Holyman

I guess I can add pics

I moved mine too. I can send you some pics if you want.

sometimes it's the Aarm pivots or even the skid plates if they are bent or loose.

Here's what I do... 1- Cut a 2 foot square piece of 3/4 plywood {bigger or smaller depending on what else is with the engine} 2- Use drywall screws and attach 2x2's along 2sides of the plywood to act as skids.{I use a 1/4" air stapler but drywall screws work great too and are easier for the guy on the other end to get it open}. 3- Set the plywood on the floor or bench witht the 2x2's on the bottom. 4- Set the engine on the plywood and using plumbers pipe strap {sheet metal strap with prepunched holes in it a15 ft roll is a couple bucks at any hardware store} put one strap over the stator side of the engine and screw it to the plywood. Do the same for the clutch side. If your covers are in great shape, put duct tape over the strap to prevent any scratches. If the covers aren't beig shipped, use some strap ove the center of the engine and place wood cutoffs under the engine to make sure it won't shift. 5- cut 1/4" plywood {underlayment is cheap and easily found even free if you don't mind dumpster diving at construction sites} for the sides and top. 6- Screw 2x2's in the corners and along the top and screw the sides and top on. 7- Get some cheap rope {I usually use that yellow rope that you can get at walmart for $1} and with the end at the ground on one side put a couple staples {here's where staples are really nice} thru the rope intpot the 2x2 on the bottom of the crate. Extend the rope up past the top of the crate about 9" and then loop the rope back down and staple to the bottom again. Put staples at the top of the crate tohold the rope there. {basically we're making a handle out of the rope that is stapled to the bottom and top 2x2's} repeat for the other side. If I feel extra nice, I'll use some old garden hose over the rope at the top of the loop to make it easier on the hands You will get charged an extra $5 for not having the engine in a box. Some guys will apply cardboard to the outside to save $5. I'd rather pay the $5. I've had engines shipped to me and I've sent some out and so far this is the best way I've seen to get the engine where it's going.

I understand the plastic bag concept but the flywheel isn't on there just so see how fast or how easily we can spin it. It helps smoothe out the power delivery to some extent. So there has to be a combination of ease of spinning and duration of spin. A bike wheel on a mountain bike should be more difficult to spin than one on a BMX bike just because it's taller but once it's moving, the taller tire should spin longer than the smaller one {assuming same weight}. The best thing to do is develop one that can be easily spun and stay spinning the longest.

OK I thinkyou guys are coming around to my line of thinking... removing weight from closer to the center {in spite of possible failure problems} will also net a beneficial effect and reducing the diameter of the flywheel {albeit very small amounts} actually moves in the opposite direction of where you ultimately want to be... the largest possible diameter with as much weight as possible along the rim. I completely agree that we are discussing minute {probably} effects but my reasoning is that if you already have it in the lathe, might as well take off what will do the most good. I have admired Rons {banshee worx} flywheels for quite some time. Especially the one with the larger milled slots and I believe there's even some material taken off of the hub. Based on his mod of the flywheel, I have been thinking that the material removed from closer to the center will do several things... 1, reduce the overall weight of the flywheel 2, improve the moment of inertia {if I even understand that at all } 3, keep the weight at the outer rim of the flywheel where it will do the most good for keeping the flywheel moving. One question about the button flywheels... are they only there for cosmetics or what. I thought the electronics upgrade didn't require a flywheel to make that ignition work. One more thought... I agree with whoever said it before... this is probably one of the best and most affordable upgrades that can easily be made. If you can get a flywheel lightened for $50- $130 {depending on how extreme you want to be} and you can squander $35 on a boost bottle, this is a great mod!!!

Well T5's ain't much for low so I'd say go for the PT's. Maybe you could sell the T5's or sell the PT's if you don't like 'em.

Then use up all the premix you've got in the banshee. Or better yet, drain it all out, take out the tank valve {while you have it emoty it's a good idea} clean off the screens that are inside the tank and then use your Amsoil. Should work just fine

So am I totally wrong in thinking that the best flywheel would be the largest diameter with most of the weight around the rim of the flywheel? And what effects the moment of inertia? What makes that the easiest? More weight at the rim or in the center or a balance between the 2? It seems that according to the equations, the best would be to slowly calibrate the flywheel so the moment of inertia is optimum instead of seeing how much weight can be whittled off the flywheel yes/no?

The RZ flywheel is said to be able to work BUT if you compare the 2, the pickups on the rim of the flywheel are in a slightly different location. So you have to either increase or decrease the timing ALOT before it will work. At least that's what I was told.

That oil is not recommended for premix unless it says so on the bottle. In the dealer info I have it doesn't say to use it for premix.

For Amsoil trans oil... The synthetic gear lubes and synthetic ATF's should all work great. Some of the 4 stroke engine oils would work too. Personally, I'd use the synth ATF. They are made for wet clutch applications, reduce transmission temps and are rated for severe use including Caterpillar and Allison. It ought to be able to handle a banshee Dealer/ preferred buyer cost is $5.90qt retail is $7.80. It only costs $10 to become a preferred customer for 6 months. You're best letting me know if you want to become an Amsoil preferred customer, buy one big order to last you a year and then do it again when you need more. You get all the perks of being a dealer without them breathing over your shoulder. For premix... I can't stress enough how happy I am with 100:1. It's super easy to mix {1 small bottle to 5 gallons is 80:1 and 1 bottle to 6 gallons is 100:1}. The bottle is only 8oz so it can be carried with you on the trail. I ride my banshee in all seasons, never change jetting and have not had even a hint of a problem at 80:1 riding HARD for hours in 15 degree weather. In my book that's impossible to beat.

good thoughts Ducman

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...pic=19100&st=0& try this... or it's in engines

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Got pics and prices on this stuff?

My point was not that the lightened flywheels don't work. I'm sure they do. I'm saying that the info shows that the added weight in the center is only added weight. The flywheel needs to have a balanced moment of inertia which according to what Joe said is best achieved by having as little weight near the center as possible. From what I can get from all that, the most efficent flywheel would have nothing in the center and a band around the outside. Fortunately the banshee flywheel is already mostly shaped like that. I also agree that the engine does need "A" flywheel since the engine rpm's do need to fluctuate. I also agree that because the banshee engine is a twin, you need less of a flywheel than a single would. But the flywheel is there to help maintain engine speed under load. Fortunately the banshee revvs high too so less of a need for the heavy flywheel. All I'm saying is that if you were going to play baseball, cutting 9" off of the end of the bat is not the same as choking up on the bat by 9". Or swinging a 20lb sledge hammer is not the same as swinging a 20lb bar. I don't really think that starting the banshee is a problem with any flywheel so you don't need the weight there but balancing moment of inertia with the weight of the flywheel is the ultimate goal. And that's what I'm putting out there. Just trying to get some ideas.

Michelin makes a really nice scooter tire that should fit your factory rims. And heck Italy should have plenty of places to get scooter tires

I'm serious, I have shocks and I'll even throw in some sort of a hooked on phonics somethin' for you.

Send me an email and I'll get some pics out to you. My quad didn't have a title 'cause they didn't use 'em back then. I will give a bill of sale though. [email protected]

I have an 87 roller with a blown engine. Needs front spindles and some misc stuff.

Post a pic and a price for minus sizes too. Do you sell the carroiers too?

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19973

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Those clamps look like emergency pipe repair clamps. I'm sure they work great but they don't really look too good. But hey to each man his own.