blaster2006

can someone also link me a post , of have to remove that TORS box... not the actually huge bulky thing on top of the carb, just the thing that disables it...? its really easy right? cmon guys i need tips and answers.. im gonna buy it soon most probably

... where i live prices are diffferent lol like i mentioned, i sold my blaster for $2,200 it was only piped + V-force, it was an 06, aswell as the shee its an 06 model btw. i called him now, he said $3700 firm stock. btw it has maxxis tires and nerfs so not that stock. and he will drop it off, i better decide quick, i got 1 hour from when i posted this. tomorow he is travelling.

i so hope your right m8. he wants exactly $3,700, ill try and get it for 3500 ish. and he also has a whole set of BRAND NEW aftermaket parts which are as follows: Toomey t5 full system, K&N 2 into 1 air filter, v force 3 reeds, adjustable timing plate ( gonna be impossible to install), and carbon fibre handguards, and 260 mains lol. he has receipts, that he payed 1,100. and he wants 1k for them lol.... cause they are "brand new" lol. ill try and make a good deal for the quad and parts, ill offer $4,400. hope he accepts. AND i HOPE that, really hope, that i can fix this problem

the tors is on, when you mean unplug it for now, meaning that black box, where theres a post about it? and just cut the wires? i dont see how it can be the tors, honestly, i mean, all it does is limit RPM if parking break is on?? i dont see why everyone fusses about it. but anyway, back to my main point, by saying "unplugging" meaning that black little box?

come to think about it, i think its really not on low throttle, cause if it was it would happeon on all gears, its low RPM, cause, on 3rd gear + you cant really be on low rpms or it will turn off form bog and being too slow on that gear. here is the post i made describing it better http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=106779

ok, sorry to ask on your post but talking about powervalves, do shees have them on the stock cyl?

dont think its a problem, i had a set of brand new ones, and when i raise them in the light i see small holes too, if it runs good, leave it.

heya, as i posted in my topic on general shee discussion, i went and saw another banshee today, as im really gonna buy one soon. this was the best from allll the shees ive seen, other than this slight problem: im gonna try and explain this as well as i can... the shee was ... it seemed good... took 2 kicks to fire it up... i rode it, everything was mint, other than in 1st and sometimes 2nd gear, it sometimes like, turns off, i then quickly push the throttle in ( after it turns off), nothing happens for 1 second... (even after i pushed it in) then it quickly like jumps and pulls and turns back on... now, i did not notice it on 3rd gear +, but come to think about it, im thinking now its an RPM problem, i think its not on slow etc, but on low RPM's is when it turns off, its just cause when your in 3rd gear and above, you usually tend to stay at a good high RPM, even if the throttle is at like only 1/4 etc. if you understand what im trying to say. so if i had to guess its an RPM problem, and not actually jetting. on low RPMS or throttle, on 1st gear and sometimes 2nd like i said it turns off.. then fires back on.. funny enough, leave it alone to idle, it idles perfectly too. oh and, one thing is, if this might help, he is leaving it in his garage, and he isnt riding it, he had it there for maybe 1-2 months not riding it, with the fuel petcock on ON. just to let you guys know, cause i heard thats bad for plugs or something, if you keep the fuel petcock on ON and leave it for a long time? my questions: -is it a jetting or RPM/ engine problem ( my guess RPM). - if its true that it turns off on low RPMS, then fires back on etc, what kind of a problem am i looking at? maybe this "small" problem is why he is selling it. like i said though, it runs mint on low/mid - high rpms, so, whats the problem? and if any idea, how much would it cost to fix approx?

i guess since its a jetting problem id be better off posting in that section.. ill make a new topic, and hopefully get answers

update:: just came back, shee was ... it seemed good... took 2 kicks to fire it up... i rode it, everything was mint, other than the same problem as i had before... in 1st and sometimes 2nd gear, it sometimes like, turns off, i then quickly push the throttle in ( after it turns off), nothing happens for 1 second... (even after i pushed it in) then it quickly like jumps and pulls and turns back on... so it basically turns off for a split second... then turns back on... but on high revs it never happens ( notice this is not from mistakes in take off from idle, once im moving and the clutch is fully out it also happens), it mostly happens when im driving slow on 1st and turning,, it like slightly turns off like i said, i give it gas, and still for 0.5-1 sec its still off, the jumps, all the other gears and the rest of the ride is pretty much great, and accelerates fassssttt... on the higher gears... smooth ride too. So tell me guys, is this problem easy to fix? imo its a carb problem, what kind of jet is it? pilot? needle? the thing is stock so i dont think he ever changed any jet in it... if its easy to fix ill take it tomorow then lol. ive got some pics, of it, which cant really tell anything, but for the hell of it ill post em up. oh, and for some weird reason, he sprayed the whole thing with WD-40, everything, pipes carbs cylinders. everything. if it looks really clean, thats why hehe, just thought id say. oh and, one thing is, if this might help, he is leaving it in his garage, and he isnt riding itm, he had it there for manybe 1-2 months not riding it, with the fuel petcock on ON. just to let you guys know, cause ie heard thats bad for plugs or something, if you keep the fuel petcock on ON and leave it for a long time?

trust me, there is SHITLOADS. i really mean shitloads, in the very small country i live in, i guess theres maybe about 100 for sale, but not all of which i know of, but many many of them really plain out SUCK. alot of them dont even start, they look mint but dont even start.... i ignore those. going right now, soon, to see the first shee i saw, for a second time, i kinda forgot it, but from what i rememebr, like isaid, its the best one i think, other than the rear axle being rusted, aswell as chain, motor wise, its very mint imo, if he gives me a good price ill buy it. ill keep you guys updated. that one, i remember, took 3 kicks with choke to start, knowing that he ddnt ride it for about 3 months, from what he said, and i think i beleive him.

i wish i was in the US. i drool on all the insanely cheap banshee prices on ebay. its cause of the financial crisis imo. it ddnt really hit us here in the middle east, so quads are HIGH. if that shee was like 2k$, i woulda bought it without thinking, its casue he wanted 3,800... and thats the median prices of shees around here. the 07 and 08 shees are like... lol.. like $5,500... with pipes and filter. when i can buy brand spankin new at $6,500. retarded pricing here. but HEY, i sold my blaster for $2,200 xD

bah, well, if i cant find any new ones, im gonna buy a new 09 model, what im angry about is all the 06 and earlier models used to sell for only $5,500. now new 09 models are for $6500 new. for some reason, the average of all the used shees, about 06 on average cost all about $3800 ish. modded with pipes etc. so far the best shee ive seen was a yellow 06 one, the engine tbh seemed mint, but the chassis was rusted somewhat, the axle in back was RUSTED as well as the chain and sprockets, and rear brakes were doing that squeaky noise when you push on the brakes. but come to think of it, it was better than all the others, gonna go give it another look. he wants $3800 for it also, being it stock engine, but it has nerfs, rear tire spacers "4 inches wider, not axle, its spacers". and maxxis tires. because he claims its MINT excellent bla bla. i offered him $3,300 and id buy it now, he said no. but yeah ill take a look and we will see. ill look at other bikes, if not, screw it, ill borrow money from my parents and buy new.

hehe, yeah, btw, when quads in general, take that long to start etc, its usually the lack of compression, especailly that it runs fairly good when its actually on? i know when i had my blaster ( just sold it hehe), when it was brand new, it needs 1 kick (no choke) if i ride it the next day that is, time went by, then it would need 2 kicks, more and more, where it needed 2 kicks with choke on. i think its the less compression, the longer it takes, most of the time correct?

well, as you all know i sold my blaster and was looking at some shees, i found a good shee, etc, and i agreed to take it, he said he would drop it at my house, when it arrived, i was obviously just gonna test ride it abit. he took it off the trailer, put the choke, and we gave it maybe 7-8 kicks with choke, it wouldn't turn on. he then brought some gas in a small bottle with a small hole, and put some gas on the k&N filter PODS?. it then turned on with first kick, with choke on. the ride was bit weird, it had lots of power, but i felt that it had something wrong, the clutch for once, felt weird, when i pulled it in it felt bit tight, and took time, and same for letting it go, it was not smooth, its as if its getting stuck. the acceleration was also slightly weird, and lastly i noticed that the steering was bit loose, and by default would tilt slightly to the left. there was other small things, but i cant really explain them. what mainly scared me was that it really wouldn't start with a choke on (pulled fully), and he had to put some gas on top of the Pod filters. so i wouldnt buy it and the guy returned home with his shee, really angry

where i live its VERY hard to get boring done, if they do it im scared its not as good as the US, or as "jeff at FAST" lol. thats exactly why i need that "Band-aid" as i was planning on a cool head anyhow tbh. would it like make it any better, as i asked in my question?

so your saying, the stock bore gets larger from wear etc? never knew that , good to know. and if i get only hone and pistons, meaning its most probably bigger pistons just from that hone, id be getting new pistons ey? if i posted pics of the cylinder, could you guys tell if it needs boring?

heya, not gonna get into alot of details, but i should be getting a shee by tomorow, i rode it etc seemed nice, ill explain more later as i gotta go pretty soon. i couldnt comp test it, but ill have a compression tester after 2 weeks or so ( this would be after i bought it) lets say that i bought the shee, and 2 weeks later, i comp test and i get about 80-100 psi, which is abit low. which kinda means the piston wrings are abit worn, so by getting a cool head with about 21 or 22 cc domes, it would raise to about like 130 ish plus or minus, now by doing this, its okay right? theres nothing wrong with adding a cool head with like 21 or 22 domes, which is more comp than stock head, whilst having a stock of 80-100 psi? there's nothing wrong with that yeah? which means im getting a cool head with higher comp instead of rebuilding it to naturally get its normal comp back up without the cool head, understand what im trying to say?

heya, quick question about cylinder boring, lets say i got a stock banshee cylinder, 64mm, and i want to get it bored, i take it to this mechanic place next door who claim they can bore cylinders. lets say that they inspect it and tell me it needs "0.20 over". now, in order to bore, you dont need a new sleeve right? i dont really know exactly how cylinders are, but when they bore, they "remove metal" and make a bigger hole on the current sleeve it has, then its good to go? all i need is a "0.20" over piston, correct? also, something else, how many more mm is each 0.10 over, so how much is 0.10 over in mm and 0.30 over lets say in mm?

how is it 59.92? if stock is 64.00? type?

is it me or does that clutch cover look loose, and looks like its moving?

heya, got just a few things for sale. What i have with me now are 2 sets of brand new V force reed replacement petals. in each set there is 4 , double petals. 2 on the inside, and 2 on the outside ofc. they are brand new never been used, each set normally retails for $59.95. also got 1 carb :S (not a set) its a 28mm Oko (CPW) carb, brand new. also MIGHT have some rear spacers, which is like a bigger axle, but they attach to your rear hubs, its 2 inches on each side. so you get 4 inches wider on the rear. they normally retail for about $100. these are used. a small problem is i live in the middle east, so shipping wont be easy, thats why im selling small, and light parts. so it would be about 5-10 for the petals, and not more than 20 for the carb and spacers. but we can figure something out. i also would not mind trading for some things, like maybe a coolhead or maybe a set of V-force 3 reeds ( the reed cage with petals), or a top end rebuild kit etc.

Do a starting bid of 1200, no reserve, and buy it now at 1450. it will sell. make sure you mention it runs mint and " starts on first kick" lol.

Well, i was just curious to know, all you banshee riders, about your rebuilds. just copy paste this and answer the questions: this is just to help me and maybe others give an idea of how long people ran their shees before rebuilding it. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ How long have you had your banshee?: About how many hours, or how long did you ride the banshee for?: Have you ever rebuilt your topend, if so, was it just pistons + gaskets, and o rings? or with boring it over?and when?: Have you ever rebuilt your bottom end, and when?:

if i had to take a good guess... would be a 27.5 pilot, and a 300 main.