DannysZ28

I bought a set about a month ago and they work great. Alot better than stock and more responsive. I did have to adjust the main jet from 158 to 155 but other than that they are really good and a good price. I thought about going a little bigger but i did not want to lose any low end power.

Do you have to split the crankcase to replace the seal?

My son bought a 250r atc its an 84 model. It seems to be getting oil from the tranny into the cylinder and causing it to smoke like a locomotive. Any suggestions????

Im running 155 main and 50 pilot. What jets sizes would you guys recommend. Its running good now and plugs look good.

I have a 4 mil lightly ported, 30mm carbs, +4 timing My question is will i have to rejet, I am changing from fmf fattys to cpi inframes? Will there be a noticable difference in power and will i see more power all the way through the powerband or just on top end.

I know that raptors are very bad for valves getting out of adjustment and making them very hard to start and it will also kill compression which makes it hard to start. Go to a raptor website and find the specs for valve adjustment, i cant remember right off top of my head. They are a little tough to get to but i would check that before i took anything apart. I thought mine was blowed up because it only had 60lbs of compression, after setting the valves it had 130 and fired up like it was new. Hope this is your problem. Also if its making kind of a grinding sound when starting. Its probably your starter clutches. Another annoying raptor problem.

I just checked the compression a few minutes ago but i checked it with the engine cold. It was 160lbs on each cylinder. Would it be higher or lower with the engine warm? I also had the throttle wide open when it was checked. Should it be higher and should i have the head shaved to pick up some more compression?

The guy who built it used a 2mm head gasket instead of a spacer. By doing this wouldnt i loose alot of compression. Im sure its a 4mil because i can stick a nickel between the head and jug. I plan on running this till my top end needs to be done then doing a drag ported setup from fast or hjr. Should i have the heads shaved to pickup some more compression and could i use the same head gasket. I had it dynoed last week and it put down 60hp, i thought that was ok considering it was home port job.

I bought an 02 banshee that is supposed to be a 4 mil long rod stroker. My question is how to tell if it is a long rod or not. I believe the guy i bought it from but was wondering how to tell without tearing it down. I am getting ready to send a spare set of jugs off and have them ported for a 4 mil. Does it make a difference in how it is ported if it is a short or long rod?

Would you be interested in some fmf fatties and cash?

pmed you about pipes

I have a set of chrome fmf fattys with powercore 2 silencers that i will trade and through in $150 for some chrome cpi inframes.

Just bought some of the new duro hook-ups and they are bad ass. Not only do they hook but they look mean as hell and you can get them for about $130-$135 shipped. Not sure how long they will last but i will let everyone know.

Good luck on yours i really hope im not disappointed in mine. Even if my numbers are low im still satisfied because i can rape any of the 450s and 700s out the hole and on top.

Just wondering if anyone would like to take a stab at my dyno numbers. I have an appointment in the morning to get it tuned. My mods 4mil crank, 30mm cpw carbs,pod filters, fmf fattys, +4 timing,bored .060 over, ported but not sure how much. The guy i bought it from did it. 140 psi compression on stock head. The bike runs really strong, at least i think it does and i wanted to see how good he did on porting.

Forgot to unhook the little black tors box. Idle problem fixed.

I got them put on and the jetting seems to be pretty close bug one problem im having is it wont idle unless i barely touch the throttle. I mean i just touch it, not even enought to put tension on the spring. As soon as i take my finger off, it will cut off.

This is a newer mikuni carb. Not sure what size yet but its pretty damn big.

My son just bought an 84 250r atc. It will start up and idle but as soon as you give it gas it will cut off. Just wondering where to start?

I took them apart to see what cpw put in them. They put a 158 main and a 50 pilot. By the way i am running k@n pod filters.

I have a 4 mil stroker,bored .060 over, minor porting, fmf fattys, +4 timing, 145 lb compression, and am very close to sea level. I got some 30mm CPW carbs that are prejetted but in case they are not right i would like to know what you guys would start out with on the jets.

A friend of mine has a ported polished 409 big bore with 28mm carbs, hemi head and toomey t-5s. We raced last week and i took him by 5 or 6 bike lengths pretty easy. We almost raced 1/8 mile on pavement. He has 6 inch extended arm with street tires and its strutted with 15-41 gearing. What kind of power should he be making provided it is tuned right? I am running a 4 mil stroker, home ported jugs, stock heads, stock carbs, fatty pipes, +4 timing with a 16-41 gear. Only suspension mods is a lowering kit. I was trying to get some idea how mine was running. Not sure since i am not exactly sure how my cylinders are ported. I was really suprised that i pulled him pretty hard in the first 3 gears.

I just put a timing plate on mine last week. You will be very happy with that. It really suprised me.

The guy i got it from said it used to have 34 keihins on it with everything listed above except timing advance. With street tires, lowered with struts and a wheelie bar. He said it would run 7.30 in the 1/8. Does this sound right. He did give me the wheelie bar with it.

What kind and size carbs would you go with?