Justintoxicated

I dont think you will want shearers if you want to keep lowend. I have ridden a dune port (non-4mil) from Jim with shearers and it is pretty fst, but the lowend is terrible. It was much better with Fatties / CPI's as far as lowend. A nice coolhead, timing advance and some race gas would help too.

Are the new turiors faster or power hungry than C2D's? I thoguht the C2D Low Voltage Processors were far superior? If not I'm pretty sure the C2D I posted above for 1/2 as much is a better deal, you can pickup laptop memory cheap on the egg. $80 for 4GB or $30 for 2GB...Vista Premium is a plus but theres $500 dells on sale with C2D's with premium right now too, but your probably going to put XP on it anyways .... I'm getting my 12" Lenovo for the same price as that samsclub deal...Less some of the accessories but im sure you can get a much better 15.4" laptop for that much money.

Sounds like possibly a software issue. Do you have an Nforce MB? I would check in device manager and remove and re-install drivers for the CD-ROM. If you have an Nforce Mb there is an integraded driver superpack that might help.

Go for it Linux is nice if it fills your needs.

Correction: "Worstbuy" please refer them them properly

It is similar but google earth seems slow to me and not as detailed as far as graphics. The MS version seems more integrated too but time will tell who wins... google is no slouch

Thats pretty good advise however these days you pay more for a smaller screen it seems at least when you get into the ultra portables...Onboard video memory is not necessarily all that important depending on your needs. Going to a store your probably but not necessarily going to get raped...Check the Dell outlet and Lenovo Outlets before you go shopping at a B&M store.

lol macs becoming the king, with Mac you pay more for less and thats that....For editing sure they are good but the only reasons they don't have problems like PC's is because they have so much less hardware support. Basicaly the hardware options for them are very limited so there are less drivers (they advertise no drivers lol although drivers still exist!) etc to worry about supporting and hence have less problems since they are not as customizable. It would be like buying some kind of Banshee that has very limited upgrades vs a regular banshee that can have limitless upgrade but all kinds of problems with them (depending on what you get, support for the product, quality of the product etc). Thats pretty much how it is althoguh MS is screwing the PC market right now with Vista esp on laptops...I have to agree with you there. That said I like my friends Mac laptop it looks nice and sleek but I have heard complains on the durability of their smaller models. My Vote for laptop is Lenovo/IBM depending on what you want it for. It sure is not a gaming machine, but then again I don't consider any laptop a gaming rig...Guess I'm Biased as I just purchased my first personal Laptop IBM Levovo X61S after some extensive research. Also I just ordered a $415 Compaq and I'm simply amazed what you can get for $500 after tax and shipping these days. Compaq has Core 2 Dueo 1.46 ghz, DVD Burner with lightscribe, built in mic 3 USB ports 15.4inch screen etc. its quite nice and exceeded my expectations 9with the exception of Windows Vista being the only OS offered with it), however I'm still returning it for a lenovo since I have some extra X-mas cash and wanted something smaller. Either way I will be instaling XP even though I will not be able to utilize 4GB of memory (its overkill anyways but memory is dirt cheap on Newegg 4GB for $80!) ..... Basicaly this is what I got only upgraded processor CD Rom Etc...Best to upgrade the hard drive and mem yourself this one can only use 2Gb but if your going to toss XP on it then it's all you really need anyways. Here is a link to some of the laptops I was considering and my thought process, Add Dell since they are on sale as well jsut too expensive for my blood. http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1257135 I think this is the best deal around right now (or one of them) for a budget laptop. I don't have any real experience with HP/Compaq but it is sitting in front of me and seems pretty nice even has scrollbars on the touch pad (like on the macs where you can use 2 fingers to scroll). I probably should have just stuck with this guy and added 2GB memory for $40....But of well i always wanted a Lenovo... http://bensbargains.net/index.php/0/8 http://www.shopping.hp.com/webapp/shopping...ryday+computing

Also take a look at the grain forged wiseco basket. Should be a good deal stronger than regular billet ones. My friend that helped me drill out the rivots on the stock one said it looked to be noticably better quality than the hinson (not that you necessarily need that much quality and technology in a clutch basket)... That said stainless sounds nice too, I can't imagine it would weigh too much more than adding something like a lockup clutch...

Started the Rebuild. http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1251756 Dogsboytoy, if your using the plastic barbs on the thermochill Radiator from DD please keep an eye on them. Upon removal I found I had a slight leak which lead so some buildup around the barbs over the last 3 years...Not quite enough to drip but I no longer trust the plastic barbs. Turns out DD and everyone else is selling Plastic BSPT barbs or NPT and using tape to seal them up, but the actualy radiator is BSPP. I had to order barbs from Canada as all the US distributors have been out of stock for 6 months and many are listing the metal barbs as discontinued...

I have never heard of the trinity adjustable ignition. Are you talking about the Dyna Ignition to replace the stock CDI? Honestly I would not just toss everything on at once, one thing at a time. They have you replacing ALOT of stuff...I guess I would rather have a Dyna Ignition than a timing plate, however you can get a timing plate for damn cheap compared to the Dyna Ignition system, I mean your talking about $35 vs $250 http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/product...products_id=131 The billet ones are a rip IMO (you don't see it anyways)

Trinity and their single carb kits... They really do love to push that setup. Quite pricy too. Single carb kits are good for Lowend, but will take away from your top speed performance. That said, on a pretty much stock banshee it may work great since the carb your changing to is much larger anyways. However you should realize that trinity took advantage of you. They are pushing a product to give you more "lowend" but that does not have to do with your problem of the bike not reving up. Sure a new carb might fix the problem but you will have to jet it just like the carbs you have on the bike now that you seem to be having a problem with. 1) You should have done your homework before purchasing a single carb setup (Calling trinity is hardly doing homework ). If you can't get the stock carbs to work good luck with the single, less people run them so jetting advice may be more scarce, other than that my buddy got the same setup from trinity and had nothing but problem with the lectron carb, however others sear by them. 2) Were you by chance starting the bike and trying to rev it up with the parking brake engauged? (this will prevent the bike from reving up and it will fall on it's face) 3) Did you purchase a blockoff plate for the parking brake? (one favorite mod is to get rid of the flimsy POS stock loose clutch lever and ditch the parking brake - long story but it does cause this issues sometimes even when it is not engauged. Basicaly if you loaded the bike, used the parking brake, unloaded it, unlatched the parking brake, it might still fall on its face, playing with the parking brake lever a bunch may solve the problem you are having). 4) Disconnect the tors? (Tors system will cause the same symptoms as the parking brake in $3, the whole system is connected, I have never had a problem with the rest of the TORS system but I have had a problem with the praking brake. The TORS box is the little electronics box on the front left hand side up under the bike) Switching to the single carb will eliminate this TORS system (good thing) However you can simply unplug the stock carbs from it and ditch the parking brake and acomplish the same thing) You should Disconnect the TORS system when you go to a single carb and get rid off all the excess crap (like the wires coming out of the throttle and the extra electrical crap. I'm assuming you have fresh sparkplugs in there? It's hard to say what is wrong without seeing the bike, but just thought I would list some easy stuff first. Finaly Jetting sea level should be something like a 28-32 main jet (Start rich) with needle on second clip (I think it was second clip from the top but it has been a while) jet and you can probably get by with the stock pilot or go to the next size up. You need to learn how to adjust idle and air screws to help with your idleing however if it idles for a few minutes but will eventualy shut off without using the choke it sound about right! It would be a good idea to remove the bottom of the carb and remove the main jet to see what you have in there, same for pilot (AND POST THEM HERE). Might as well clean them out while you are at it. A plugged pilot jet will prevent the bike from idleing or cause problems. (poke it out with a twisty tie) A clymers manual would have been a better purchase for you than the single carb IMO. Welcome to the HQ, but beware of the BS...

Yea it restars and goes into testing mode. Not the one where it asks if everything is ok. It has not done it for a while now though maybe it was some kind of software or battery glitch. Or maybe it cause I have a Refurb?

A single for SMR16 for sure. I have sceen both side by side and one SMR16 is much brighter. get the largest lithium ion pack. I might be selling 2 of my smr16's real soon (one spot and one flood) if you want those for your banshee.

I have the stock hub on a g-force axle.

Anyone else played this one? I don't think it will come out for X-box or PS3 as they are probably not fast enough to handle the load. Whoever says graphics are not important is in denial. This game was worth playing jsut because the graphics and interactive environment. Shoot through trees in the jungle and stuff falls down, branches break etc, crash into small trees in a jeep and they will break, shoot someone in dense tall grass and you will have to go search for it. You can shoot out tires on vehicles etc. And the graphics are by far better than any other game out too. On Medium it probably still has better graphics than any other game, but on high and ultra watch out. Water effects look real. Run under a waterfal and get water on your goggles and watch it beed off as you run. I love it! I stopped playing bioshock at the beginning, and World in Conflict, it's hard going back to bioshock now because the graphics just don't compare and the gameplay isn't much better if at all, in bioshock when your standing under water it has a pretty neat effect but crysis takes it to a whole new level. You probably need at least an 8800GTS to run it, it runs alright on my old overclocked opteron and 8800GT as well. Need SLI and DX10 to really enable ultra and forget about running any kind of AA at 1920x1080p. But even without it just wow... Here are some screenshots of the regular gameplay. I'm going to try the DX10 hack later tonight to enable the DX10 effects in DX9. http://webpages.charter.net/bliss/

Uhhu, sure. Not quite ready to go there yet lol. Theres not that much play so if I really do Need to replace both I guess I won't bother replacing either. I have sceen many banshees that are worse. Guess it just means new axle and hub every season or 2...

If your going with the SMR16 HID from trailtech I would go with the flood for dunes. Leave a spot in the stock location. This way you will light up all the crap around you with the flood. The spot on the bike will light up stuff farther away. I have 4 (2 of each but only run 3) I prefer 2 floods and one spot for dunes. 2 spots and one flood for hauling on the flats. Hope this helps.

my last 3 ricky stators used the cheap china screws...Last one was purchased only last weekend.

Ill have to disagree, I had new axle and hub and now the hub is lose splines on axle look fine. I'm not going to be able to afford a new hub AND g-force axle every two trips. Thats just not going to happen. And I replace sprockets without replacing my chains too. Sprockets simply don't last as long as chains. Usualy I can go 3-4 sprockets front and 2-3 rear before the chain needs to be replaced. Sure the next sprockets will last longer with a new chain but it's not cost effective to buy a new $100 chain every few trips when I can jsut toss on a new $7 sprocket.

This is just an FYI. If you are using a ricky stator that has 3 cheap ass screws holding the stator to the timing plate, make sure you upgrade the mounting hardware. Almsot every trip one of us has problems with our stators, usualy due to screws backing out of them then trashing the pickup coil. Last trip one of my screws actualy broke off in the timing plate allowing it to back out and trash my pickup. Had to get towed behind a buggy for over 10 miles... I called Ricky Stator and they said they are now using grade 8 allen head bolts rather than the cheap china screws. Upgrade your hardware before you get stranded.

the flywheel does not make anymore peak power for your lights (high RPM's). It just provides more power at lower RPM's (power comes on sooner). This is according to ricky stator. To produce more peak power you need to modify the stator.

So I have had my new Cub motor for 2 trips now and my stock sprocket hub suddenly has play in it. Not bad neough to replace yet but I need to start looking and saving for something with steel splines. Any Recomendations? Looks like RPM no longer sells a banshee sprocket hub.

Footpegs, Front Plastics, Sub Woofer + enclosure, Wheel Hub, still for sale.

Definately get some new carbs The stock ones are a super PITA to jet.