Justintoxicated

BTW the ground is extreamly easy to flot on the RS even if you have one that is not floated, no matter which version you have (unless it is really really old). On some of them it's simply removing a screw (isolating the ground). The other version is not much harder but you need to re-solder that lead... However it is a little cleaner getting them pre-wired so you get 2 yellow wires. In the version on the site linked to the OP, I'm not sure why the author did not just solder the end of the coil to the black wire, instead he ran a new wire, but if your not going to use the ground, you could just as well have re-used the black wire.

I have a feeling he has new kits, I have posted pics on this topic before, with pics of the bolts that do not fit, as well as sent them to the seller. but in the end I would have to piece together a new kit for myself (lots of work) Or just buy another kit to fill in the missing bolts (maybe???) but I refuse to do that when I already purchased from this guy. Why should I have to pay an extra $100 for another kit? I'm getting pissed off and tired of buying parts that don't fit up properly or need to be modified etc to work on the banshee so when I come across them (like this bolt kit) I will continue to post my feelings on it. Sure It was only a wasted $100 but it still sucks.

your right about the A-arms I got it backwards lol. He provides nuts washer and then lockwasher. Thats a ton of hardware, I just use flange nuts on my wheels. Might not be stainless but it is alot less stuff to drop in the sand.

I have those on my banshee as well (got them for X-mas) they are quite the hot ticket. But I'm going to continue running my trailtech HIDs on the handlebars to fill in the shadows they cast. The beams are decent but not perfect. They are kind of a spot / line beam pattern, so nice floods on the handlebars helps. It was quite an experience duning with them last weekend (I forgot to take pictures though doh!). Setting one a click on the spline higher than the other helps apread out the beam. They were as cheap as $75 each when they were on sale + 25% off coupon I have mine mounted in the same place so try them out and let us know what you think. You know my experience now, looks like theres going to be a few banshees running them at glamis now showing the 4-stroke up with out old school mounting hah BTW my buddy tested the lights on a power supply and they ran down to 7 volts. Thats way better than the trailtechs I have which shut off at 10v and do not auto re-strike. They are not as stylish but thats ok by me. I'm running them with an Odysse 310 battery, I like your battey mounting though, it looks nice and clean.

Dominator > Interceptor.

yep see edited post above.

They were packaged great, but only 1/2 of them fit what they were intended for....I got the kit from fastnerguy. It's probably going to cost me another $50 to piece together bolts for the rest of the bike, so I said screw it and just left the stock bolts. The upper arm bolts fit if you don't mind the nylock nuts being on the very end threads, none of the swingarm bolts fit. Footpegs were not included and good luck finding those anymore, but you might be able to get some custom made. Lower A-arm bolts are not included. None of the engine mounting botls fit (well the 2 long ones kinda fit but they are not allenheads), brake hub bolts did not fit. He sent me a some more bolts to try to make it right but they simply did not fit. Couple other thigns you can only use one of the botls due to specialty yamaha bolts (like for the steering stem). Front hub/caliper bolts are not included. Light bolts fit, plastic bolts fit, case bolts fit, brake resevor and other stuff mostly fit. Reed bolts fit, side case cover bolts fit (but I already had both of those), wheel nuts were garbage (who wants to use a nut washer and lockwasher for each of the wheel nuts?) I ended up with alot of extras. I was able to use bolts that did not fit one thing to fit something else sometimes, so thats a plus.

Jbirdman - this is the problem caused by the cheap bolts that the hardware kit fixes. They still make the best High Output banshee Stator. Its very easy to float the ground as well. You should have sent yours back rather than throwing it away, the new upgraded hardware is grade 8 allenhead bolts, these are not going to break off like the cheap china bolts... Lots of people had the same problem with the other screws coming apart, at least the took the initiative to fix the problem and warrantied my stator for free (I purchased the origional from them 8 years ago!). Still sucks when you break down because of problems no doubt... Just wait till you HQ guys see my new HID setup next thanksgiving! Anyone want to buy some trailtech HID's?

If you get a 4 mil cub though you should have more lowend than a stock motor. I don't drag much and I still love my cub....Total Dune bike setup here but lots of power to pass the 450's at the hill as well. I do wonder if I will lose some response or lowend switching to 35's to get a few more HP. I may have to keep my eyes open for new carbs but it does run fine with 33's! 39's would give me more topend for sure, but like I said this is a dune bike so I like my responsiveness...

I have the stuff from lowes when you first put it on it heats up and gets really soft. This is the enforced stuff with nylon or whatever. I have been running it for a few years now, it looks good but the stock stuff is better. If I was going to do it again I would get some of that metal hose stuff as it still looks nice but won't get as soft. (Not sure where to buy it). So I jsut keep buying this cheap shit and replacing when I rebuild. If you dye the coolan it will also dye the hose. The hose will discolor after 6 mo use anyways...

Acording to trailtech they are only 30 watts each unless you go with the 4" (I would recommend the 4" lights over the MR16 ones that I have about 30-40% more light output supposedly, although I have not used them I wanted to try them just too $$$ to upgrade for me). I'm going a different cheaper and probably brigher route and I may eventualy post pics... I'd go with a new stator and flywheel unless you want to run a larger battery (although I would recomend that too). The flywheel helps create more power at idle (brightens halogen lights at idle; HID's do not dim and brighten like halogens, but the halogens activity I saw does indeed show that the flywheel helps create more idle power which is less strain on the battery)... Supposedly the new trailtechs have autorestrike so you might get by without the flywheel stator and larger battery but its best to not have your HID's restriking all the time anyways. Since banshees don't make much power at idle, my HID's would go out when the voltage drops. i.e. Nnail the brakes / (and sometimes it would kill the motor )to prevent flying off razorback or landing in a witches eye etc). Leaving the light son at idle until they start to go out would also deep cycle my little trailtech lead acid (damages the plates because it is not a deep cycle battery). My older trailech MR16 HID's do not come back on untill you turn them off, and then back on, (for better or worse since your damaging your battery if you keep trying to pull power from it while it is dead or really low). This is not something you want to be fiddeling with while riding.... Supposedly the new one will re-strike if they lose power then restart when they get power again, but let us know if you get them as I don't have any experience with these. Supposedly trailtech rates all their stators at idle (just talked to them recently) and told me there is no way I can run 3-4 HID's with the banshee stator but I'm doing it fine now that I have a huge ass Odyyse 310, High output stator, and flywheel. I have some videos I need to upload to youtube or somewhere but they kinda suck...I do shut off 2 lights when idleing for a period of time (waiting on people or taking a break etc just to save my battery even though it is bad ass now hah) Also Trailtech does not make a high output stator or flywheel for the banshee your best bet is probaly ricky stator. I would call him and request a stator with the ground already floated, although it's not difficult at all to float the ground on his stators yourself (have to solder one wire and disconnect the ground screw). There have been some problems with his stators recently (I keep a spare now) but I think he finaly has it right, so long as the one you pickup has the grade 8 allenhead bolts holding the stator to the timing plate. Overall runing HID's is pretty easy, the only difficult part is mounting your battery. (I would not recommend a Cap if you want to run 2 HID's)

siged lmao. Maybe he did not have a dremel but used a chisel or sharp stone?

wow these look worse than allpro. Now I want to see the other ports

Well its been proven that a quality foam filter will filter particles better than K&N. K&N and other mesh filters do not filter out small particles very well. However Foam is more restrictive and yes it retains too much junk, and plug sup quickly. It would probably be better for your motor to run a foam filter in the dunes, but you might have to clean it after every ride to maintain performance... Despite K&N's not being great filters they work well enough on the banshee when you add outerwears it's not like a car where you have to have the motor last you 100's of 1000's of miles, these motors don't last that long anyways before needing a rebuild and the K&N filters well enough to now blow up your motor so long as you maintainn and replace them every so often. I wonder how well those dry filters like the AEM would work on the banshe?. NAH screw that with all the oil from the carbs backspray and the expense of cleaning them, probably not worth finding out. Gotta stick with Foam or Gause...

True but after looking at my crank starting to seperate from just pipes I would split the cases true and weld it anyways... To ensure reliability....

I have 4 mil cub with 33PWK's and +2 for a dune bike. Awesome setup. You will need to true and weld your stock crank, so I would just replace and and get a 4 mil the first time and do it right... Probably better with larger carbs but it's enough for me with the 33's for now. I'm loving the +2, but at the hill a +4 would be more ideal (depends what you like but definately not stock IMO). Fortunately for me I don't care about drag racing much, its all about the dunes and I love to wheelie around the bowls on command. I was skeptical on the +2 but I don't think I'm going to change it anymore. Might as well go with the larger displacement. You will also need new domes if you go BB.

You don't need the kit to get rid of TORS symptoms, the parking brake problme you have is just part of the system (the one that causes the most problem case the switch sticks), just get a parking brake block off and new clutch lever would be better IMO. The kit removes the PITA FUGLY Giant Carb tops, which makes it easier to spin the carbs to jet them, but aftermarket carbs may be better money spent. Not saying it's not worth it (if you plan to stay with stock carbs for a while) but simply unplugging the TORs and getting a nice cheap yamaha Factory clutch lever w/ blockoffplate is better bang for the buck IMO.

True but foam filters plug up way too fast in the dunes. They filter too well...

That torchworks looks nice is the PWR cheaper? I never had a problem with the stock radiator + engine ice, but I would probably go aftermarket if my stock one ever gives out. hell I need to add that to my stock parts list!

From what I read they are still solid (using same ol design). Glad to hear you like them, since thats what I ordered myself. The shipping is slow though.

Wes here is an awesome deal for you I wuold not hesitate to jump on this. Normally I would not recommend purchaisng memory from Lenovo but someone mentioned it may be a bit difficult to replace on this laptop. (I'm not sure as it looks extreamly easy on the X61S I ordered.) so you may want to research that to see if you can save some cash. Dell has a 2GB DDR2 667MHZ for $8 if you can find the $25 off coupon (they are available on ebay lol). Or I just ordered 4Gb 2x2gb from newegg PQI DDR2 PC5400/5300 667MHZ for like @63 + shipping. Here you go man this deal is really hard to beat so long as it meets your needs for a laptop. Its not the best laptop in the world but IBM's should be really good quality and it says the savings off retail is almost $1200 which is almost unreal (Although I believe this is a discontinued model, it is still a thinkpad). http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1259936 I'd suggest the 7 cell battery and Burner if you need them which increases the price a bit. Don't forget to apply the Paypal coupon!

If your going to go with a 10 mil just get a regular cheata or better (Cheata DM) so as to take advantage of the larger reed cages. Otherwise 4mil cub is best bang for the buck.

About tree-fity http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plShzNaq9wk&NR=1

Nice i was jsut going to suggest that something broke when the flywheel came off...Damn those flywheels. Lucky you it didn't take out your picku coil or stator.

Need pics.