Holyman

All of the info I have on the 2 stroke and other oils says they are API certified. As far as the durability goes, Amsoil warrantees that their products will not cause the failure of the engine or they will replace the oil and the labor and parts to fix it. Of course I've never called them to prove it but at least as Tommy Boy would say... "They've got a guarantee on the box...". Tell me which oil you're talking about for your deisel and I'll check it out. Maybe the one you're looking at isn't API. Is Amsoil the BEST out there??? I'm sure there's some super duper oil out there that's better. Just don't know if it's as available or affordable? I'm not talking anyone into anything. I'm offering because I want to be able to give the HQ team as much bang for the buck. I don't profit from anything I sell to my bretheren on the HQ.

I can get you Amsoil 2000 for $24.15 {my cost} but I'd have to check on shipping.

I think you have an uphill battle here since the politicians don't care at all if the ATVers have a place to ride. I know in my area there are 3 kinds of riders. 1- The person who got an ATV to blow off steam instead of killing his boss or family. 60% 2- The kid who got one for_________ {fill in the event} 39% 3- The person who races or is very serious about riding and goes to a riding location OR has his own property to ride on 1% As you can see, in my area 99% of the people are either already riding illegally or in areas where there is no enforcement. When a municipality is faced with building a new subdivision or displacing a few people from riding, there is NO WAY the money stacks up. The riders are gonna lose. The only hope I see in the future for those who live in semi rural but growing areas like mine is if we ATVers get the same rights as snowmobilers. If we can get access to the same riding areas, I'll gladly pay the money for the sticker. Heck I'll even pay double. Now if you could DOUBLE the income from the "overlap" areas, there is still no concern about tearing up new areas. I'm confident that the revenues would almost double even if the ATV sticker was the same cost as the sleds is. If you charged 50% more for the 'all season" sticker ATV's would use, you could actually build the economy because there would be workers needed to keep up the trails. And of course fines for the idiots who don't want to comply. Someone just told me the other day that my municipality just banned all motorized vehicles that are driven off of your own property. That doesn't stop me from riding and we have even been seen by the police riding along the shoulder of the road {with lights on, helmets and gear on and at a slow speed} and we didn't even get a second glance. So I'd take the angle of better use of the current riding areas = more money and jobs.

I've got one. Send me an email... [email protected]

I'm interested. Email me a pic to... [email protected] THANKS

Email me a pic... [email protected]

I sent them out to you rod. Let me know if you didn't get 'em.

boonman... email me with a price or anything you might want in trade and I'll set you up before you even take it off. [email protected]

I did the same thing. You can go to greyhound.com and they have a whole thing set up for shipping. You drop it off at your local terminal and the other guy picks it up at their local terminal. Greyhound will not drop off at every stop though. So figure out where the thing needs to go and then look on a map to find the nearest large towns. That way when you talk to greyhound if one town doesn't have a terminal, you can suggest another one. I got mine shipped from my own town to New Jersey for about $55 and all I did was make a cardboard box for it from furniture store cardboard I got out of the dumpster. It's the only way to go AND they ship FAST since it's usually a direct drive to the terminals from one point to another. It got to NJ from Chicago in 2 days!!!

I've got a 2:1 intake. Trinity. email me... [email protected]

Well since we CAN"T POST PICS AGAIN I'll have to just explain how to do it. OR you can send it to me and I'll rebuild it for you. [email protected]

Well if you find someone that has one, let me know. I've been looking for one because I want to shorten my swingarm and I don't want to buy new guides.

Send me an email and we'll work something out. [email protected]

The RZ had a choke tube too and I can't imagine there's be a runaway 2stroke street bike without the factory making some very obvious changes!!!

I'll take $40 and your old tank.

Maybe I can use this trip as a write off if I do some banshee trading there

I'm trying to be objective here but why is it that every idiot with less than 10 posts says something stupid like Amsoil ruins your engine and guys like Blue Deuce have run 100:1 synthetic for 20 years with no problems . I'm trying not to be offensive but I guess it's just not coming out that way. I read all the dealer info I got on it and I don't see any difference between that and the 2000 series or the 100:1 or for that matter between any of the 2 stroke oils they offer EXCEPT for the fact that the Interceptor oil is a little cheaper than the 2000 {I think} AND can be used as a premix or in an injector system. So it would be a great universal oil if you're gonna use it in the Banshee, around the house and in the sled etc. You can order with my dealer number if you aren't already using someone else's. 1164084

If you're concerned about the chrome tipping the cops off then paint whatever pipes you feel like running. If you're doing street riding, you could get away with a good top end pipe like the Toomey. The advantage with them too is you can get the Hush Kit if sound level is a concern and still stick with the whole Toomey package. They are a great pipe and if they came in stainless, I'd go back to them from the Trinity's I have now. The problem with almost any pipe I've seen except the few stainless pipes out there is that they all wind up looking crappy and rusty after a while anyway and could use a coat of paint or some of that ceramic coating. In my opinion, you're just as well off getting a set of pipes that are used and need a paint job and just paint 'em. If you want the paint off, paint stripper will do the job fast. If you want a stock looking aftermarket pipe, I'd go with the Paul Turner pipes {never run them but alot of people are very happy with them} or a 2:1 pipe because if it only comes out one side you're 50% less likely to have the pipes ever even seen a few bucks on a couple cans of Barbeque Black paint and you're ready to ride. Touch ups are easy too

You gotta hand it to a guy that is confident enough to use a term like "dead fiddly" and still give tech help on your carbs jk My theory is that minute amounts of moisture combined with the velocity of the air coming thru the carb cause a minor frosting of the slide and the slides stick. I've now revised that to say this... if the tube between the carbs is not 100% air tight and the engine is at a high idle, the carbs may be drawing a little air thru the choke tube instead of totally thru the filter. I'm not talking about a gaping hole or crack in the tube but when rod would run the hose over the carbs it would stick.

At one point I thoerized it was frost or freezing of the high humidity on the engine side of the slide. I even used an old pair of carbs and hooked it up to my shop vac and ran water in the fuel line just to see what the temp would be. As it turns out, the coolest temps I got {by touch because the rectal thermometer I used doesn't read below room temp} was just above idle or about even with the choke port. Now that someone has found water in the choke tube, I say plug the tube at both ends and then run the hose over it and take it for a ride. Should be obvious if that's the problem.

Do a search. There have already been pics and a discussion on this. I moved mine and it works great.

I had a set of FMF Gold's and found them to be substandard. The Trinity Pipes I have now are the stainless version and have an outstanding finish and fit and produce better power delivery than the FMF's. I highly doubt you will find a set of Trinity pipes for the same cost as any FMF pipe unless the Trinity's are really beat. If you have stock pipes now, any pipe will be an improvement but if you're going to spend money, get the pipes that best fit your riding style and not so much the appearance or sound. Even a rusty steel pipe that delivers power the way you want it is better than a shiney pipe that sounds good but slows you down. Don't believe any of the websites either. No-one sold anything by saying they are the #2 choice

This is the perfect axample of a PUBLIC forum at it's best. When you have a forum {definition: a medium of open discussion} that is open with simple rules, the forum will tend to be self governing because everyone appreciates 2 things 1- No-one knows eveything. 2- You can learn something by listening to others. The sole purpose of a moderator {defined also as a mediator which is "one who works with opposing sides in order to resolve a dispute or bring about a settlement"} should be to correct, direct, and only after showing a lack of appreciation for the forum and it's principles, discipline the participants. A moderator should only delete words or expressions that are blatantly outside the general rules of the forum. In this case, there are no doubt certain laws that need to be followed. I would suggest that racism, sexism, expressions that promote hate, the exploitation of children, and the use of hard core pornography would be legally regulated and thus would merit IMMEDIATE deletion and censure of the person{s} involved. Beyond that, we don't need a moderator. Afterall, if a moderator needs to be notified of something, there is a link on each page that can be used for just that purpose. For the above purposes, a moderator should never have to identify him/her self. And instead of stifling the person's creativity, the moderator should give warnings to those who stray. Some one who put's a posting in each category may afterall be making a point. I did it once as a protest. We were told for months that image hosting would be available for our tech pics. Eventually I got tired of hearing the excuses and posted once in each heading that it was time to step up to the plate and provide it or tell us when it would REALLY be coming. It came shortly after that. Now I won't take credit for the implementation after my protest but I felt good about it and I think I unified some folks to ask the same questions. If we're talking about using up space on some server somewhere, then say so. If that's the concern, then drop some of the redundant headings like one each for wanted, for sale, and trade. Obviously a complete waste of space. All of that being said, I know that some here may appreciate what I've said and some won't, but the thing that's so great about it is we can still appreciate the forum as a place where it can be said.

The theories abound!!! We went 17 pages I think on the old forum and couldn't SOLVE the problem. My latest thinking is that it's a problem with the choke tube between the carbs. I suggest trying this... go to the auto parts store and get 2 rubber caps and remove the choke hose and cap both ends of the little nub sticking out of the carbs. It will be harder to start without the choke on the RH carb but I think the problem is there. fixitrod was able to see that the slides don't in fact get stuck wide open but only about .10 inches which is about even with the choke tube/port. We've pretty much eliminated the stronger spring method, the vortex around the slide theory, the vacuum at the top of the slide theory, the with black coating/without black coating method, the w/ or w/o TORS theory, the water in the airbox/ on the filter theory, the randomly tight cable theory, the "it doesn't happen on bored stock carbs" theory, the "your quad is a POS" theory, the ambient temp outside theory, the water in the gas theory, and pretty much any other theories I might not have remembered. There are 2 things that always occur when the slides stick {as far as I can tell}... 1- there has to be high humidity and/or wetness. 2- the quad has to be revved for at least a short period of time. There is one thing that has never happened { to my knowledge} this has never happened on the RZ350 which runs the same carbs and is essentially the same engine. I say that whoever helps resolve this problem must patent the resulting remedy and whoever has posted a theory or remedy should get an equal share of the income.Let the brainstorming begin!!! {again}

Send me an email at [email protected] along with your Paypal addresses and I'll send the money tonight. Thanks