robert0762

sounds like you need to adjust the clutch so it disengages more

OK I was just a lil worried cause I have seen a lot of people on here saying there bike runs a lot cooler then 210. Also when it gets that hot I can feel the power drop off a bit

Fins r in good shape and water flows freely

OK I was thinking I should be lower in temp.... So 210 is ok . What is the max safe operating temp before I should shut down

I have an inline temp gauge hooked up so I get a constant reading . even if it was not calibrated correctly it still should show a diff in temp. But i could have a diff problem but I doubt it. How can I check my rad for flow. If I dump water in the top it comes right out the bottom pretty quick so I dont think it is clogged up. If I am moving temp is around 190 if i start to slow down in tight trails it gets up to 210 pretty quick and today when I was blasting down the road 6 gear 3/4 throttle it actually climbed instead of dropped.190-210

Have used both in the last three months and neither one did what it claimed to do.I also ran straight water and the temps are the same all the way around. Impeller is good but it is stock

It broke off on me today. When I tore the motor down it was loose the locking nut had backed off. I followed all directions in clymers in reassembly and it broke off while riding today . Just looking for ideas as to why so it dont happen again

Nut that holds water pump gear on came loose. I didnt pu lock tight cause manual did not say to. So I'm gonna locktight and retourque to specs

first thing i would do is a leak down

Is it poss for it to be my crank. never had a prob before. i tore down cause the seals went out. At each stage of the build I made sure everthing turned freely and went in and out of gears as it should. i hope I dont have to split cases again but its lookin that way.Just give me some ideas on what to look for and pay attention to. Bearings in crank had no up and down play at all and pin bearings are new. I think I will pull clutch cover look and pull cyl just to make sure rings are correct and if that dont work then we know whats next

Its not just stoping it binds and is hard but I can still turn it to turn plus like I said it does it at diff spots eack time

Just put in all new seals gaskets and pistons. Did a leak down ... results good. Put on pipes and carbs and started her up. Let it idle for about 3 min and it shut down. Started right up again and cut out . Went to kick again and it was very tight. Thought maybe pistons were seizing so I pulled the head off. Not what happened. pistons had a lil shake back and forth. pulled sator cover everything looked good. Then I turned the flywheel backwards and it spun freely. So I go forwards again , it will turn about 8 times then tighten up. Backwards half a turn will free it up then i CAN GO FORWARDS ANONTHER 8 TIMES BUT IT ALWAYS STOPS IN A DIFFERent spot. left tdc right tdc both cyl halfwy. I am tired now and its very hot so tommorow I will pull the clutch cover. Anyone have an idea of what I should be lookin for???????

your mailbox is full Ne way can I get a trcking number

Is it true that with the boysen pro series dual stage reeds you do not have to run the stock stopper plate? I do mostly trail riding and want to set my bike up for a good low mid so are these reeds better than the v forces for this type of riding?

I will take the asv clutch lever pm me final price and paypal Is it the c5 or f3 model Do you have brake lever too?

if you think having more compression with your old oversize sleeve and new ring...forget that What the fuck r u talkin about? Cyl is in good shape rings r worn. Running old worn ass rings will get snagged and fuck a whole lot of shit up which can be avoided for 50 bucks. So before you say eralivent shit out ur mouth know what your talkin about fucko

If ne one knows somebody good that will do used pipes let me know

I def only buy wiseco but they were in the bike when I got it. Also called a couple places and magic atv is gonna special order for me. great customer service good lookin savage

This winter I am tearing down for a total rebuild. i have stock cyl that I am getting ported for a 4 mil. Thanks for the 2 sites I will give them a call today 3SGTE Rings in there r a lil worn dont want to thrash my motor being a dumb ass

You showed me a mfg website I am not a wholesaler so they will not sell to me. I also check all the distributers they listed and none of them carried the rings I need just whole piston sets. That is why I asked again. So I guess i have to just say fuck it and buy some wisecos that i will only use for 3 months tops

nobody knows if i can swap rings on different brand pistons???????????

Yeah I got to wait for my piston to get here neway so i just go get it welded

i have some namura pistons in the bike rite now but I cant find a retailer that sells only the rings. Can I use wiseco? I dont want to buy new pistons cause i am 80 over and I got a set of stock jugss waiting for winter to get port work done. I just want to ride the rest of summer on them. I have the topend off right now so i figure it is a good time to hone and rering.

here is a pic cant actually see the crack but it is about 1.5 inches across the bolt hole picture

I was putting the stator cover bolt in and cracked my caes . It is the bottom bolt hole rite under the gear shifter . Iguess it was filled with dirt. Will the crack spread if I ride it like that or do I have to get it welded first. The crack runs the same way as the bolt