Justintoxicated

Theres a 16x samsung SATA burner on sale right now for $26 if you shop around, might even be cheaper to just replace the drive than clean your old one, and definately cheaper than having someone replace it for you. Its not very complex for a tower, couple screws to unmount the drive, a power cable and a data cable. SHould take 5-10 minutes tops.

Why not hook the computer up to the TV? 1080p is awesome for use as a monitor. Just use straight DVi if your TV supports it, or pickup a DVi to HDMI adapter from monoprice.com And to the other guy it's far from the best looking game Too bad they don't have crysis for PS3 you would shit your pants. Then again Not sure crysis would have good multiplayer...

I probably wont even be awake by 10 am... lol And theres not way in hell I can make it from gecko to the beach store and then to china! I doubt I will even make it to china from my camp. You guys have fun though! I'll stop by the HQ camp though easy to find that trailer

2 of these in stock location + 2 MR16 HIDs on the bars. Don't the helmit lights run off a battery pack? I run 3 lights, but I think it's slowly killing the battery, of course it charges back up in the daytime so it works out well. I have even run 4 lights for a while without problems since upgrading to the Odysse battery.

I'm not going to say that it is not your battery, but from my experience I can't be certain it is your battery. My Old Epox MB would always lose Bios settings when unpluged, even on a new battery (my first logical thoughts as well). My old DFI NF4 board (I'm still using which cost about 4 times as much) has never once lost bios settings even after removing the MB from the PC completely. It could just be the model of the board IMO, but it's hard to determin. Those batteries should be good for at least 5 years if not 10, but like I said replacing the battery in my Old MB never solved the problem. (Not sure what good the battery actualy was, since that is what it is for!) If it is a cheaper MB and replacing the battery does not work, you can either deal with it or buy something else. Sorry I can't be of more help, but this is actualy the reason I got my UPS in the first place. My only advice is to write down your settings on and index card and keep it in a safe place. My Theory is that my old MB was doing this because it was using overclocked settings, but the board has since died from leaking caps. Maybe you can play and let us know if it still loses its settings when not overclocked.

lol nah, my PC is much faster than PS3 All I need now is that Combo Blueray /HD Drive which I may have to pickup soon. But to me $230 for a combo player is still too much since it does not burn blueray disks. So you can imagine why I don't have PS3 lol.

Can't tell shit from those pics of your plugs...Need to see if there is a dark choco colored ring at the bottom of the ceramic pice, also need to see the plug's arms which are facing the wrong direction in the pic. But yep, those are sprak plugs

Run Castor 40-1. If your getting a bog @ 1/2 throttle raise the needle (Lower the clip) one position and try again. Take the white plastic part of the filter and cut off all the supports so you just have the base piece and so that it looks like the NOSS Billet adapter for the K&N. Drill 2 holes into the flat part of it and through the front of the airbox to permanently mount it (Zip ties or screws) And silicone (RTV works fine) your new imitation billet adapter to the front of the box (how it would normaly attach but pulled tightly against the front of the box). Just make sure there are no leaks. The K&N filter can now clamp on to this plastic piece without buying the Billet adapter plate.

banshee comes 12v AC and RS does not make a 300 watt stator. once you convert to DC you will onyl have about 150 watts max due to the conversion and rectifier taking some power away but it's best event hen to stay under that total or you will be drain your battery. Fuses are usualy rated in amps, the volt rating is for the votlage range the manufactures feels it is safe to use on. not sure you will be able to find a 12v AC fuse or ther about the stator puts out more than 12v...And this would do nothign more than prevent fire more than likely the switch would already be toast by the time the fuse blows... Relays w uld work for DC but may or may not be more expensive than just running seperate wires, and switches which might be useful, unless you always want all 4 lights on, then relays would be the way to go. You could also set on to turn on 2 lights on low and tadd the other 2 on high. A Relay has a sense circuit that detects on and off, and then can safely powereach light if it is rated to do so. So basicaly it takes the load off your switch and puts it on the relay instead.

Well It was cheap and works as well or better than many of the more expensive ones. I have an ASV brake lever, the only reason I would replace my Yamaha Factory Clutch lever would be so the other side is the same color. I heard something about some levers not having enough pull to push the rod in the backet, but im not sure how much truth there is behind that. Anyways for the price it would definately be hard to beat and is 100 times better than the OEM clutch. Heres a link, not the best picture though.... http://www.parkeryamaha.com/browseproducts...r-Assembly.html

My Trailtechs are MR16 not the MR11" or the 4" I have been using them since they first released them at the SSSS. 4" didn't come out until a year later or I probably would have gone with those. Only one trip on these but that ran flawless and startup much faster than the trailtechs (as most HID's do).

that sucks man

not too many of those wandering the sand dunes

Well I'm finidng this to not be so true. These 2 are much brigher than all 4 of my Trailtech HID's which were quite a bit more expensive. The color of the bulbs on my lights is pretty white, not quite 6000k blue to my eyes, well it's about he same as my Dad's 5000k HID's anyways but not 4300k for sure, but some of that is preference in taste anyways... The difference in lumens isnt that bad in any case, and hell I could replace the bulbs when they go out. The plastic housing on this light seems fine for an atv because it looks and feels solid and weighs alot less and is replacable! I have cheap JDM HID bulbs and balasts in my truck and going on 3 years now no issues, while people I ,know have cheaper china HID's purchasead at the same time without any problems as well. Bulbs are not super expensive anyways and balasts are replacable. I could get 2 new china bulbs and ballast online for a little over $100 from a place that will warranty them if anything should happen. I do agree that the BD lights are nicer but not as much as the price would indicate, thats why I said I'd pay $200 for a single light on the handlebars Also the Kragen lights can be found for as little as $75! I could buy 5 of them for the price of a single $400 light! I'm pretty sure these will be lasting longer than a season without any issues, but time will tell. In the end I was quite suprised at what I was getting for $85 each.

I used to run 2 75 watt bulbs off the factory switch and never had a problem. I think all your lights is stressing the stator, @ 170 watts you are certainly pushing it.....200 Watts is peak at high RPM, so most of the time your probably straining the stator. I had much better luck with running only 2 50 watt ligths off the stator, and switching to mroe efficient halogen bulbs than came with my lights. The brown stuff is probably nothign more than the protective coating getting hot.

Custom creations A-arms come with Uniballs, should be much stronger than heims.... Chromoly + No heims, the Uniballs go right into the end of the A-arms meanig the force put on them is much more distributed since it's not a threaded piece sticking out of the end of arms. I have Uniballs on my truck to, they are just a little larger. The only disadvantage of the uniballs is they don't cover as wide a range of movement, which does not matter on the banshee a-arms... Imagine this on a banshee http://www.off-road.com/toyota/projects/ta...ront_detail.jpg

Gotcha, it would make sense if it turns out to be the crank, mine was starting to seperate just from pipes (no porting) (but not twist or come out of phase). Something had to of caused your previous failure, sounds like its coming back to haunt you. Good luck im out of ideas.

for a 10 mil I would probably spend the money on a DM Cheata, or Regular Cheata and skip the nice billet cases (unless you have extra money). The Regular cheatas use 250R Reeds which are larger and will wear less from a serious 10 mil motor. K&S sells a seal kit.

Sounds like your hose clamps are not seating on the correct part of the carb or filter. or you have the wrong size pods.

Contact your engine builder.

Did you check the crank when you pulled the topend apart?

Even new some are not accurate, also did you test the compression when cold or warmed up cause 162 cold is pretty high. 101 shounds pretty good though for around 170 PSI, but if your cold at 162 and your gauge is off a bit it's possible. Either way I would probably pull the head and go from there I suppose, could be the crank I guess, did you use the proper tools when installing your stator? is there any wobble on the crank when you turn it over by hand? is there more noticable vibration/wobble when you were reving the bike. Packing is probably not going to cause this. Did you remove the paper towels that were plugging the cylidners before you put the pipes on? heh I forgot to do that once!

Good question I used to have that happen when I used a filter :ermm: I don't run one anymore... Also, the fuel tank has a screen filter in it already, but not as good as those plastic ones. I tried one of those huge ass paper ones too, but it would not flow enough and leaned out my bike.

So probably backfring and not a parking brake issue, I would not run it then. Shut it down and pull the head I guess... Did you test the compression cold then I would assume? Probably detonating on one side

Try futsing with the parking brake (engauge disengauge) for a while (and see if it clears up while disengauged). Sometimes the switch will get stuck and cause one side to misfire or not rev up.