Justintoxicated

I'm thinking about picking one up to do some modifications to it....My friends will hate me if I change from 2 to 5 of those 1 watt LED's though! OUCH! Holes would need to be drilled considerably larger though! lol 5 LED's is an odd number he either has them all in series (in which case it is not likely they would be very bright or blow up or he has some strange parallel configuration with a resistor.... if they are 3V LED's in series they should handle anything the banshee can throw at them, but it is likely they would not be very bright at idle. Can you post pics of the housing? If you get a chance? I'm interesting in purchasing one for modding purposes, I would of course add on to the circuit I already have to run 2 of the LED's properly and replace a couple of them with My own LED's for a HUGE improvement.... I really jsut need a host I don't give a rats ass about the LEDs...how much was it? Thanks!

I never said Bills sucked horribly bad i even said theya re better than stock. In , but in a drag race then yea. The guy posting the review was saying that they pulled the most on top so thus he seemed to think of them as a topend pipe .... And then I was told they will smoke my Fattys which I never claimed were the best top end pipe either... So I don't see anything wrong with what anyone has posted.

Don't listen to these guys, Fattys make more HP throughout the powerband than T5's Except T5's reve out a little farther giving them a 2HP increase on top. you can buy a degree key for $15 that will give you a 2HP increase at top, and throught the mid-upper powerband. T5's are nicer looking though. It's going to come down mostly to the rider compairing these 2 pipes. If the hill/drag is long enough the T5 bike will eventualy catch up to you. THey are both similar and great pipes. SST's do typicaly make some more HP on a stock banshee, but Fattys work better with a ported bike so I would jsut get them instead.

Fatty's will be slightly better for your riding style probably, That said you should buy my Fattys with Powercore II's Nickle plated T5's have better finish on them though but also cost more $$

Fattys are cheaper than T5's so that would be my choice... Bang for the buck right? Fatty make more power on a stock motor allt he way untill the top, then T5 makes a little more. Fattys also work very well with porting but toomy makes a better silencer. Tooms also have a better chrome plating than FMF's Nickle plating which blows IMO. For porting go with CPI's or shearers. I like the shearers but they are like the Fattys finish wise (only they are single cheaply chromed rather than just plated) compaired to the chrome on the CPI's from what I have sceen, also shearers make more top than CPI's, but I'm really thinking about going with CPI's cause I don't think I will have to rev the motor quite as much to get into the power which should make it easier for me to dune. Finish on the pipes is not performance, but I'm kinda pissed cause my Fattys are starting to get rust spots which makes tehm look like hell...Course the year after i got my fatys is when they increased the quality of their plating so the newer ones are likely a bit better than mine.. Dunno about LRD's....

Don't let them sit in oven cleaner too long, jsut long enough to take the anno off but not long enough to eat into the rim. Dunno what it would look like but can't be worse than gold rigth?

they all should flicker at idle because the AC Frequency is related to the revolutions of the flywheel which is related to RPM. Yea they might just be cheap, radioshack chargers a fortune for Blue LED's I would look elsewhere! Thanks for the pic... BTW is there a backplate on that tail light?

A 9 volt with this setup would be horrible, these are 2 very high power , Blue LEDs and 2 Red LEDs...it would probably last a whole 10 minutes...So yea I hooked them to the stator int his vid, no battery..The led light illuminating the already light garage is no exageration. (9volt batteries have hardly any capacity) Normal LED's draw hardly any power though. best thign is they are not fragile like neons and don't draw as much power as well as have a longer burn time (Longer than the bike will last).. Charging the battery should not be an issue. I just bought the Trailtech voltage rectifier to replace the regulator. The driver I created is very simple, I could use much more efficient drivers for a little more money, but since the battery I purchased is large and only used for the lighting and recharges as I ride, I don't see much of a need for high efficiency, I can always change it later... Plan to run 4 30 watt HIDs asap.

as long as any other shock probably, although the elka may last longer (???) but it's also 3x as much money...Rear shock housing is similar to aftermarket rear shocks on other quads...the internals are what suffer... It makes a pretty huge difference having your rear re-done...I was suprised.. if you planning to get an extended swinger do it at the same time so you only need to valve it once. I feel it will likely last longer than stock, since they are using better internals.

LOL they are not even close to the same wth are you talkign about? I have heard from many people about problems with Janseen Heims... I can take a pic of you want when I get my a-arms back fromt the chromer. I also talked to Gary at Quicksand, he informed me that the heims fireball Janseen etc use are all the same and are inferior quality to what he provides. yea Janseen may have lifetime warranty, but who wants to endo over the bars goign 80 mph down a drag stip...The least of your worries will be the lifetime waranty on the heim joint that failed.

shoudl be less than 300 I think from TCS but I don't remember for sure.

Ok instead of replying to the end of the other post I jsut figured I would post this here. Well for those of you interested...Otherwise go away and don't crap my thread LED VIDEO <------ Click Here SO yea I know a couple tricks to hooking up LED's...

Cheap LED's last a very long time...If properly setup, which I highly doubt was done for this taillight. Unless the guy provided a rectifier and current limitnig resistor. your missing my point....There is NO polarity on a banshee...Banshee is AC there is no + and - unless you have converted to DC...Yes the wires are marked this way (black and blue), but it is AC, and AC power is Alaternating current so there is NO polarity as it alternates back and fourth betweent eh 2 wires... you can flip the wires and it will do EXACTLY the same thing... Some LED's don't like their polarity to be reversed especialy if overdriven. Heres the deal... The right 3 LED's went because theya re wired in series. So if the first one poped the next 2 go out. Mount Blue LED's are around 3 to 3.5V, so you add them together. 3.5x3 = 12.5V your banshee often pueshes over 12V do to being AC and not as much voltage loss as from a rectifier... All the shee has is a voltage regulator, but it will spike as high as 14.4V. or maybe the red are 3.5V LED's and the Blue are 3V... Then the reds are only being slightly overdriven while the blues are way overdriven...They would need a resistor to drop the volts. something like a 100 ohms shoudl do the trick.. if you don't want to do it the proper way...make sure the resistor goes on whichever wire (does not matter cause AC power) that is connected to the LED's + side.

Ok I have another idea, the needle jet holder has a hole in one side of it (on the bottom), the needle jet holder must be installed facing the proper direction so the hole lines up with the proper place in the carb. I have a feeling when you put the needles back in you may have flipped this around. Your bike will not run correctly unless the hole in the piece that holds the needle jet matches the hole in the carb. Check it out I have a feeling you might you might have overlooked it, I know I have before. Just unscrew the tops of the carbs and check it out. Otherwise unlog the pilots with a twisty tie wire, it's possible a single piece of sand is plugging them if the carbs were dirty beflore you cleaned them.

Banshee is best for dunes, However you already have one so why not get a 450 if your going to get a second bike?

Thats what Batteries and Generators are for lol

LMAO

Thats what electric chainsaws are for.

K&N is great, UNI filters more crap out but is more restrictive.... SO it depends what you mean as better. There is always a trade off.. Nothign wrong with using a K&N and stock airbox... Hell I Didn't even use the adapter plate, I just modified the stock one (trimmed the supports), Siliconed and bolted it into place to hold the K&N. Don't take out the adapter plate just unclamp the K&N...

Check and see if your pilots are plugged. Maybe you plugged them while cleaning lol

You wanna put your title on that? I have never sceen a banshee with Bills pipes do shit, nor any builders that would recomend them over others. Do you honestly think I just read FMF's website and it says we make the most power so buy us so I do? I didn't say my pipes make the most HP of any pipe, but we all know fattys offer an incrase of HP throughout. T5's are similar with less HP across the whole band untill top where they make more than Fattys. There are many other great pipes, I just don't think Bills are one of them... That said they are good for the money if you don't care that much or plan to change them later... No I would not be pissed if I threw Bills Pipes on my banshe and they made more power, because that will not happen for more than one reason.

yea still with balljoints. I got some crazy super Heimes/Uniball on my custom creations A-arms, way stronger than fireball heimes from what I have been hearing. Probably much stronger than any ball joint also... Then again they are basicaly some kind of modified Heim Joint to be use on A-arms. They are HUGE and very Beefy, and the joint body is much thiker than a typical heim that looks like it might pop out if worn down. Good thing about balljoints is that they are sealed and keep crap out that would wear down a cheaper heim joint.

They change the internals, Spring and Valving. The stock shock is decent when setup right. I'd either get the Elka Aftermarket or have TCS revalve the rear. I hear TCS has much better valving than elka.

the Osram "IR" Bulbs are MR16 Bulbs...Not stock...