2strokesmoker

Well me and my powder coater thought it was made out of glass. When we pre-baked the parts to boil the brake fluid out of the metal the sight glass melted out. Had to remove the steel ring that the plexi glass was pressed in with the welded up the hole with aluminum. Also had to grind down the aluminum casting marks and the shoulder that the glass was pressed in. Looks sweet!

Does anybody knw if Hot Rods makes a connecting rod in standard length? Not exactly sure what i got on my hands here. I have micrometers or what ever precision tool i need to measure it. What two points do i measure from when the crank is already sealed upin the cases. I have had this quad for about three months. lol Just noticed when i was installing the new topend that the rods said "Hot Rods" right down the middle. Thanks any help would b great!

and some more. attn to detail. notice the white calipers and white front master cylinder? No sight glass or casting marks!

here are some updated pics! Super stoaked!

x3

X2!!! :thumbsup:

I would go with a hi-temp powder coat! :thumbsup:

Yea def not something you want to do if you dont know what you are doing. The yfz450 arms had to be cut where the bushings install. And then had to have some spacers made to compensate for what you cut off. The ultimate is inter grading the spacers with the bushing incorporated in the same piece.

I belive the front suspension for the blaster is totally different from the banshee, but i could be wrong. I retro fitted yfz450 arms on my bike.

well if you honed out the jugs I don't see why the rings would't be seated. hmmmm im not to sure. Did you buy the pistons ans rings as a set? Maybe wrong ring size???

Do you have a high compression head? 180psi seems like a lot for stock. I could be wrong though.

I purchased a bolt kit from alloy bolts and their kit had the same problem. The adjuster bolts were to short. Well it wasn't that they were to short. They had a shoulder on them witch is not possible for full adjustment. So i replaced mine with some longer ones. Even if you buy them too long, you can always cut them down. If so, be sure to grind a good lead pitch on the threads so you don't strip out the adjuster

If you blow it up and only has to b board .020 more would be fine. Then your at your last bore with .100 over. Thats what mine are at. As far as the carbs?????? Not to sure. Not experienced enough to comment on that. I was just saying .080 over is not your last bore.

I would change them. Why not your already there. Preventive maintenance is always the way to go!

Thanks brp you just saved me 20.00!!!! :thumbsup:

How long does it take to get parts? I been waiting like 3 weeks!

Im not the best at this but if your bike was shifting fine I dont think your missing this out of the tranny :biggrin:

This is whats going on mine! Should look sick with my stainless star grill and color scheme!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...T&viewitem=

yup $275.00 including sandblasting

yfz arms installed!!!! Waiting on the guy with the lathe to finish up the spacers

Im willing to bet this guy will beat his prices. He does whole atv frames for 275.00 http://www.poorboyperformance.com/

Def cutting the front fenders but I dont know about the rears. I just tore down all the calipers and front master cylinder to have have them powder coated white. The plastics are white as well. Also have the jugs powder coated yamaha blue. All the bushings, seals, and bearings have been replaced from top to bottom. I dont think you can tell from the pic but I also invested in a polished stainless bolt kit. The frame is done in a low gloss wrinkle black finish. Looks better in person. I think there is something wrong with my camera. Looks kinda blury. I will keep the pics posted as I progress in the build. Anybody know of a hq ride here in Michigan?

Let us know how your test ride goes and be extremely easy on it!!!!

Here is a pic of my build. What do you guys think? Dont be affraid to show yours too!!!!