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Holyman

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Everything posted by Holyman

  1. post some pics or a link. I'd love tosee what you've done.
  2. Even simpler. Just a check box with no rating for 1-10. If you think the person gives a good posting, you can click the box and it anonimously {sp} adds a number to his/her rating. So if you see a person with 200 postings and a 2 rating, you know that he/she isn't contributing much or perhaps isn't a reliable as a person with 200 postings and a rating of 30. It would be alot like feedback on ebay. Mostly useless unless you really want to rely on that persons postings. I think the rating should be based on topic as well. So a person that has sold things may have a high rating if the transactions have been good but a lower rating on riding places if they never ride or in the roosting room if they never complain. The rating should only come up per topic. SO when you're logged in to "General" your ratings you've rcvd in the General topic heading would only be shown. As you could imagine, a person could get even a much higher rating than even their posting amounts if they posted an especially informative or appreciated posting and dozens of people voted that they liked that posting. In reality a person with 20 feedbacks could have a rating of 200. It just would show the value of that persons contribution under that topic.
  3. I have a set on my 99 and like 'em. I haven't done any jetting changes from when I had my T5's on the same banshee though. So I'm not really sure they are running under ideal circumstances. The reason I switched from the T5's to Trinity is because I got a set of stainless pipes from an HQ member for a very good price and now I don't have to worry about them getting rusty and to me that's worth quite a bit. Even if it means sacrificing a little power.
  4. My whole point was not that any of us are better than the others. My point was there seems to be a rating system in place that doesn't mean a single thing. I believe in all or none, pass or fail. So either set up a rating system that shows the "dedication" of certain members or eliminate the rating system all together. I especially don't want people posting a million worthless posts just to get a rating. So if there could be a vote box under each posting, others could vote 'em in. Otherwise scrap the whole rating system.
  5. 2banshees... send me a pic [email protected] and your list of trades you want AND your location and phone number.
  6. The little splitter comes apart. Just pop the top off and hook up the cable.
  7. Not really because you'd have to have over 1000 posts and THEN get voted on by 100 HQ members in order to earn the turd. So it's something you have to work for not just get when you stack up 1000 useless posts.
  8. Get you 2 guys together and you'll have a shooting turd. Couldn't help it guys... a 3rd grade moment from being up too long
  9. AHHHHH feels good to be me again
  10. I could swear I looked there
  11. You might want to check in to re-insurance on the house. Alot of big $ owners use it. For example, you'd insure with Allstate for $200,000 and the re-insurance would pick up after that. So under normal circumstances and for realistically MOST losses, the homeowners policy would take care of you but after they reach their limit, the re-insurance kicks in and pays the rest. From what I've been told, the re-insurance is pretty cheap since the only time they actually pay out is during something that would completely destroy your house or some major disaster like hurricane Hugo and the Cali fires you're experiencing. And your homeowners rates should be less too considering you're only insuring for 1/2 the REAL value of the home. I get claims on $1M+ places here in Illinois and it's not unusual to have some of them re-insured. And that is for an area where there is almost no risk of raging fires and no such thing as a hurricane. I think at one time Sears even sold a "deductible" policy for a few bucks a year. The most they would pay out is your deductible but for only a few bucks a year, some people could raise their homeowners deductible and just about break even on the "deductible" policy. If they had a claim for most things they were out very little.
  12. I've noticed that some of the top guys are rated as advanced but some guys with as little as 160+ posts are advanced too. Hey Lee... how about an eBay like system where you get a shooting star or something when you get over 1000 posts. Or better yet, instead of encouraging a million worthless posts just to get a shooting star, how about a rating for people in the top 25. And of those in the top 25 with their name listed, a person can vote for the usefulness of the postings by each person in the top 25. Once they get 100 positive votes, the get a shooting star. This will promote GOOD listings and team work and long term dedication to the site. You won't be able to vote for yourself and you can't vote negatively only positive.
  13. I would check into the specifics of the policy. The policy should state pretty clearly what constitutes a "covered loss" and how those losses are adjusted. It is not unusual for an insurer on a large loss to depreciate the home and especially the contents very significantly. Usually a replacement cost policy provides for the amount taken as depreciation to paid in full once repairs/ replacement of the home is completed {provided it is comparable to the original structure} and once the contents are replaced. In over simplified terms, If a house lasts 80 years and yours is 20 years old, they will take 25% depreciation on the house and pay you 75%. In Illinois, some surfaces are depreciated i.e. brick, stone etc not usually depreciated/ paint, carpet, siding usually depreciated. These are mainly because some surfaces are subject to more wear and are less durable or become outdated more quickly. As far as contents go, they are almost always depreciated because they wear the fastest and go out of style the quickest. There is a guide used by the IRS that is followed that rates the life and depreciation used on certain items such as furniture, lawnmowers, area rugs, dishes, you name it. If I were to make one suggestion, it would be to get out the video recorder and go thru the whole house and garage including the drawers with valuables {jewelry, silverware etc,} and if they have to evacuate, take the video with. You will have the best proof anyone can have of the items you have. I also recommend that you do this once a year when ever you normally have the camera out {holidays, family get togethers etc.} and put it in a fireproof box. I handle fire claims on my job. My inlaws house burned down a few years ago. The house was rebuilt but they lost out on over $40,000 in contents just because they couldn't prove what they had and because they didn't keep their coverage high enough. When this is all over, it might be a good time to review your coverage. In the mean time, keep your spirits up. As long as you and your family are OK, the "stuff" can be replaced. I'm sure I can speak for eveyone here when I say we're thinking of you and your family and if there's anything we can do, just give us a hint.
  14. You don't have a replacement cost policy on the house? What kind of deductible do you have on the house and are the toys insured under the home policy or are they insured by themselves?
  15. I hate to ask but who are you insured with?
  16. No pics right now. I'll get some later if you want. send me an email so I can send you a pic [email protected]
  17. I can't find my original pic. Does anyone know where it went?
  18. Yeah post some pics too.
  19. They are pretty much the same as the MotoFast pipe. I run the MF pipe on my 95. I think it's a great pipe an comes as close to an all around pipe as you can get. I have run FMF Golds, T5's and Trinity pipes to compare it to. I like the T5's best but the 2:1's are a close second.
  20. For the few days that the HQ was gone, I was frantic looking for somewhere else to be. Where did you guys go if anywhere?
  21. Partial trade full trade. either one. send me an email and we'll talk about it.
  22. I had FMF's on my banshee and wasn't impressed with the power delivery. They had awesome mid but that was about it. I have no experience with the other pipes.
  23. I think most people would agree that you're best off buying a newer model shock or an aftermarket upgrade. I'm pretty sure you need very specialized tools with alot of experience rebuilding shocks. Check out ebay and just buy one off a 2000 for less than any parts you'd need to buy to rebuild your old one.
  24. Hit it harder. Leave the nut on and really wail on it.
  25. The philips head screw is almost always messed up. If I can't unscrew it, I use a sharp chisel and put it in one of the screw slots. I angle the chisel to match the angle of the cone or countersink on the back of the screw. Usually I can chisel it around and make it unscrew. Drilling it out is not really possible unless you drill a small hole in the opposite end {the threaded end} of the screw and then try the screwdriver or chisel treatment. Don't try to drill it out from the head side or you'll never get it out.
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