP
Chain/cable lube, mix oil if it's not available, bottle of blue/tube of red loctite, tire plugs, spark plugs . Is your employer shipping this or are you? Might make difference getting through customs, not sure you can air freight aerosol cans. Depends how long you're there before you can restock. Spare throttle/clutch cables. Spare grips?
Tell him his shipper can trade pictures of DEAD Presidents for it. Don't give him any info, contact only thru CL. Dead giveaway: who the fuck would buy their uncle a banshee after open heart surguy??
carb boot cracked/dryrot, leak at crossover , oil low thus not sucking oil, leakdown test will help eliminate a lot of possibilities. if possible post picture of old piston
Being brand new only thing that comes to mind is possibility of not all of the casting sand was gotten out at the factory and is plugging the head most likely. Where you at that you picked up a new Banshee? Do a leak down test to eliminate possibility of an air leak. Should be a sticky on how to do it/make tester.
Here you go http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585
I might not have the sickness , but I got exposed some how. While searching CL for a bike for my son I saw several 500 Ninjas and the thought crossed my mind . Didn't know if you could get away with it . Mostly smog popo. probably get a blown Ninja cheaper than any kind of RD/RZ. Post up some pics when you get it done. Will this be a street or track bike?
Don't use ANY brake clean anywhere near it before welding. It can create DEADLY gasses. Other than that my suggestion would be two small tacs to minimize heat.
Y'all can flame me, but the shaft is already shot, so what will it hurt? Can't spoil a rotten egg.
For that price can't go wrong. Seeing that they aren't chrome, I'd go for the heat and compressed air dent removel. As for power loss, I would guess it could/would be measurable, but not by the ass dyno. JMHO, your results may vary.
Yes on the bottom end sticky. Don't know if just that gear is available. Highly suggest new clip for idle gear. Have heard horror stories of damage from idle gear coming off. I don't have to worry about that, previous owner welded the washer to end of shaft , ain't never coming off. Check idler on shaft, if it wobbles a lot get new bushing for it.
Every motor will be different, even if they are near identical. And yes removing the lid WITH PROPER jetting will make a difference. More air+more fuel= more power.
Welcome to BHQ !! Could either mechanisim jacked or idler gear may have came off. Don't try bump start because if it is the idler stuff WILL get fubared. Pull clutch cover and have a look. I think there is a sticky with downloadable manual , or get a Clymers. Post back what you find.