Justintoxicated

if you get it get the Iron Cross Spinner ATV rims to go with it!

How much does ceramic cost from Jet Hot? My Fatties are starting to rust too, hell they started to rust the fist month I owned them and I boguth them nickle plated. Nickle plating is no reason why they canot chrome since it typicaly goes copper then nickle then chrome on top... But the carbon inside the pipes worries shops... I was thinking about re-doing my Fatty's but only if it is not too expensive Hell I could not find a chrome shop that would do my A-arms for under $200. I'm thinking I would be better off just buying chrome CPI's..

I painted mine. Paint Stripper + Sand Paper + Duplicolor Metalcast red (about 8-9 coats) Looks f**king amazing IMO, matches the Red Anno Noss head almost perfectly.. I have pics at thome but my picture server is busted. Actualy I'll be posting some pics within the next month since I painted my cluch cover and stator cover to match.

Ok here is the problem with runing LED's on a banshee. The Banshee is Variable AC power. LED's really prefer DC power. In fact they only really work on DC power... Due to the fact that Voltage is variable, frequency is variable and voltage is AC, Typical LED's are not well suited for a shee without some kind of simple circuit. Radlites are probably 12V LED's not 2-3V LED"s wired for 12V, that is what makes them more resistant to death when voltage spikes on the banshee. on a typical LED a 1 volt increase drasticaly increase the amount of currnet consumed, on a 12V LED a 1 volt increase would not likely raise the current as much. (in this case) since Power=Voltage x Amps. When an LED is fed more voltage the curent also increases! so at double the voltage you would likely also be feeding nearly double the current to the LED! so if you had a 3V spike to a 3V LED it would likely also be recieving 2x the current. a 3V spike to a 12 V LED it would likely recieve an extra 1/4th current. for example 3V*30ma = .09 watts becomes 6V*60ma = .36 watts and 12V*.75ma = .09 watts becomes 15V*1 ma = .15 watts (not nealy overpowerd as much by a voltage spike) Still not really true, as in 2x the voltage does not necessarily mean 2x the current...This is simply an example to understand the basics. And to also explain why resistors are NOT well suited for regulating power or current on a bike like a banshee.

Yea and you can burn out (overheat and melt) your stator...

Don't see why not, I made it last year But you were already plastered I think you were doing burn outs on a rappy lol... Sure I can check tem out, hell if need be I'll swap the elites to ohlins valving, I hear it is similar to TCS valving. But I have heard from alot of people that say the elites are very good already. Have you tried elites or just dune series? Mine came out to $1150 cause I got a good deal, I think ohlins would have been a couple hundred more + $100 for the billet clamps for rezzies. I'm tired of botteming out my fronts when getting good air, I'm sick of using my bidy for a shock!

Sup? your still around eh?

Other than HID the best you can run off stock stator is 35 watt OSRAM IR Bulbs, they will put out the same light output as a 50 watt Halogen MR16. A little expensive but much brighter then typical Halogens since they Turn some of the energy normaly released as IR power, back into light energy. Not HID eficiency but better than typical Halogen. You probably need to contact Osram Sylvania about these bulbs to attain them.

porting increases your power and can be customized to yur riding style. If you want more info give Jim at Passion a call or PM him. There are several other good builders too. if you want normal porting you can go with trinity and let them rape you for $$. I don't know of any good porter who ports in stages as trinity calls it. I HATE it when people ask what stage my porting is. WTF! You will also need some other parts to go with your porting, basicaly a new topend and carbs should be considered. But yea it would be wise to use the search for a question like this so you can find a real question to ask. Or more specific Q's.

My friend had this EXACT problem. turns out he was running way too much compression. But also had other problems timing advanced too far, wasent getting proper spark from stator etc. He could only start it when it was warm or he had to have it towed by a truck to start it. It could also be your stator, or ignition coil causing the problem, also make sure there is nothing in your pilot jets. If the carbs are adjusted properly you should have to give it no throttle to start. Topend = Cylinder Bore, Hone, Pistons, Rings, bearings gaskets etc...Pretty easy to do the work yourself but may want some help if your a beginner. Better to find someone to teach you than to take it to a shop...(other than for the bore and hone) If you go this route also check the crank to make sure it is in spec while it is apart. I posted Stator specs the other day in the forum I would check that 2nd to cleaning the carbs and your pilot jets and checking compression. You should always check the compression with the bike warm. I think V-force 2 and 3 are about the same performance wise.

Im not either, but I have heard from numberous people that event he most basic Elkas are much better than steelers. I'll be testing them with 8 feet of air shortly.. Well maybe after a few to get teh courage up lol...

Right After the first 20 hours of break in you should rebuild but motor and start over

yea, there shoudl be a washer that you bend over the nut to lock it into place..

Your crazy man, Dyno a banshee with Bills and Dyno one with Fattys and tell me what wins.. In fact come out to glamis and we can race with my old Fattys. It's pretty much a known fact that bills pipes do not make alot of power, they are some of the worst rated pipes power wise for the banshee. But yes they are much better than stock, then again what isn't? And no I am not making fun of his pipes....Bills pipes are very cheap, but don't make alot of power, not even on stock shee with pipes vs another stock shee with different pipes. Nothign wrong with Fattys, at least they are better than T6's and SST and arguably better than T5's. Fattys make good power throughout the band, and work pretty decent on a ported banshee also... I'm having a difficult time finding pipes that have as much mid throttle power, thats why I still have them. Power up top is cool, but not everything.

I love that color, I just wich it was PC instead of paint... Probably going to buy a 05 red frame for mine.

get the right tool for the job...Harbor Freight = your friend...

Too late I already ordered them... Wish I would have found out sooner. I think the wait time for the ohlins is like 2 montsh or somethign right now anyways...I do hear Elka makes a superior shock body and some guys later take them to get ohlins valving...then you have the best of both worlds. I didn't pay 1400 for the shocks. I have heard many people are impressed with properly valved and properly set up elites. What problems did you have with them? Did you the the Dune Valving or MX valving on your elites? Were they setup for your weight and what style riding ? I ordered mine as follows Weight 200 lbs, Skill Expert, Dune Valving, +2 arms, Piggybacks. I weigh 190 and due to selecting skill level expert and not intermediate I expect them to be a bit stuff.

you could really use any Automotive switch you want SPST or DPDT. I'm curently involved ina HID project that will use all new switces (blue LED lighted switches) and a DC conversion. I'll be placing one switch for each of the 4 HID's on the Radiator cover.

Your not supposed to run Carb Cleaner Either....Not with Banshee Carbs..

Yea I forgot Only had the clutch cover off once aside from when I split the cases. Ended up grinding down the shift shaft a bit to make it fit (thanks RATBIKE) Looks bad ass now! And not as much flex in the shifter. Can't wait to really try it out and dull it up! So Mine is probably just off a bit, so I changed my mind it's not an F, but it was still pretty annoying... I really do like it now though A+ lol

Are you serious?

Looks like it's goign to be almost as much as a brand new one in a better color.. that sucks they are not Powder coated... I wonder how hard bending the subframe back at 1/4th inch would be

I would get a block of plate if it was me...seal that hole up...

I don't like the quality of lazer starts, I don't liek the way the Bulb is isolated and I don't like the design where water and sand can get in or the ring can come loose. I'd stick with trailtech or ricky stator if it was me... I do like the new double isolated trailtechs...

trail tech all the way, I don't Like loser star. Ricky stator all makes some billet lights. I'm selling my handle bar mounted illuminators soon.