Holyman

shnockered

Are those crazy A arms just made to only fit the J frame? I'll check on what I have around here and try to help out where I can.

Here's what I was thinking about... The performance of a flywheel is not determined by mass alone, but rather the distribution and location of the mass with respect to the axis of rotation. The most important characteristic of a flywheel is its Moment of Inertia, which determines its resistance to changes in RPM. So to get the best performance, you need to adjust and tune the moment of inertia, not the mass. As you know, piston engines only produce power during the short power stroke following combustion, the rest of the engine cycle requires the engine to be externally driven during intake and compression. The purpose of the flywheel is to store some of the energy from the power stroke to be used to turn the engine during the rest of the cycle. If the flywheel's moment of inertia is too low, the engine will run extremely rough since it will be on the verge of stall during compression. Vibrations will be very high since the engine will accelerate rapidly during the power stroke, and greatly slow during the compression stroke. Under these conditions, the engine will produce virtually no power, and the slightest load will stall it. An engine with an oversized flywheel will be difficult to start since it will not want to accelerate, but eventual operation will be very smooth and powerful, and it will resist any sudden change in RPM. This is why power plant generator engines usually have massive flywheels weighing several tons so they output a constant smooth RPM even if there are sudden changes in loading. However, ATV's require a balance between the rapid acceleration of a small "J" flywheel and the power and smoothness of a high "J" flywheel. A perfectly optimized flywheel will store enough energy to power the compression stroke of the engine, but will have a moment of inertial low enough to allow rapid acceleration. At low revs, the compression stroke takes longer so a larger "J" is required than at high revs where the compression stroke is only a few milliseconds and only a small "J" is needed. Lower moment of inertia: Faster acceleration, reduced engine weight, easier to start, but: slightly reduced power at low rpm, increased vibrations, can stall easily if clutch engaged too quickly.

I'll try to post a pic but they are always too big and the program I used to use to crop 'em is missing a file or some crap like that.

plastered under the table ripped

Cool. You and BenBB got yours today. All I ask from you guys is that you report back to me if you have any problems at all and how often you ride. I'm trying a few things on an extra I got from Ben so I'm trying to make this the last time anyone should have to think of the kicker. So keep in touch. I'll be doing poindexters kicker over the weekend.

OK so the extra/ unneccessary weight near the center point only adds to weight meaning it has no benefit unlike the weight at the outermost edge of the flywheel. The added weight near the center would then only serve to slow the response ability/ time by the engine. Just out of curiousity, I recall you taking 11oz's from the fully lightened flywheel and 8 from the perimeter lightened flywheel. I think you could trim a little more from the END of the center hub that faces the engine cases. This wouldn't compromise the strength of the hub. I honestly suspect that you have better performance by taking as much off the center than you would the outer perimeter AND judging by my read of Joe's math, there would be much less risk of failure the more you took off the closer to the center. I would also like to add that there can be several things going on here at the same time too. An aftermarket clutch basket COULD have some effect on the response time and performance of the engine because of the weight in rotation. Things like the lock up clutches would also effect the engines ability to rev quicker since they add a significant amount of rotating weight to the engine. The use of any of this stuff has to be balanced with the performance you expect to gain. If clutch slippage is a problem and quicker revvs isn't, then the lockup clutch may be for you but if the quicker revvs is important, then the lockout might not be for you. I'm not bashing anyone here. I'm just seeing if this thechnology/modification can be taken to a higher level. And I'm hoping we can open a quality dialog on some possible improvments. If someone has the ability to MAKE a flywheel, I would be willing to donate materials {such as titanium or aluminum as they become available} for some prototypes. I also understand that some of the aftermarket ignitions use NO flywheel. That being the case, it would show that the stock flywheel is completely un-needed weight and perhaps much of the "performance" enhancement from the aftermarket ignition is the complete loss of the weight of the flywheel and no so much the electronic improvements. Just a few thoughts to kick around

Worked great when I did it.

I might be interested in them uppers. I'll even work out a deal with these here other fellers for my stock uppers.

Are you looking for factory or aftermarket? I think I have one laying around.

Send me a pic of the shocks. I've got all the shocks you need. We'll work it out. Besides I have an LD kid at home here so I "speeka"

You have got to do a search on this. It was discussed extensively very recently.

Ron... did you read the info at the link I posted above? After that research, it seems your method of removing the weight from the center of the flywheel is actually better than taking it off of the outermost surface. Have you ever "tested" one of your flywheels that are lightened only in the middle compared to a stock and your "fully" lightened flywheels? Can you take even more weight from the center?

sounds like you have an air leak causing a super lean condition unless the pipe was so full of excess oil that it started to burn. I'd check the carb boots and intake tract very closely for ANY even tiny air leaks. Spraying WD40 on all the seems at carbs and boots and reed blocks etc will make it run oddly and pinpoint the leak.

2001 banshee $3900 minus $200 for FMF pipes plus $200 for A arms minus $20 for 15T sprocket plus $150 for rims& tires plus $20 for bars minus $100 for mismatched cut plastic chrome parts free Grand total.... $3950 Price without all the extras $3900. Price with the extras $3950. Put the original stuff back on and sell the upgrades separately.

email me soe prices [email protected]

no... click here if you want to know the REAL stuff about flywheels http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...hl=real+science

bump

The J's and A's take all the same bushings UNLESS they are aftermarket and SOME of them are not the same.

I think it's the timing too. Check the flywheel for tightness and if it's not loose, pull it and check the timing plate. It's sounds like the timing plate is loose. Even if it's not the timing, you still need to check it. I had a friend that had a timing plate screw come loose and chewed up the stator and the flywheel. He thought he burned up the motor and was gonna sell it for a couple thousand. Good thing he pulled the flywheel. He managed to fix it up for a couple hundred instead of taking a hit on the whole quad.

Since I sell the bearings I'm gonna tell you what I'd do... If you know what kind of A arms you want to buy eventually, make sure you know if they use bearings, bushings or heim joints. The American racing or Burgard A arms take a smaller bearing than most of the other aftermarket A arms so buying bearings now would be a coplete waste. The rest of the aftermarket A arms that don't use heim joints use the same size bearing as the stock bushing so there's no wasted money there. You can buy the bearings now, use them until you get your new A arms and then put them in the new A arms. Buying the factory bushings is a complete waste because they are $10 each from the dealer so you've got $40 worth of junk you never want to use anyway. I sell the set of 12 bearings and the spacers you need to use the bearings {not the inner sleeves, you need a spacer the thickness of the flange on the stock bushing to use the bearings} and guarantee the bearings for 6 months and ship and a free bottle of Amsoil 100:1 and ship for BHQ memebers for $60. {I sell 'em on ebay for $75} I also have a set of bearings with built in seal for a little more. If you know you will be converting to A arms but don't know which ones, I'd get some used {meaning free} plastic bushings from someone and ride til you know exactly what you're gonna do. I'm not trying to sell stuff here. I'm just telling you what I'd do. I think we all work hard for our money and I'd hate to see $1 wasted on something you won't need.

If you send it to me right away, I'll fix it for free. Check out the post under repairs and mods for my address.

Send me a couple pics and what you might want in trade [email protected]

OK everybody. So far all I've gotten was BenBB and TLONG {shipped out today priority} and poindexters is at the post office. I'll give you other guys one more week til the 25th to get 'em to me if you want it done for free. For you other guys that I already commited to... don't worry about it, I'll do yours when you get the kicker to me

If you need pics of a swingarm pivot tube grease fitting install, let me know. The last time I did mine, I took pics. If you still have the J arms, You may want to convert to bearings instead of bushings. NOT just because I sell the bearings but because the J arms tend to wear out the bushings 5 times as fast as A arms because of the leverage. I give BHQ memebers a break $15 off of my ebay prices for A arm bearings and discounts on swingarm bearings and each set comes with a free bottle of Amsoil 100:1 premix.